Van's Air Force
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AntiSplatAero
- Thread starter oldman
- Start date
stevemcgirr
Well Known Member
For those using the EZ cool flap, are you happy with its performance? Has it made an appreciable difference in CHT's for you? Is the actuator holding up?
Thanks in advance for any product reviews on this.
Thanks in advance for any product reviews on this.
pyolet
Active Member
The EZ cowl flap(s) work as advertised. I added two to my IO-540 powered -7 and they keep the CHT and oil temps 30+ cooler on climb out. Once leveled off and temps stabilize, I pick up 7 knots once they're closed. They are robust and well engineered, but honestly, one actuator developed an internal wiring issue, which I mentioned previously, and it was replaced speedily without question. Nothing is 100% but ASA comes pretty darn close.
Also I simply glued mine into the cowl with Hysol E20NS...no rivets without any issues. Just my $.02 as I have no affiliation with them other than being a happy customer. Woody.
Also I simply glued mine into the cowl with Hysol E20NS...no rivets without any issues. Just my $.02 as I have no affiliation with them other than being a happy customer. Woody.
stevemcgirr
Well Known Member
Thanks. I'm working through the usual suspects list of fixes for high CHTs on #4 and to a lesser extent #2. I may be headed for the cowl flap option.
I too have a single cowl flap on the left side on my -9A. Its bolted in and super easy to service. Allen has been very helpful and support super speedy.
snopercod
Well Known Member
I need one of those! An open-end wrench just doesn't cut it. Unfortunately, they're "Out of Stock". The last time I installed a filter, like a fool I used motor oil on the gasket rather than DC-4. I'll never make that mistake again.
hawkeyestof
Well Known Member
super customer service
I had a questionable warranty claim. Anti-splat sent new bearing overnight.
I had a questionable warranty claim. Anti-splat sent new bearing overnight.
sirlegin
Well Known Member
Almost 14 MOD experiences needed
I too have purchased from Antisplat and am well pleased.
I want to hear from those that have installed the almost 14 kit to see what the reaction is. Does it really make the plane bigger as far as shoulder to shoulder occupant relief and can you still see ok through the windshield etc? are there any negatives?
Thanks
I too have purchased from Antisplat and am well pleased.
I want to hear from those that have installed the almost 14 kit to see what the reaction is. Does it really make the plane bigger as far as shoulder to shoulder occupant relief and can you still see ok through the windshield etc? are there any negatives?
Thanks
AntiSplat
I've installed two of the cowl flaps. Easy, clean install. They certainly help but I still have CHT #4 getting too hot on climbout. It was much worse before the install. I also installed their stainless steel vertical and horizontal stabilizer mod as a preventative measure. I, too, like their stuff.
I've installed two of the cowl flaps. Easy, clean install. They certainly help but I still have CHT #4 getting too hot on climbout. It was much worse before the install. I also installed their stainless steel vertical and horizontal stabilizer mod as a preventative measure. I, too, like their stuff.
I installed the RV 14 mod on my RV9. I am 5-11 and use the rear most line of hinges for the seat back bottom. I also have my rudder pedals in the furtherest position forward. I use the hinged seat back support engaged into the cross member. This configuration gives me the most comfortable seating and control position. I am sure others might not like this setup like this but it works well for me. By using the seat back support I basically have the same seat back placement as the Van's setup when not utilizing the support and having the seat back rest on the Van's cross member.
After I installed the mod, which was easy peasy, I tried letting the seat back rest on the new cross member but found it not to be my liking. I felt like a low rider and could no longer see over the cowl in the flare. I also made the aluminum strips that the seat back support engages into 1 1/2" longer on each end and installed a couple of extra rivets. This made the seat back a bit more stable when getting in or out and pushing on the top seat back corner.
I would do this mod again in a heartbeat as with the removal of the canopy and a few fasteners you have unimpeded access to the whole cabin area. This is great when doing a condition inspection or working under the panel especially if you are a big old guy like me.
Alan has great well engineered stuff. I have bought several items from him but my best purchase yet is the wrench he devised for the constant speed prop install. What a jewel!!!!
After I installed the mod, which was easy peasy, I tried letting the seat back rest on the new cross member but found it not to be my liking. I felt like a low rider and could no longer see over the cowl in the flare. I also made the aluminum strips that the seat back support engages into 1 1/2" longer on each end and installed a couple of extra rivets. This made the seat back a bit more stable when getting in or out and pushing on the top seat back corner.
I would do this mod again in a heartbeat as with the removal of the canopy and a few fasteners you have unimpeded access to the whole cabin area. This is great when doing a condition inspection or working under the panel especially if you are a big old guy like me.
Alan has great well engineered stuff. I have bought several items from him but my best purchase yet is the wrench he devised for the constant speed prop install. What a jewel!!!!
The mod does not change the shoulder width measurement. It essentially allows the seatback to recline farther, which moves your chest further back from the panel, and also gives you a bit more headroom.
While that doesn't sound like much, it makes a huge difference for me.
PerfTech
Well Known Member
.....The "Almost a 14 Seat Mod" actually doe's increase shoulder room, as you can put one seat forward and one back thus offsetting the occupants shoulders
about 2.5" each. This extra five or so inches is really nice when on long cross country flights.....
....Thank you all for the great reviews. Allan
jim etcheverry
Active Member
What am I missing
allan , I have bought 5 item from you all great. Saw this thread about 14 seat mod. so I went to you web site and could not find it?? What am I missing. Thank Jim
allan , I have bought 5 item from you all great. Saw this thread about 14 seat mod. so I went to you web site and could not find it?? What am I missing. Thank Jim
I need one of those! An open-end wrench just doesn't cut it. Unfortunately, they're "Out of Stock". The last time I installed a filter, like a fool I used motor oil on the gasket rather than DC-4. I'll never make that mistake again.
This fool (me) has used the same oil that will go in the motor, on the gasket for over 51 years, and have NEVER had a problem removing the filter with a filter band wrench...........
Maybe you are over torquing the filter.
agree, in my opinion I don't believe you should introduce foreign matl's to the lube system.
snopercod
Well Known Member
When installing an oil filter in an automobile, I always tightened them until they made contact plus 1/4 turn. I never had one leak, and they were always easy to remove - even though I had used motor oil on the gasket. Now these spin-on Tempest filters on my plane specify 17 ft.lbs of torque, which seems WAY to tight to me but that's what I have been doing. When I asked the A&P at my local maintenance shop why my filter was difficult to remove, he told me "The oil gets hot and sticks. That won't happen if you use DC-4". We'll see...
In the meantime, I bought myself an AntiSplatAero filter wrench from Aircraft Spruce. That should help.
snopercod
Well Known Member
That makes a lot of sense, but in doing a little Internet research, Lycoming (and many others) recommends using DC-4 on the filter gaskets. I found that information in Lycoming SSP-885-1 which is their 1988 instruction for replacing an old screen-type filter with a spin-on filter. They also say, "Always use a six point socket when installing the filter". I used a crow-foot, which worked fine when installing but not removing. Live and learn...
I use DC-4, never had a problem, torquing to the manufacturer's specs ...
flyboy1963
Well Known Member
hmmmmm intersting
the ACS data sheet link for DC-4
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/pdf/09-27700.pdf
interesting reading.
ok to use with a and b, but not c.
for something designed as a dielectric sealant, curious that Lyc would spec it as a gasket lube....go figure.
the ACS data sheet link for DC-4
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/pdf/09-27700.pdf
interesting reading.
ok to use with a and b, but not c.
for something designed as a dielectric sealant, curious that Lyc would spec it as a gasket lube....go figure.
Been chasing high CHT's. Internal engine timing, timing, fuel flow, baffling of all sorts with little appreciable changes. I've been looking at the EZ cool. They state 25% cooler on the video. That would get me in the 380 range, and I would be so happy after all of the other fixes.
Does anyone have any numbers?
Does anyone have any numbers?
