Don't care for the standard throttle assembly for the RV-8, just looks and feels kind of weak and cheap. I've seen numerous photos of upgraded units, wondering if anyone knows who might be selling them?
James Hawkins
Don't know how I missed this, when I first looked I swear they only offered it for other models. Thanks!!!
How do I reach you, Mark? Those look nice and clean, I'll share with my partner tomorrow.I produce a nice repro version of the WW2 style -- actuator movement specs are set up for the normal air,fuel & gov requirements on our planes.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/803/quadrant.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9342/quadrant2.jpg
Carry on!
Mark
Everybody's a comic!!! Thanks.You could always use one of these ...
Nothing feels quite like an F-16 throttle in the hand ... heheh ...
Don,
Where can I get one? I have a toy one for my computer, but I'd rather keep it for flight simming.
I produce a nice repro version of the WW2 style -- actuator movement specs are set up for the normal air,fuel & gov requirements on our planes.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/803/quadrant.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9342/quadrant2.jpg
Carry on!
Mark
For those interested, it's a Thrustmaster HOTAS Cougar. Amazon has them for $190. Can be found on eBay too. They are well constructed aluminum. I have the stick and throttle tucked away, planning on using them the same way.
Nope. Sorry, you lose.
It's not a Thrustmaster Cougar. This is the real thing. F-16 throttle control unit.
However, depending on how sturdy the Thrustmaster unit is, it may work just dandy. The only button that I connected from this is the SPD BRK button -- I use it to actuate my flaps. I had enough buttons on the matching stick grip to run everything else that I wanted to control.
Wow, Mark, that looks like a much better quadrant than even the 'delux' one. The delux one from Vans still isn't stiff enough, too much rubbing stick-tion where the levers come through the guide. And for some reason, the friction adjustment won't make all the levers have the same resistance.
So, if it would fit in as a retrofit, I would be interested in one of yours,
Steve.
That's sweet. I was thinking of retrofitting delrin guides onto the Van's deluxe unit, but since you've already done it......
Our lever guides are delrin; ...
I produce a nice repro version of the WW2 style -- actuator movement specs are set up for the normal air,fuel & gov requirements on our planes.
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/803/quadrant.jpg
http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9342/quadrant2.jpg
Carry on!
Mark
Mark,
Why did you put the levers in that order ?
Normally, the prop sits next to the throttle and the mixture is furthest away.
Looks a very nice unit - may yet be tempted.......
Mark- How wide (thick) is the unit? What is the current price? Are they on your website?
(snip)
Flyeyes -- Just wondering how you mounted this in your 8? I'll post notes and other folks' install stories for reference on the site. Doesn't look too difficult, as it drops in clean, just need to tweak the attach hole placement a little.
Take care all -- Andy
It appears that without redesigning the quadrant structure there is no way to run the switch wiring except externally. From an esthetic perspective it would sure be more appealing if the support arm of the throttle was designed with more mass (diameter) so that wiring could run inside of it in the same manner as a control stick. Perhaps due to fine products like yours switching controls will become more commonplace on throttle quadrants, and more esthetically pleasing designs will be developed.
What I am planning to do for the PTT on our throttle is to run a single wire down the inside of the grip then along the front of the lever "bar", with heat shrink around the bar to hold it there. I'll use the "bar" itself as the ground. PTT is just grounding a wire so this should make a virtually invisible wire. Won't work for a more complex set of wiring, of course, but for PTT alone, well....I'll let you know!
run a single wire down the inside of the grip then along the front of the lever "bar", with heat shrink around the bar to hold it there.
You could also wire up using flexible circuit board tape or ribbon cable as used in computers etc, route this down the shaft, heatshrink over and then join a curly cord or straight cord out of sight further down near the axis of rotation.
Just a thought....
It appears that without redesigning the quadrant structure there is no way to run the switch wiring except externally. From an esthetic perspective it would sure be more appealing if the support arm of the throttle was designed with more mass (diameter) so that wiring could run inside of it in the same manner as a control stick. Perhaps due to fine products like yours switching controls will become more commonplace on throttle quadrants, and more esthetically pleasing designs will be developed.
Hey Bill:
If you want one that hides the wire, I can build it, and Andy will put one of his most cool handles on it. You are asking for a very specialized unit, likely to cost 2x what the original cost. Send me a check and I'll get on it!
Mark, good to know this is an option. When I'm ready I'll reach out to you.
Hey Bill:
If you want one that hides the wire, I can build it, and Andy will put one of his most cool handles on it. You are asking for a very specialized unit, likely to cost 2x what the original cost. Send me a check and I'll get on it!
Carry on!
Mark
Hey Mark -- I just removed the outboard delrin cap spacer. With the steel stiffness in the lever and without the spacer, the throttle lever moves exactly the same -- very smooth and very solid. Here is what I propose for folks wanting to hide the wiring.
1. for a left side mount fatboss1 throttle quadrant, detach the top outboard facing screws.
2. with just a little pressure, pull back the outboard throttle quadrant frame piece just enough to slide off one end of the outboard 1/8th thick delrin spacer. Slide the other end off and remove the delrin spacer.
3. insert (2) AN960-15 washers and (1) "L" version of the AN960-15, at each end. If you use (3) 960-15s the outboard frame bends slightly out.
4. cut out x inches of 1 inch shrink tubing and slide over the exposed grip end of the throttle lever.
5. slide through your conduit/wiring, and guide along the LE of the lever.
6. before heating it up, attach the grip back on the lever
7. with the grip on the lever, check to make sure everything is where you want it and heat it up -- should be nice and clean.
I have NOT done this, so be sure to give this a lot of testing. I have taken some pictures and uploaded to the fatboy site here to show the extra 1/8th inch gap, so without the delrin spacer you should have a 1/4 inch gap -- plenty of space for the coil cord conduit or 7 loose 24 awg wires, or other conduit to slide with the throttle lever staying clear of the delrin sides.
Pictures here:
http://www.fatboythrottles.com/throttle_quadrant_pictures.php
-- Andy
more info here: www.fatboythrottlequadrants.com