Van's Air Force
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Swivel Mushroom Set Question
- Thread starter cczarnik
- Start date
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
If by "a lot of play" your mean the set loosely swivels around it's shaft (e.g. holding it upright the set easily falls to one side), then yes that's normal.
Last edited:
alpinelakespilot2000
Well Known Member
That sounds normal but FWIW, I started using one of those but soon learned that I did better riveting with less damage by using a solid flush set; in particular, the kind with the rubber washer/gasket around the diameter of the face. Good luck with your build.
rmartingt
Well Known Member
Sounds normal.
I have the "loose" kind and the kind with a rubber "shroud" around it. Both are far better for riveting solo or with an inexperienced partner. It will want to slide around on you a bit and might leave some scuff marks but unless you're polishing you'll buff them out when you sand for paint.
I have the "loose" kind and the kind with a rubber "shroud" around it. Both are far better for riveting solo or with an inexperienced partner. It will want to slide around on you a bit and might leave some scuff marks but unless you're polishing you'll buff them out when you sand for paint.
Imagine that the socket is about 1/16" larger than the ball. Feels like you could make a mess in a hurry. I bought this for a backup for my standard mushroom but this will be a set of last resort. Haven't used it yet may change my mind after that. Thx all for the comments.
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
Best thing to do then is test it on some scrap. The nice thing about the swivel set is your technique doesn't have to be perfect to get perfect results.
ppilotmike
Well Known Member
Love my mushroom swivel set..
..and I use it for all my bucked flush riveting. Mine is more rigid than what you describe and I believe that a set that's more difficult to swivel is preferable. That being said, I wouldn't want to use a fixed set (i.e. no swivel). As far as it "marking up the skin during riveting," I put a piece of blue painter's tape on the metal surface part, to prevent this. You want the rubber sleeve to still be in contact with the airframe, to prevent the set from sliding around, but putting a little piece of tape in the middle will protect the aluminum. Depending on how high you set the air on your rivet gun, the tape should be good for about 10 - 20 rivets. Change it before it gets to banged up, or it takes longer to switch it out. I use a roll of 1" tape, which lasts a long, long time, and it's cheap. People always comment on how "scuff-free" my skins are. Then again, the painter will scuff them all up before painting, when the time comes.
..and I use it for all my bucked flush riveting. Mine is more rigid than what you describe and I believe that a set that's more difficult to swivel is preferable. That being said, I wouldn't want to use a fixed set (i.e. no swivel). As far as it "marking up the skin during riveting," I put a piece of blue painter's tape on the metal surface part, to prevent this. You want the rubber sleeve to still be in contact with the airframe, to prevent the set from sliding around, but putting a little piece of tape in the middle will protect the aluminum. Depending on how high you set the air on your rivet gun, the tape should be good for about 10 - 20 rivets. Change it before it gets to banged up, or it takes longer to switch it out. I use a roll of 1" tape, which lasts a long, long time, and it's cheap. People always comment on how "scuff-free" my skins are. Then again, the painter will scuff them all up before painting, when the time comes.
