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Shortest Machinist Level size to level wing?

PhatRV

Well Known Member
I am planning to pre-fit the wings and to drill out the necessary holes sometime later this year. What is the best size, of a machinist level I can use to level the wing ? I realize the longer level is the best but it really costs a lot of money for something I only use a few times in my lifetime. So what is the shortest machinist level I can use, such as 8" or 6" level?

Thanks,

Phat Vu
 
A good spirit level of at least 2? is recommended, 4? preferred, and are not at all expensive. I use a 2? and a 6? level.

A digital level is nice, but for this fall short of the need and I find do not do the job as well for things like setting wing angle of incidence. The digital level does come in handy when verifying control surface deflections.

Carl
 
Digital level

I used one for the entire build. Also have a weighted level. For the wings, I used a long section of aluminum angle and a short piece. Clamped the short piece at the aft end the correct dimension and layed the digital level on top.
 
A machinist level is way too precise for this job. Chasing the bubble will drive you nuts!
Stewart Willoughby, 6 ready for paint.
 
If I forgot my 2' digital level at home, I use my 6" digital one at the hangar taped to a chunk of angle. I than tape spacers to the angle to clear the skin & line up with the main and rear spar positions - makes consistent readings for both wings.
 
I used one for the entire build. Also have a weighted level. For the wings, I used a long section of aluminum angle and a short piece. Clamped the short piece at the aft end the correct dimension and layed the digital level on top.

+1 on this method
 
I have an ancient 8" Starrett machinist bubble level that I used. I also had a 12" Starrett, but sold that off. The 8" is more handy. Lays across the spar nicely. (Sorry, I thought you were talking about jigging the wing.). I have a variety of framing levels up to six feet that I use alone or as a straight plank for the machinist level.
I also have a digital level, but I caution you to verify any level before trusting it. The old reverse-it test. My digital was a full 2 degrees off. I had to disassemble it to re-align the module. I don't trust it for anything precise.
 
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I have a bubble level from 6" torpedo type to a long framing level. I read something in this forum about using the machinist level since the wing incidence must be set very precisely and the digital level does not register a change if the incidence at the rear spar is just off by 1/8".

Have anyone of you tried to used the regular hardware store bubble level (the kind I have) to set you wings and have flown without any problem?

Thanks
 
I have a bubble level from 6" torpedo type to a long framing level. I read something in this forum about using the machinist level since the wing incidence must be set very precisely and the digital level does not register a change if the incidence at the rear spar is just off by 1/8".

Have anyone of you tried to used the regular hardware store bubble level (the kind I have) to set you wings and have flown without any problem?

Thanks

RV?s have been built for decades using just a simple bubble level. The key to success is in knowing that the one you have is accurate.
The way to confirm that is that a level should read the exact same for each position when placed on a surface and then rotated 180 degrees and placed back in the same position.
 
RV?s have been built for decades using just a simple bubble level. The key to success is in knowing that the one you have is accurate.
The way to confirm that is that a level should read the exact same for each position when placed on a surface and then rotated 180 degrees and placed back in the same position.

Okay the key is get the bubble level calibrated then. I know none of my levels are calibrated since they were bought from the hardware store almost a decade ago. I will calibrate then to see if they are suitable to use them on the wings

Thanks,
 
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