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New Builder RV-12iS

David Fuchs

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I ordered my kit, Empennage/Tailcone on 28 November and I am now in the Tool purchase stage. One question that I have please:

Do I need a Rivet Gun,

Thank You
 
I ordered my kit, Empennage/Tailcone on 28 November and I am now in the Tool purchase stage. One question that I have please:

Do I need a Rivet Gun,

Thank You

No, but you will need a pneumatic rivet puller, a hand rivet puller (PRP26A is very good), and a hand rivet squeezer Cleaveland Mainsqueeze is a popular choice, but Tatco is also good. Have a look at the Cleaveland and Isham RV-12 tool Kits
 
Pneumatic squeezer

No, but you will need a pneumatic rivet puller, a hand rivet puller (PRP26A is very good), and a hand rivet squeezer Cleaveland Mainsqueeze is a popular choice, but Tatco is also good. Have a look at the Cleaveland and Isham RV-12 tool Kits
And a pneumatic squeezer, though not necessary, sure makes the work flow faster. I've used mine a fair amount already just in the VS on my -12iS.
 
agreed. Early on I was being cheap and skipped a pneumatic squeezer.. Eventually I broke down and bought a used one from e-Bay.. I kicked myself in the butt for not having bought it earlier.

When you put the 1 million rivets in the tail's rear bulkhead, you'll be kicking yourself in the butt too.

and agreed on the PRP26A rivet puller.. and of course a pneumatic blind rivet puller too.. I got a blue one from Harbor Freight.. good enough.

Add a #17 or #19 drill bit to the tool list (i forget which.. whichever one is missing from the list). Also a #6 screw dimple die set (if you'll be installing landing lights).
 
pneumatics work good too...

Instead of a pneumatic puller, you may consider the Milwaukee 12v puller. Best tool I purchased this year. No hoses to get in the way and will pull with only 1 squeeze where most pneumatics take 2 or more due to a short stroke.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...pE7yTq9Mc0GQ4tl0v7kaAjR7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Not to take anything away from the 12v pullers...If your pneumatic does not pull in one stroke, check the setup/adjustment and consider higher air pressure. My pneumatic purchased from Cleaveland worked just fine. Would have been nice to "lose" the hose once in a while though, and depending on your situation easier to rivet without having a hose draped all over the place. All together now...Who would miss the noise of a compressor? <crickets>
You would still need one occasionally for the driven rivets and...oh, the tires!
 
Not to take anything away from the 12v pullers...If your pneumatic does not pull in one stroke, check the setup/adjustment and consider higher air pressure. My pneumatic purchased from Cleaveland worked just fine. Would have been nice to "lose" the hose once in a while though, and depending on your situation easier to rivet without having a hose draped all over the place. All together now...Who would miss the noise of a compressor? <crickets>
You would still need one occasionally for the driven rivets and...oh, the tires!

Didn’t know the pneumatic pullers were adjustable, I’ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.
 
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Make sure there is adequate oil level in the reservoir. Mine stops pulling in one shot when the oil is low.
 
things to check...

Didn?t know the pneumatic pullers we?re adjustable, I?ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.

Yes, check the user's manual first. Probably needs disassembly and cleaning. the pulling "teeth" get clogged up with slivers and flakes from the mandrels. After cleaning, I learned to use only very light oil or a "dry lube" in the pulling head. Anything heavier holds the flakes and dust to accumulate faster. The user guide should have instructions to adjust the stroke, but first check the oil level. The tool can't give you a full stroke if the oil is low. Also, seems like 50-60 lbs pressure has been enough to pull completely without the thing jumping when the mandrel breaks loose.
so...1) clean it, 2)check the oil, 3) lower the pressure, then 4) if necessary adjust the stroke mechanism.
Best of Luck!
Dave
 
Make sure there is adequate oil level in the reservoir. Mine stops pulling in one shot when the oil is low.
Mine, too. Once I added hydraulic jack oil, it workd fine again.

(Now all I need to do is figure out how to get it to always release the stems after pulling a rivet. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.) :(
 
Didn?t know the pneumatic pullers were adjustable, I?ll check the manual. Mine requires a second trigger pull about half the time. Already running it at 90 psi.

Randy,
High pressure is not needed.
The pressure used has no correlation to how much stroke the tool has on each pull cycle.
We use 50-55 PSI.
It does a much smoother pull and doesn't cause the abrupt jump that can cause accidental damage to a skin if you bump it with the tool (especially helpful when letting inexperienced people help with riveting).
 
(Now all I need to do is figure out how to get it to always release the stems after pulling a rivet. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.) :(

That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).
 
That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).

Thanks, Scott!
 
pneumatic puller adjustments?

Randy,
High pressure is not needed.
The pressure used has no correlation to how much stroke the tool has on each pull cycle.
We use 50-55 PSI. It does a much smoother pull and doesn't cause the abrupt jump that can cause accidental damage to a skin if you bump it with the tool (especially helpful when letting inexperienced people help with riveting).
Great, will try that this weekend, thanks Scott!

That is another adjustment
If you take it apart and very slightly lengthen the part that has the jaws on it, the jaws will be forced open a little more when it is extended.
If the tip on the tool unthreads slightly, it will cause the same problem because the jaws don't get forced onto the tip quite as far (the tapered cone on the inside of the tip is what spreads the jaws open).
Is there any adjustment to lengthen the stroke a bit so that it finishes the pull every time rather than half the time in my case?
 
Great, will try that this weekend, thanks Scott!


Is there any adjustment to lengthen the stroke a bit so that it finishes the pull every time rather than half the time in my case?

As some one else mentioned, it is usually related to the hydraulic fluid level or issue with air in the hyd. system.
The tools are a combination pneumatic and hydraulic.
Failure to fully cycle seems to usually be an issue with the hyd. portion of the system.
 
Hi David,

One thing that is missing from the recommended tool list or was is a #20 drill bit and #20 cleco's (about 10 needed). These are required for the horizontal stabilizer and specifically attaching the control horns.

Rob
 
That battery powered rivet puller looks pretty nice.

Any more pireps on that system? Too heavy? same? just right?

Do I even need a compressor if I use that?

Thx

Dennis
 
That battery powered rivet puller looks pretty nice.

Any more pireps on that system? Too heavy? same? just right?

Do I even need a compressor if I use that?

Thx

Dennis
I bought one and use it alternately with m pneumatic unit. The Milwaukee battery powered unit is just a bit lighter, but not having to fight with the air hose makes it more maneuverable. The stroke is slower since it is powered by an electric motor but I don't think that slows productivity much.

To be clear we are referring to the Milwaukee model #2550-20, HERE is link. It is part of their M12 system and I bought a drill that uses the same batteries to go with it, I'm pleased with them both!
 
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