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  #11  
Old 03-18-2017, 10:37 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry DeCamp View Post
Dan A,
What do you use to thin West Epoxy with ? Doesn't an evaporating solvent pose the same pinhole outgas recurrence as solvent borne high fill primer Re : Dan Hortons comments. Not flaming, looking to learn cause I need a better way on my current project..Larry
Epoxy can be thinned with lacquer thinner or acetone. I wouldn't do that in a structural situation without tech data from the manufacturer. As a pinhole filler, it shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the amount of thinner to a relatively small amount (<10% for sure).

That said, I've found that as a pinhole filler, you can squeegee in normal epoxy - no need to thin it.
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  #12  
Old 03-18-2017, 11:36 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
That said, I've found that as a pinhole filler, you can squeegee in normal epoxy - no need to thin it.
Thinner - - EEEEk

+1, I took a micro mix with fast hardener and used a hard rubber, sharp edged squeege, raked both directions to fill the holes. Let harden, only light sanding needed.

Then did the same with neat resin, slow hardener, and got all off that I could to seal but not have to spend any time resanding. Scuffed with red scotchbrite and primed.

The hard way is to lay on the resin thick and have to sand it back to smooth. Using a squeege avoids that. Some use a thin steel one, but that did not work for me with the small area and contours of the transition on the canopy.
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  #13  
Old 03-18-2017, 11:56 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chattin35 View Post
Anyone use Smooth Prime on the canopy fairing? Section 5 of the manual mentions it for the cowling.
I used Smooth Prime on the RV-10 as my Lancair IV neighbor swears by it. Never again. It more than doubled the work.

Carl
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2017, 10:01 AM
broken1234 broken1234 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Dyer, TN
Posts: 68
Smile

Carl,
I'll bet I know your Dogwood neighbor... he loves that Smooth Prime... but I agree with you...
Smooth prime is simple, and usually trouble free for inexperienced users, but it's not the most efficient product out there...

Tell Bill that Brad said hello ;-)

Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan, TN
731-686-3610
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  #15  
Old 03-28-2017, 08:43 AM
Chattin35 Chattin35 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 238
Default Smooth Prime Follow up

After conflicting opinions, I decided to stick with Van's recommendation and use Smooth Prime to protect the canopy fairing as was happy with the results. Being water based was a bonus too.

I just rolled it on thick (3-4 coats) with a mini paint roller, let harden overnight, and sanded smooth with 400 grit sand paper the next morning.

It's probably not ready for that Oshkosh winning paint scheme. But, I plan to fly for a couple years unpainted, anyway. So, my goal was simply to cover the scuffed aluminum and protect the canopy fairing from UV.

Here's a pic.

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  #16  
Old 03-28-2017, 09:59 AM
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dave4754 dave4754 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 478
Default Nicely Done

I am going to be using my West Systems epoxy to correct a cowling mistake and will try to thin it down and use it this weekend.

If I ever manage to figure out this picture thingee on here I will post the results.

Dave
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  #17  
Old 10-05-2018, 04:36 PM
psalys psalys is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Eugene
Posts: 34
Default What is an "epoxy wipe"?

Hi Dan.

Three years ago you wrote:

"I prefer an epoxy wipe, as there is no shrinkage during cure, no long term
chemical or environmental issues, and it's a one-shot application."

I don't know what an "epoxy wipe" means.

I built my RV-12 canopy fairing with West Systems and am now looking for a "filler primer" to blend the side edge into the metal. Van's suggest PolyFiber UV Smooth Prime but there are mixed opinions about that here.

Also, I'm looking for a primer for the whole fiberglass fairing for UV protection and a gray primer look until I have it painted. Would you recommend specific products? There are so many out there, it is hard for a newbie to pick.

thanks,
Patrick
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  #18  
Old 10-05-2018, 07:08 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psalys View Post
Hi Dan.

Three years ago you wrote:
"I prefer an epoxy wipe, as there is no shrinkage during cure, no long term
chemical or environmental issues, and it's a one-shot application."
I don't know what an "epoxy wipe" means.
I built my RV-12 canopy fairing with West Systems and am now looking for a "filler primer" to blend the side edge into the metal. Van's suggest PolyFiber UV Smooth Prime but there are mixed opinions about that here.
Also, I'm looking for a primer for the whole fiberglass fairing for UV protection and a gray primer look until I have it painted. Would you recommend specific products? There are so many out there, it is hard for a newbie to pick.
A epoxy wipe is just what it sounds like. Use a squeegee or an old key card or similar. Slop some mixed epoxy on the surface, then wipe back and forth as desired, with the goal of squeezing it down into pinholes, divots and flaws. Then use the squeegee to remove the excess epoxy. Just blade it off the edge.

If desired, allow it to cure to the point where it can't be moved, and add another coat, same procedure. How many coats depends on the contour quality of the underlying glass work. Moldless foam core composite might take several, while one good coat is might be enough for a Vans wheel pant.

Do not thin the epoxy. If you want a low viscosity epoxy, buy a low viscosity epoxy. This is 2018. Ad hoc chemistry is dumb.

Some years ago I started using a cheap paint roller to finish the job. It leaves a nice orange peel finish when cured, which makes a great sanding guide. That's a big plus, because you'll want to sand it smooth, but you absolutely don't want to sand through into the underlying fiberglass. Doing so tends to open new pinholes. Perfect would be an epoxy skin a few mils thick.

The standard "cover it until I get to the paint shop" is two coats of any good epoxy primer. I use PPG DPLF, but recommend you make a friend at your local auto paint supply house. If they are friendly and helpful, go with whatever brand they represent...they know it well.

See this thread; first example is a step by step.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=22931
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  #19  
Old 10-05-2018, 07:26 PM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Medford, NJ USA
Posts: 248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Do not thin the epoxy. If you want a low viscosity epoxy, buy a low viscosity epoxy. This is 2018. Ad hoc chemistry is dumb.
Do you have a recommendation for a low viscosity epoxy?
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  #20  
Old 10-05-2018, 07:45 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV10Pilot View Post
Do you have a recommendation for a low viscosity epoxy?
You can slightly warm the West epoxy. A few degrees will help. Use slow hardener...
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