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  #251  
Old 07-17-2016, 10:59 PM
ppilotmike's Avatar
ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
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Default Measure Twice, Cut Once..

..or measure a bunch of times, then cut. Looking good, Dave!
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Mike Rettig
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RV-10 (41PX Reserved) Fuselage
F-14 (Pedal Plane - Daughter's Project) "Flying"
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  #252  
Old 07-18-2016, 09:17 AM
RussellT RussellT is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Albany Western Australia
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Sooner or later you just have to put the measure down and pick up the drill and make a hole, or a cut, or a bend!
I think I bent mine where you have, (4" up on drawing #21) then with taking and using the added measurements from the firewall back to the top of F305 (turtledeck) I find that it leans back just slightly from the fuselage line of F305. That's where I drilled it, looks fine to me... I am loving building this thing.

Russell
[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
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  #253  
Old 07-18-2016, 11:20 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Well, Sen. Everett Dirkson might have said, "A billion here, a billion there, pretty soon you're talking real money."

This wasn't money but just a lot of careful adjusting. For some reason the spar bulkhead needed that.

A little tweak here,
a little tweak there...
it adds up.

As you know, I'm not real good at this. Sure don't want to screw it up, especially that part of it.

Dave

Last edited by David Paule : 07-18-2016 at 12:30 PM.
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  #254  
Old 07-18-2016, 08:24 PM
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KatieB KatieB is offline
 
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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I think it helps to look at the -3 as something that grows organically or artistically, not necessarily with mathematical, repeatable precision. Not to say my measurements aren't spot-on, but I built my parts to fit the existing parts, not necessarily the plans. Should turn out ok.
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  #255  
Old 07-26-2016, 12:43 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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I ordered another dozen #40 drill bits and half a dozen #30 bits a few days ago. When I bought this kit I ordered a bunch of these from an otherwise reliable vendor and those bits were not so good. A competitor sent me some samples and I've been buying bits from them since.

Made the F-315 outboard seat ribs. These have that 1 1/4" strip of .025 in the saddle. The plans and one of the builder's logs show that it should be under the rib flange. Most of the other builders seem to rivet it to the top of the flange. Don't know if it'll be a gotcha later, but I riveted them to the top, too.

These seat ribs fit reasonably well except for the rear flange, which I cut off and replaced by an angle.



With these in place, the rear spar was mostly in position. Some more side to side tweaking and it is.

That let me trial-fit the F-314 intermediate seat ribs, shown on the next photos. These particular seat ribs come with a front flange that needs to be trimmed off completely - these ribs rivet to the .063 angles riveted to the spar bulkhead. The plans don't hint of it, but the webs above and below the angle that's riveted to the F-303 spar bulkhead need to be cut away so that the spar splice plates can be inserted later. If you don't do this now you'll be in a bind when you assemble the plane.



The back of these ribs also needs some trimming to clear the rear spar carry-through. I haven't decided yet if I should replace these rear flanges too. In this photo, the near rib is the intermediate F-314 rib and the far one is the outer F-315 rib.



I haven't fit the center F-313 rib yet but the short F-304 bulkhead is trial-fit in position.



The F-304 bulkhead's fore/aft position isn't dimensioned in the plans, but it seems to fit best about where it's supposed to go, more or less. The heavy angle on the belly is merely a skin reference which I'll use for positioning the control mixer bearing mount, F-340. I made those parts but have some issues with them which I'll discuss later.

There are a few other missing parts, too, aren't there?

Those rear-spar positioning tools I made earlier show up in several of these pictures, clamped to the wood spar simulator.



Yesterday was Oshkosh Monday and for a while I was listening to the Fisk feed while I worked. Reminded me of flying that, which I did a number of times before I quit going. That approach was fun, about as much fun as an approach to some of the back-country airstrips.

Another photo hosting site has these copies:
Here,
Here,
Here,
Here,
And here.

Dave
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  #256  
Old 07-28-2016, 07:41 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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I'm building up the seat ribs.

In this photo, the important thing are those disks on the flange. These are magnets, strong rare-earth ones. They do a decent job of holding the rib flange to the web of the F-304 bulkhead. They are handy thing to have, don't use them often, but they're effective when I do. There are other magnets of the far side.



I was going to drill the holes for attaching the bearings to the mixer and found that on mine, the mixer is mis-cut. The markings show where the hole is supposed to go. I moved it slightly, maintaining the same edge distance as the plans call for. Just a head's up here on this one.



The mixer itself is 9 5/16 wide. The space for it is slightly more than 10 inches. Because the intermediate F-314 seat ribs have some beads on the lightening holes, which you can see in the next photo, the angle brackets don't rest against the webs outside of the space. They do fit reasonably well (which means that they kinda fit) inside, but then there's no room for those triangular flanges.

The brackets themselves are long enough to pick up both the fasteners to that short bulkhead, the F-304 one which is still in blue, and the .063 angles which are riveted to the F-303 spar bulkhead on the right. However, there's another bead for the next lightening hole to the left which takes up much of this space at that end of the bracket. This is still in progress.



Those rectangular tubes above the spar simulator are nothing more than spacers. My simulator came out a little shallow in the center area, my fault, and these keep the flanges the right distance apart. Ugly, aren't they?

The photos are also hosted here, here and here.

Dave
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  #257  
Old 07-29-2016, 12:36 AM
RussellT RussellT is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Albany Western Australia
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Here is what I did Dave, cut and flattened the circular flange. I did put the splice plates in before riveting all this section together too.

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #258  
Old 07-29-2016, 08:27 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Russell, how did you flatten the flanges?

And please tell us about the filler inside the hole, too.

I don't think I'll do either of those here but I'd like to know how you did them.

Thanks,

Dave
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  #259  
Old 07-29-2016, 12:49 PM
RussellT RussellT is offline
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Albany Western Australia
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Dave, The ribs came without the lightening holes in them so I just removed the bottom portion then tapped the flange down with a soft blow hammer. It went down smooth and had no adverse effects on the rib. At least I think thats how I did it, was a while ago now... My thinking was most likely to give the mixer bracket/bearing more support, probably doesn't make any difference.
Russell
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  #260  
Old 07-29-2016, 03:33 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussellT View Post
Dave, The ribs came without the lightening holes in them....
Oh, yeah, that's right, I forgot. I'd cut them out so long ago that slipped my mind. A good example of the two rules of building RV-3s:

1. Do stuff in advance because you never know what will prevent doing them in the future.

2. Don't do anything until you can't proceed without it, because otherwise it'll interfere with something down the road.

I've decided that I'm getting a bit ahead of where I should be, and will go back to this after I get the bellcrank in. That way I can have the pushrod in and check clearances as I work.

Dave
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