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Fuel Valve Handle

Plummit

Well Known Member
While I was in the tunnel to clean the fuel filter and check for leaks, I discovered that the screw that is supposed to secure the fuel valve handle was not long enough to engage the stem. Also, the builder had installed the fuel valve at the top of the tunnel, and then the escutcheon sits on top of the tunnel cover. This extra thickness means the handle doesn't sit low enough for the positive lock of the handle plunger to engage the top of the fuel valve.

At the very least I would like to secure the handle to the valve, but ideally, I would like the handle to sit in it's proper position. My mechanic suggested cutting a hole large enough for the escutcheon to sit inside of the tunnel top.

How do I take the spring loaded plunger assemble out to install a longer handle screw?

Any other ideas on making the escutcheon work? With the handle extension kit solve both of these issues?

thanks

~Marc
 
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Assuming it's an Andair valve, we had a tight fit too. We have the standard tunnel cover plus the aerosport center console, we did make a custom bracket underneath all that, that brought the valve up as far as possible so we only had to go through the two layers. I'll see if I can dig up some pictures.
 
I believe that with the tunnel cover in place, there is perhaps ¼"+ gap that the escutcheon and handle have to make up. The edges of the tunnel cover are have a radius that elevates it up even a little higher.

I'm not overly concerned about the lift knob contacting the stop in the the top of the valve, as the internal detentes seem to work just fine and it's position makes it very hard to accidentally turn off. I do want the screw to secure the handle though.

The cap on top of the handle comes off, but how? It fits pretty tight. Replacing the handle screw with longer one may not allow me to tighten the handle as it might then contact the escutcheon and make it difficult to turn, but perhaps it will work.

The plans seem to indicate that the valve be mounted lower in the tunnel, but this would almost certainly require an extension to the handle.

~Marc
 
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Around 2008 Vans changed the design. Before then the valve was mounted high, with a simple handle. After that date the valve was moved lower, and the handle with detent used. Sounds like you have a hybrid.
 
My mechanic suggested cutting a hole large enough for the escutcheon to sit inside of the tunnel top.

This is what we did.

Also, made a new mount to put the valve up as high as it could go.

And, split the cover to make filter access a lot easier :D

P4160037.jpg


P4160038.jpg


P4160036.jpg
 
My plane is from a 2009 kit #40871.

Mike, how did you cut such a nice round hole? I already have a small hole cut for the valve. I could cut a nice larger hole if starting from scratch, but with a smaller hole already there it would be tough.....

~Marc
 
I hired a magic jinni to do it.

Actually, his name is Randy Thorne-------and he did it with a die grinder and cut off wheel. Make small cuts close to the line you drew-----(you did draw a line didnt you) and finished out with a half round file.
 
My plane is from a 2009 kit #40871.

Mike, how did you cut such a nice round hole? I already have a small hole cut for the valve. I could cut a nice larger hole if starting from scratch, but with a smaller hole already there it would be tough.....

~Marc

Just screw or clamp a temporary board under the aluminum. Drill a pilot hole in the wood. Use your larger hole saw to cut the new larger hole.
 
Just screw or clamp a temporary board under the aluminum. Drill a pilot hole in the wood. Use your larger hole saw to cut the new larger hole.

That was my idea til I ran it by an A&P friend. He just shook his head and suggested something similar to Mike's friend.

regards

~Marc
 
So I guess no one knows how the cap comes off the safety so I can put a longer screw in the handle for now? ;-) I'm just thinking that it would not be real fun for the handle to come off in flight and end up in a position that I can't reach while strapped in....

~Marc
 
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Just screw or clamp a temporary board under the aluminum. Drill a pilot hole in the wood. Use your larger hole saw to cut the new larger hole.

I have cut large holes that way, just get a hole saw from your hardware store that is the correct size, then drill one, or more, holes inside the diameter for screws with nuts. These will hold the plywood tight. Find a place in the plywood to put the pilot hole (take the pilot drill out so you can mark it), and then you are ready to go. Wear ear protection, because the sound will be awful.
John
 
In addition to what John said, I find I get a much cleaner job by just drilling the center/pilot hole in the wood, then removing and reversing the drill bit-------assuming your hole saw has a removable bit------so you end up with just a straight rod in the pilot hole, and then the pilot hole is not wallowed out by the drill flutes as you cut the big hole.
 
I received an answer from Andair today so I thought I would share it in case anyone else needs to change the screw that holds the handle on the valve:

Turn the lever upside down and place it over something, push the pin out which will dislodge the cap. You'll then be able to take the cap off, remove the e-clip and then take the button off.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards,
Jenny

BTW, the stock screw is a M4x12. I'll be looking for something a little longer, perhaps a M4x13

regards

~Marc
 
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