Rudder Trailing Edge

Greetings,

I just finished riveting the rudder trailing edge and thought I'd pass some info along. I pretty much followed the plans - they said you could use Proseal or "a good epoxy" along with an aluminum angle to glue the edge together to keep it straight prior to riveting. I opted for JB Weld as I had used it before on a number of other projects and others have said that it worked well on the TE. After riveting according to plans, the edge came out "absolutely perfect".... then I picked the rudder up and heard something chinking around inside. I shook it and managed to shake some - actually quite a few - small broken pieces of JB Weld epoxy from it. It seemed that the impact of the rivet gun shattered some of the hardened epoxy.

It's probably not a big deal as I think the epoxy/Proseal is intended only to keep the edge straight for riveting, but IF I were to ever build another rudder, I would opt for Proseal. I haven't had the pleasure of using it yet, but I assume it's maybe a little more pliable when fully cured and not brittle like the JB Weld.

Greg
San Diego

I opted for the epoxy route and my rudder came out very, very straight as well. I am pleased with the results. Haven't heard any rattling inside so the epoxy stayed put.

I used 30 min stuff - the kind I use on my RC airplanes.

i used a scotch-brand spray adhesive (i think it was #90). i read about it
on the yahoo list, way back a year or so ago. anyway, it worked fine,
was easy to apply, cured overnight, and no real mess.

john

I used

I used nadda, zippo, nothing and I got a straight line on mine.
I guess I got lucky.

Are most people dabbing some proseal on the ends of the stiffeners to solve the skin cracking problem some have experience on the rudders with the riveted trailing edges--or is that no longer an issue?

Steve

?

Eeeek. I'll bet I'll find out after a few years of flying..