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  #31  
Old 01-15-2020, 07:32 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scsmith View Post
Well, I put together an engine dryer along the lines of the suggestions here.

1 gallon jug of silica gel, with a air tool filter on the outlet side.
Aquarium air pump - the 60-gallon size, with two outlets. I tee'ed the outlets together to a single line, blowing into the bottom of the jug of silica gel.

The pump can not develop enough pressure to overcome the pressure loss going thru the bed of silica gel. Essentially no flow through it, especially after adding 8 ft of 1/4 vinyl tubing to run up to the dip stick tube.

Anyone have any better ideas for a low cost, simple air pump?
I am not sure what you mean by "low cost" but I am using this pump and it is working really nice. It takes about 5-10 minutes max to bring the humidity to 6% from 55-60% that I typically see after the engine shut down.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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  #32  
Old 01-15-2020, 07:36 PM
jeffw@sc47's Avatar
jeffw@sc47 jeffw@sc47 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Simpsonville, SC (SC47)
Posts: 271
Default automatic crankcase dryer kit

http://www.barkeraircraft.com/Engine-dryer-kit.html

I built one of these dryer kits and have used it on my Bellanca Cruisair for the past 6 years, it has worked great. Had to replace the desiccant dryer light bulb one time. It is 'automatic' in that when the desiccant gets to around 30% saturated, the air circulation pump shuts off, a silica gel container vent port opens and an immersed light bulb turns on to dry out the gel, then the valve closes and the pump starts again. During high humidity days I guess that it cycles maybe twice a day.

The kit was relatively easy to build. Recommend that you lay everything out and get a clear picture of the kit build and where you see possible gotcha's and figure out how to avoid do-overs.

I did phone Barker and he was helpful with some direction based on my questions.
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  #33  
Old 01-15-2020, 07:44 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 5,188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scsmith View Post
Well, I put together an engine dryer along the lines of the suggestions here.

1 gallon jug of silica gel, with a air tool filter on the outlet side.
Aquarium air pump - the 60-gallon size, with two outlets. I tee'ed the outlets together to a single line, blowing into the bottom of the jug of silica gel.

The pump can not develop enough pressure to overcome the pressure loss going thru the bed of silica gel. Essentially no flow through it, especially after adding 8 ft of 1/4 vinyl tubing to run up to the dip stick tube.

Anyone have any better ideas for a low cost, simple air pump?
I have made a few of these, what bead size and flow area do you have for the silca gel? These pumps do have to pump air to the bottom of an aquarium so have some pressure capability. You only really need about 2 l/min. After some discussion we can talk pumps, but the better pumps are much higher price.

Oh - -just to add, it would be better to use 3/8" tubing, but my 10 friend uses 1/4" ID and it works fine too.
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Last edited by BillL : 01-15-2020 at 07:47 PM.
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  #34  
Old 01-15-2020, 08:00 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,299
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Mehrdad, that looks like a great pump. A bit pricey, but no doubt it will work well.

BillL, I just put ports into a 1-gallon jug of gel beads. One port in the cap, and one in the side of the jug about 2" up from the bottom. The beads are about 1/10" diameter on average, some bigger. One difference between what I tried and what is shown in pictures by TShort on a different thread is that he sucked through the silica jug, while I am trying to blow through it. I can not feel any suction at all on the inlet port on the Tetra Whisper 60. Again, I sealed the case inlet with calk and tapped a 1/8NPT port into the case.
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  #35  
Old 01-28-2020, 08:34 AM
Aviaman Aviaman is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 74
Default Engine Dehumidifier

I just built a prototype of my own design. Unlike most, I am not doing it closed loop. Iíll explain why. First, itís difficult to connect to the breather tube, which rests on an exhaust pipe. And I dont want to alter that. But it is almost inaccessible, practically speaking itís a big hassle. OK, what about losing the advantage of closed loop ? The advantage of closed loop is touted as getting a lower final humidity, and not needing to rejuvenate the silica as often. I addressed this by using a 10 ft long 3/4Ē ID clear tubing as the Silica container.
I coil it up for compactness. The idea is that the very long length amounts to a series of successive reductions in humidity. Suppose the first ft lowers humidity by 10%. And the next ft lowers THAT another 10%, and so on. What this amounts to is that the humidity at each stage is .90 times the previous stage. So the final humidity would be (0.9)^10=.35. This is an example, not necessarily the actual numbers. And there are other subtle complications to this, but we will not get into that. In running this, it worked where the upstream blue changed to pink, progressively as time accumulated. I ran 24 hrs continuously to see how fast the silica would change color. About 1.5 ft of upstream silica had changed after that time. However in actual use, I am using a timer to turn this on and off automatically. I have a timer that has 24 selections, each allowing a 1/2 hr on period. Supposing that I set 4 periods of 1/2 hr duration per day, thatís 2 hrs a day. Based on the 24 hr experiment, it would be many days before rejuvenation would be required. Probably weeks. So I think this accomplishes a simplification over closed loop, while retaining its advantages.
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  #36  
Old 01-28-2020, 09:23 AM
Pilot135pd's Avatar
Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Ben Wheeler, TX
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviaman View Post
I just built a prototype of my own design. Unlike most, I am not doing it closed loop. I’ll explain why. First, it’s difficult to connect to the breather tube, which rests on an exhaust pipe. And I dont want to alter that. But it is almost inaccessible, practically speaking it’s a big hassle. OK, what about losing the advantage of closed loop ? The advantage of closed loop is touted as getting a lower final humidity, and not needing to rejuvenate the silica as often. I addressed this by using a 10 ft long 3/4” ID clear tubing as the Silica container.
I coil it up for compactness. The idea is that the very long length amounts to a series of successive reductions in humidity. Suppose the first ft lowers humidity by 10%. And the next ft lowers THAT another 10%, and so on. What this amounts to is that the humidity at each stage is .90 times the previous stage. So the final humidity would be (0.9)^10=.35. This is an example, not necessarily the actual numbers. And there are other subtle complications to this, but we will not get into that. In running this, it worked where the upstream blue changed to pink, progressively as time accumulated. I ran 24 hrs continuously to see how fast the silica would change color. About 1.5 ft of upstream silica had changed after that time. However in actual use, I am using a timer to turn this on and off automatically. I have a timer that has 24 selections, each allowing a 1/2 hr on period. Supposing that I set 4 periods of 1/2 hr duration per day, that’s 2 hrs a day. Based on the 24 hr experiment, it would be many days before rejuvenation would be required. Probably weeks. So I think this accomplishes a simplification over closed loop, while retaining its advantages.
I like your setup, simple to make and not many moving parts or sensors and even if anyone says it's not efficient it's still better than not doing anything for those times I can't go out and fly for a while ! Do you have pictures to complete my mental image of what you did? If you can't post a picture could you PM or email it to me? Thank you !!
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