Ly-Con has ceramic- coated pistons available in the 10:1 ratio - and others, no doubt... You'll want to do the whole assemblies from the same sourcing, to address the wrist pin strengths, etc.
A true 'top' overhaul includes everything down to the rod bearings, IMHO.
2 things: A. with 10:1, flow porting, fuel injection, EI, etc., they can get your 320 to 200 hp. [and now the flames start - well, the dyno runs don't lie. Period.] B. There is a concurrent parallel thread that points out the more experienced among us tend to stay with more 'stock' configurations, going for more cubics to get the higher hp if necessary. Why? Because that has worked, and we aren't in the business of rebuilding our engines for every race.
Having said that: there are circumstances where the higher compression choices make sense for a longevity- focused engine -- but there ARE operational trade-offs. I wouldn't consider running one without full- boat engine monitoring, including fuel flow and air-fuel ratio... and you won't operate them in exactly the same way as 'stock'. Given the cooling issues demonstrated in the RV community, you have another whole field of 'cooling dynamics' to master.
AND the real key is the 'feedback loop' end of that monitoring system: how much have you studied the subject? It takes years of focus, and learning from the real masters. Operator's choices generate the range from 0 SMOH bone- stocks that are shelled out in 7 hours, to moderately tweaked IO-540s whose major components measure within spec on tear- down after 3600 hrs.
Short version: if you want to climb in, turn the key and go [what i think of as a "consumer" approach] -- DON'T. if you are a techie/ mech type, willing to pay for your choices with pre- study and post - mistakes -- go for it, but get the stuff already proven from somebody who has already built the learning curve.
