Not if the torque wrench is perpendicular to the stubby wrench such that the distance from point of applied force on the handle to the center line of the bolt is the same as if no adapters were used. Perhaps someone else can explain it better.Are there any arm calculations to make?
I got a 1/2 inch socket (0.25 square drive) and gound down both ends. I also ground down the square end of an extension. I can now fit the socket on the nut, and insert the extension without the need to braze the two pieces together.
So thanks for the original idea...
Cheers...Keith
It's the landing gear attachment point. I would not want to weaken this area by removing material.
Oh, and according to the instructions, we are to install 916-5L washers under the heads of the dash 5 bolts, to aid in torquing from the bold end, only there is none in the kit, nor on the parts packing list. I had some, but what did everyone else do here?
Tom
The mod went well up to re-installing the gear legs. Not sure why, but I'm having trouble getting the U1202 outside bottom gear leg bracket to seat. I see no obstructions, but after snugging it up, I still have a gap at the top of the bolt legs. The gear leg seems to be seated against the wear plate though, but I can still get a fingernail in the gap at the bolt legs.
I torqued from the top, on the nuts, using an extension and a crow's foot wrench. Bought the crow's foot wrenches for this job at Harbor Freight. They come in handy.
I am not sure what "the gap at the bolt legs means", but when the bolts are fully torqued, there is supposed to still be a small gap between the U-1202 and the U-1202D-B.
If there wasn't, it would be difficult to know whether full clamping pressure was developed against the gear leg, before contact was made.
A properly torqued self locking nut is not likely to ever rotate.Is the detensioning due to the nut creeping or some other reason?
After torquing properly, I tested and found that the bolts were easy to turn without holding the nuts. To me that says that I ran out of threads, so I just added and addition washer under then nuts. That worked fine, and there is still plenty of thread past the ends of the nuts, and the bolts seem to have grip, rather than running out of thread. Curious if I am the only one to experience this?? .............Tom
I am aware of one other instance. It must be related to the wide dimensional tolerance of standard AN bolts. After installation and torquing, all the bolts should be checked using the common rule of thumb. No more than 3 full threads protruding beyond the end of the nut.
Adding another washer would be the proper remedy.
Did anyone have problems countersinking the wear plates? So far I've trashed 2 countersinks and only have one hole done.
It appears the countersunk machine screws are retaining devices and not structural. I'm wondering if they are really necessary. Any thoughts out there?
Did anyone have problems countersinking the wear plates? So far I've trashed 2 countersinks and only have one hole done.
It appears the countersunk machine screws are retaining devices and not structural. I'm wondering if they are really necessary. Any thoughts out there?
Look at page 2 of the SB
Having reinstalled the gear twice, my advice would be to temporarily install the big inner centre bolt from the bottom without installing the intervening plates at this stage. It's easy to get this through the leg and the central channel, then put a couple of turns on the nut from the top to stop it dropping out again. This secures the leg in the right horizontal position, before you try to get the outside bolts in. And this can be facilitated by lining up the holes from the top with a screwdriver smaller than the hole diameter. Finally remove the big bolt and reinstall from the top, with the various additional plates in place.
Cheers...Keith
I don't recall any issues installing the Cherry Max Rivets. Maybe I was just lucky.