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Replacing olf Fuel Valve with Andair?

dmat

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Replacing old Fuel Valve with Andair?

Hi Guys,

I have an old 6A built in the 90's and the fuel valve is starting to leak. I would like to replace it with an andair but they say on their website that the replacement is no longer available.

Anyone know which model I would need to replace my old valve?

Thanks,
D
 
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Not knowing exactly what you have, I will volunteer that a lot of the older fuel valves can be made new with simple replacement of the o rings. The type found in a Piper Cherokee have only 2 O rings and it takes less than 5 minutes to be like new again.

In time the Andair will need new rings also.
 
Thanks F1R, I totally agree, a couple of O-rings would do the trick but I do like the fact that there is positive reinforcement when you lock the andair in place.

I am in the midst of doing a full panel upgrade and the interior parts are all out so I'm just thinking it's easier to upgrade now while I have the plane in pieces.
 
And if anyone has an Andair valve that I need for sale, please PM me.

D
 
Changing from the “tractor valve” to the Andair is one of those things that sound simple, but ends up being a lot more work than you think. You’ll have to remake fuel lines, and figure out the mounting points, all in a confined space that is in an awkward position.

I have an Andair in my -8, and love it....but its been there since day one. When we built our -3, I was going to go Andair, but then remembered that our -6 had been flying for 25+ years with the tractor valve, and it is easy to overhaul, installs per plans, and costs nothing becasue it was in the kit...so we went that way.

I just removed a Duplex Andair from our bush plane and replaced it with a simplex tractor valve I had on hand becasue the engine that ended up on the plane didn’t need the return lines - and the Andair really didn't fit properly in the structural space.

Bottom line - the old valve works pretty good and its a lot of work to change from one to the other!
 
My RV6 fuel valve is starting to seep around the shaft too. Does anyone have sizes for those o-rings? I'd like to order them before I take that thing apart. Also, do I have to drain the fuel tanks completely?

It is the original tractor valve style from the Vans kit. But, obviously, I didn't build the plane or I'd know the answer. ;-)
 
Alright... everyone has sold me on it. What O-rings do I need to purchase?

D
 
You either have to drain the fuel tanks, or get creative and do a quick swap with a cap when you take the line off of the tank. You can do it with minimal fuel dripping down your arm! Or, drain the tanks.

I chose simply to buy a replacement valve from Vans and put my old one aside for the o-ring replacement. For $55, it wasn't worth the hassle as simple as it is and I figure after a dozen years and 750 hours, that valve owed me nothing....
 
My RV6 fuel valve is starting to seep around the shaft too. Does anyone have sizes for those o-rings? I'd like to order them before I take that thing apart. Also, do I have to drain the fuel tanks completely?

It is the original tractor valve style from the Vans kit. But, obviously, I didn't build the plane or I'd know the answer. ;-)

You need to drain the tanks below the level of the valve. The "O" rings can be purchased at any auto parts and at most hardware stores..... no need to order them.

You don't need to remove the valve from the plumbing. Just unscrew the top cap and lift out. It helps to lift the handle before you remove the screw, then just tap on the handle till it comes off.
 
Thanks Gasman. I figured if I got the tank level below that of the valve I should be ok but before I anointed myself with AvGas, I figured I'd ask in case I was missing something due to fluid dynamics.

Thanks also, JonJay. Mine is a fairly new valve so I'd rather leave it in place and just try changing out the o-rings.

Gotta fly a few more patterns on each tank and then give this a try...
 
Thanks Gasman. I figured if I got the tank level below that of the valve I should be ok but before I anointed myself with AvGas, I figured I'd ask in case I was missing something due to fluid dynamics.

Thanks also, JonJay. Mine is a fairly new valve so I'd rather leave it in place and just try changing out the o-rings.

Gotta fly a few more patterns on each tank and then give this a try...

Great!
I didn't realize you could do it in place. I changed from hose to hardline so mine was coming out anyway. Good luck.
 
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