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  #11  
Old 01-09-2018, 04:16 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL Pilot View Post
I have seen some builder logs where only the mating surfaces are coated. But that's a subject probably for the primer Wars ;-) I don't have an opinion on it yet just the input.
I have no interest in the primer wars, thankfully. It probably makes no appreciable difference whether I prime the mating surfaces of the spars and spar doublers or just the exposed surfaces after mating the parts, but as long as it's not a thickness concern where two layers of primer cause the vertical stabilizer not to fit onto the airframe, I'll be okay.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2018, 06:08 PM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
 
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Actually if you are going to prime I believe that you want the mating surfaces primed first vs just the exposed surfaces. I did see some pictures of mating surfaces that were not primed that had hidden corrosion but do not remember where I saw that. The gist of that subject was with two surfaces held together there is more opportunity for moisture to not be able to dry out. hence the possibility of corrosion. On the flip side its all Alclad aluminum is coated.

This is the answer I got from vans aircraft about QBs

The QBs are primed, then assembled. It would not make any sense to do it the other way as there would be no primer between mated parts.

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  #13  
Old 01-09-2018, 10:34 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL Pilot View Post
Actually if you are going to prime I believe that you want the mating surfaces primed first vs just the exposed surfaces. I did see some pictures of mating surfaces that were not primed that had hidden corrosion but do not remember where I saw that. The gist of that subject was with two surfaces held together there is more opportunity for moisture to not be able to dry out. hence the possibility of corrosion. On the flip side its all Alclad aluminum is coated.

This is the answer I got from vans aircraft about QBs

The QBs are primed, then assembled. It would not make any sense to do it the other way as there would be no primer between mated parts.

That is the understanding I got from the above. Prime, then join.
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2018, 03:38 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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My kit arrived last Friday and my tool collection has started to grow exponentially. I have to make a trip out of town to get a band saw (or figure out how to make the cut referred to below without one) but pretty much everything else is ready to go.

One curiosity I have, which relates to the band saw and to the first few steps of the kit, is this: Why is the first thing you do on this kit drilling a bunch of fresh holes and cutting off a small portion of the front VS spar? Those could clearly have been done by Van's. Is it an intentional move on their part to get you comfortable drilling new holes and cutting metal right on the first day of the build, or is there another reason behind it?
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2018, 04:21 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
One curiosity I have, which relates to the band saw and to the first few steps of the kit, is this: Why is the first thing you do on this kit drilling a bunch of fresh holes and cutting off a small portion of the front VS spar? Those could clearly have been done by Van's. Is it an intentional move on their part to get you comfortable drilling new holes and cutting metal right on the first day of the build, or is there another reason behind it?
Note that the part # is VS-702
That means the origins of the part are the RV-7 kit, so it get used for more than one model.
That requires a small amount of adjustment (and drilling some holes) depending on which model it is being installed on.
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  #16  
Old 01-18-2018, 04:50 PM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Note that the part # is VS-702
That means the origins of the part are the RV-7 kit, so it get used for more than one model.
That requires a small amount of adjustment (and drilling some holes) depending on which model it is being installed on.
Ah, I hadn't thought of that, since the 14 is part of the new part numbering system. I thought it was just for the learnin' and here I got to learn anyhow.
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2018, 09:45 AM
PHXflyer PHXflyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkervaski View Post
Bring on the questions!

In the case of VS-702 "flush aft" means just that, the aft side of the part will have flush rivets.
I'm at the OP's point of construction as well, and your answer answered my own identical question. But I have a follow-on question: The plans say that just 6 of the 10 holes are to be riveted with "flush aft" using AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. The other four holes along the top call for, according to the plans, to be riveted using AN470AD3-3.5 rivets.

I assume those 4 using standard round-head rivets will be riveted in the same direction as the 6 flush rivets, yes? Does it matter? Or is it just good form to rivet all in the same direction?
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2018, 10:22 AM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHXflyer View Post
I'm at the OP's point of construction as well, and your answer answered my own identical question. But I have a follow-on question: The plans say that just 6 of the 10 holes are to be riveted with "flush aft" using AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. The other four holes along the top call for, according to the plans, to be riveted using AN470AD3-3.5 rivets.

I assume those 4 using standard round-head rivets will be riveted in the same direction as the 6 flush rivets, yes? Does it matter? Or is it just good form to rivet all in the same direction?
I don't think it matters, but I did them the same direction because then the nice round manufactured head will be the one visible if you peer between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer, instead of the not-so-nice shop head. (The flush rivets will be covered up by the attachment point to the fuselage, but the AN470's will not.)
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  #19  
Old 02-05-2018, 10:27 AM
PHXflyer PHXflyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
I don't think it matters, but I did them the same direction because then the nice round manufactured head will be the one visible if you peer between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer, instead of the not-so-nice shop head. (The flush rivets will be covered up by the attachment point to the fuselage, but the AN470's will not.)
Thank you, iamtheari! Really appreciate your input.
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  #20  
Old 02-05-2018, 11:41 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHXflyer View Post
I'm at the OP's point of construction as well, and your answer answered my own identical question. But I have a follow-on question: The plans say that just 6 of the 10 holes are to be riveted with "flush aft" using AN426AD3-3.5 rivets. The other four holes along the top call for, according to the plans, to be riveted using AN470AD3-3.5 rivets.

I assume those 4 using standard round-head rivets will be riveted in the same direction as the 6 flush rivets, yes? Does it matter? Or is it just good form to rivet all in the same direction?
The plans try and specify if a specific installation direction of an AN470 rivet is required.
If it doesn't say, it is builders choice.
As a standard practice, it is good to orient the rivet so that the shop head is formed on the thicker material, if there is a difference.
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