Order of match drilling leading edge to main spar flange

Hello,
I've clecoed my leading edge together, clecoed that to the spar, and match drilled all skin to main rib holes, except the skin to main spar holes.

Wondering when (or if) I should match drill the skin to spar rivet holes - before or after riveting the leading edge together? The goal is to keep things aligned and straight, of course.

Here's the two ways it could go down:
1. Rivet leading edge skin to ribs while off the spar, like the manual says (some twist may result at this point)
2. Place riveted leading edge on spar, match drill skin to spar flange rivet holes.
3. rivet leading edge skin and ribs to the spar. Spar skin holes should align perfectly, but leading edge may be a bit twisted.

--or--
1. Cleco leading edge skin to ribs, cleco to spar flange, and drill skin to spar rivet holes.
2. Remove leading edge and rivet (some twist may develop)
3. Cleco riveted leading edge to spar. If there is twist in the leading edge, it may be possible to pull the assembly back in line at this point.
4. Rivet leading edge to spar. It's not twisted, but the ribs may be preloaded.

There's perhaps a third option, too:
Don't match drill the skin to spar rivet holes, just open up them up to #40 independently, and hope that the as-punched alignment keeps everything together.

Any advice would be appreciated on which way to go.

Assembly

Seems like the manual gives the order but I think I used the second option.
Everything was clekoed including bottom and top skins and tank. Holes match drilled with #40 reamer then disassembled and the usual debur, dimple, prime, rivet process.
The leading edge privides significant strength so make sure the wing is straight before riveting them on. Should be in my blog.

I drilled the holes to the spar "option 2" but like Larry said, make sure your spar is straight and true before doing it. Use a jack in the middle of the wing structure to help get rid of the sag and straighten out the wing.

I used #2.

Like the others said, make sure there is now bow or twist.
I went a little overboard and checked the matching with both top and lower skins. I also wanted to make sure the alignment between top skin edge and leading edge....edge.

Don't forget to get the splice plate and last rib match drilled in there somewhere.

This is how I assured skin/splice/rib alignment.
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=N741BN&project=2288&category=0&log=207956&row=17

Thanks for the advice, all. I kind of figured option #2 was the way to go.

For the right wing, I have drilled the main and leading edge skins to the ribs, but not the main spar. However, this was done with the skeleton clamped to the wing stand only at the main spar, with the rear spar unconstrained.

I am just now installing the lower support braces that will clamp the rear spar to keep it from twisting.

Once that is done, I will finish drilling the main and leading skins to the main spar.

I shot one of those inexpensive laser levels the length of the spar making sure it was straight. I did use my wing jig and had a jack in the center to hold up the sag.

Had the tank on and the leading edge on before starting the skins.

basically followed Van's instruction. Like most I thought the skins were going to have a big gap at the tank on the spar but as they were riveted the lines drew closed and very tight.

Jack