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Corrosion Protection

C

challinan

Active Member
Joined the ranks - purchased RV-14A Emp kit at Oshkosh. Biggest question relates to corrosion protection. My -14A will live 5 miles from salt water, and needs *some* type of protection. Vans has no "preference" (they use a Sherwin Williams P60G2 primer in Philippines on QB stuff they say because it's readily available there.) I've heard of Alodine and see it's characteristic color on certificated airplanes.

I appreciate that it's probably a religious question, but wonder what others have used or might suggest? I'd probably go with Alodine unless there are better ways. Thanks.

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Chris Hallinan
Punta Gorda, FL
RV-14A (just getting started)
 
You're right about it being a religious question. Look in "The Never Ending Debates" section for hundreds of opinions.
 
Chris, Im currently on the backside (I think) on my RV-10 build. Im out of KPGD, so feel to PM me your phone and I can give you all the info the local flyers have told me since moving here.
 
I live in coastal Florida and have been in the aluminum railing and bridge business for about 13 years. The humid salt air is environment is devastating on aluminum. We deal with several types of powder coat and a few liquid applied systems. So far the only thing that really last is the conversion coating[Alodine] with liquid a applied paint. I have a single seat aircraft about a mile from the gulf that was polished, not a good idea, it since has been Alodined and painted. I am currently building an RV7 and am spending a lot of time acid washing and alodineing every part including both sides of skins. I am using a strontium chromate primer for internal structure and inside of skins. I am also using Tef Gel on most steel and aluminum areas of contact. I may be crazy but I have seen some rapid deterioration in a short amount of time, even my polished alclad aircraft. Its a lot easier dealing with now than later.
 
FWIW.
I've been flying my RV7 10 years as of last month.
I was based in Brooksville, FL (KBKV) and most recently Clearwater (KCLW). My first few years my 7 was unpainted. I used a line of rattle can spray where ribs meet skins. My 7 was hangared all 10 years.

BTW, KBKV is about 10 miles inland, KCLW about 3 miles.

I see NO, that's zero, evidence of any corrosion, surface or otherwise.

I guess if I planned on flying it for 40 years, I'd probably step up some corrosion protection. But, since I'm 64, it will definitely outlast me.

Just sayin'
 
Compare to production aeroplanes of the past. Many had no corrosion protection and many have had little or no issues over 20, 30 or 40 years.

That said, it is your baby and you can make a difference.

As others have mentioned, there have been volumes written on this, ultimately it is up to you to strike a balance with how much energy and expense you want to put in, whether you are comfortable using potentially dangerous products such as chromate or epoxy products when less hazardous products are available.

Some use non chromate etch primer via rattle can or spray. Personally, that is my choice and we live in a maritime environment in the UK.

After painting though, I would recommend an internal spray with a product such as ACF50. It creeps around and does a really good job of stopping the sweat and condensation getting into seams. That is the main problem area, particularly around tank areas where cold fuel from a trip will create a lot of condensation on substructure after landing in your humid conditions.

Base line - read lots, get advise from several, go with what you are comfortable with and then you too can become a Primer Wars Guru, just like us lot :D
 
On my second project, and have become a fan of DuPont veriprime applied with a sponge brush. I mix small amounts and mix it thin so a little goes a long way. Many builders retain the blue film on their skins, but I find the thin, wash coat of veriprime is more effective at preventing scratches during the build. After deburing and scotch brighting, I clean with a spray bottle of diluted conversion type detergent and clean rags. Then sponge brush on thin veriprime. I sponge brush before any dimple operations, because the dimples seem to squeeze extra primer out of the sponge and cause drips.

2dvo1g7.jpg


In this picture, most of the parts have had the veriprime treatment. But others are still being final trimmed and drilled to final size. The on with the scotch bright, detergent clean and veriprime. To me, it is fast, inexpensive and effective.
 
I spelled the name of the primer incorrectly. It's spelled Variprime, not veriprime. I hate it when I do that!
 
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