jferraro17
Opulence, I has it...
Really nice Jim!
Van's Air Force
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Show us your panel!
- Thread starter Alan Erickson
- Start date
Bill Dicus
Well Known Member
Panel
Great looking panel. How is it to fly behind in the real world? Do you fly IFR? Would you change anything if starting anew? Your workmanship appears wonderful. Bill
Great looking panel. How is it to fly behind in the real world? Do you fly IFR? Would you change anything if starting anew? Your workmanship appears wonderful. Bill
flickroll
Well Known Member
Thanks for the kind words guys. I am happy with the way it turned out, but.....
I do fly IFR/IMC and this panel is not adequate for that. A recent IMC flight caused me to reflect on the mission of this aircraft. Will I stick with VFR and keep the existing panel, or change it and thereby let me more safely fly IMC? I don't want to continue to fly IMC with what I have.
In this panel there is no backup AI other than the GPS derived six pack on the G696. And there is no room in the panel for a backup, other than the 2 1/4" hole on the left side panel where I could install an RC Allen electronic AI. But if the EFIS fails I really don't want to be IMC and try to keep the aircraft upright by gazing that far to the left. So, I'm probably gonna upgrade the whole panel.
I really like the G696 and want to retain that in the new panel. With that constraint, I started looking at dual EFIS systems. Dual (stacked) Advanced systems won't fit, nor will two of the smaller Dynon Skyview EFIS'. Plus Dynon has a long way to go to get the features active in Skyview that I desire. One consideration that I am currently looking at is to replace the lower EMS D-120 engine management box and replace with a Dynon Flightdeck D-180 box with battery backup. That would be the least expensive alternative that would give me a redundant and independent EFIS.
But another consideration is that my panel has only one legal IFR navigation system, the G SL30. I really want to add a G430W to the panel, but I can't do that without getting rid of the Dynon AP74. But I don't want to be fiddling around with the D-100 EFIS for autopilot control if I'm IMC. So I'm getting down to redoing the whole panel and put in 2 GRT Horizon HX screens with dual AHRS and backup batteries, and add the G430 and an audio panel. Lots of money for sure.
Meanwhile I ponder....
I do fly IFR/IMC and this panel is not adequate for that. A recent IMC flight caused me to reflect on the mission of this aircraft. Will I stick with VFR and keep the existing panel, or change it and thereby let me more safely fly IMC? I don't want to continue to fly IMC with what I have.
In this panel there is no backup AI other than the GPS derived six pack on the G696. And there is no room in the panel for a backup, other than the 2 1/4" hole on the left side panel where I could install an RC Allen electronic AI. But if the EFIS fails I really don't want to be IMC and try to keep the aircraft upright by gazing that far to the left. So, I'm probably gonna upgrade the whole panel.
I really like the G696 and want to retain that in the new panel. With that constraint, I started looking at dual EFIS systems. Dual (stacked) Advanced systems won't fit, nor will two of the smaller Dynon Skyview EFIS'. Plus Dynon has a long way to go to get the features active in Skyview that I desire. One consideration that I am currently looking at is to replace the lower EMS D-120 engine management box and replace with a Dynon Flightdeck D-180 box with battery backup. That would be the least expensive alternative that would give me a redundant and independent EFIS.
But another consideration is that my panel has only one legal IFR navigation system, the G SL30. I really want to add a G430W to the panel, but I can't do that without getting rid of the Dynon AP74. But I don't want to be fiddling around with the D-100 EFIS for autopilot control if I'm IMC. So I'm getting down to redoing the whole panel and put in 2 GRT Horizon HX screens with dual AHRS and backup batteries, and add the G430 and an audio panel. Lots of money for sure.
Meanwhile I ponder....
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I am wanting to fly IFR and needed some additional instruments, I found this GRT sport 200 here on the forum and it made sense for me considering just the CDI and back up AH I need would have cost more than the sport.
I bought a new panel blank but after further consideration I thought I would be better off installing it, and see if this location would work.
My next Change will be a 430w in place of the GX 65.
The evolution continues.
I bought a new panel blank but after further consideration I thought I would be better off installing it, and see if this location would work.
My next Change will be a 430w in place of the GX 65.
The evolution continues.
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flickroll
Well Known Member
This is what I have in mind. Not finalized yet, and positions will be jockeyed around a little, but a general idea. The larger Advanced screen is a 4500 panel mount unit (same dimensionally as the 3500). I had thought about stacking 2 3400's in the center of the panel, and put all of the radios on the right, but I think I like the larger screen better because it displays info with a bigger picture, plus it has the newer device navigation knobs on the box. The downside is my radios will have to be scattered around a little, not a major drawback IMO. Comments/criticism appreciated!
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flickroll
Well Known Member
Chris -
The SL30 will definitely fit, took measurements today. It's in a similar position to where it is in my existing panel, see the picture in a couple of posts above these (previous page). Actually it will fit better there than it does in my existing panel. It will clear both braces. The dimension from the face of the baggage compartment z brace to the panel face is 10 7/8", and it's over an inch behind the z brace, for around 12" total. The SL30 tray to the back of the connector is about 11 1/2". The G430 will be close, but I think it will also fit. May have to do something creative for the antenna cabling..... Won't know for sure until I get the unit from Stein, this week hopefully. But if it won't go there, I could mount it above the right hand EFIS. That would not look so good in that configuration though.
The SL30 will definitely fit, took measurements today. It's in a similar position to where it is in my existing panel, see the picture in a couple of posts above these (previous page). Actually it will fit better there than it does in my existing panel. It will clear both braces. The dimension from the face of the baggage compartment z brace to the panel face is 10 7/8", and it's over an inch behind the z brace, for around 12" total. The SL30 tray to the back of the connector is about 11 1/2". The G430 will be close, but I think it will also fit. May have to do something creative for the antenna cabling..... Won't know for sure until I get the unit from Stein, this week hopefully. But if it won't go there, I could mount it above the right hand EFIS. That would not look so good in that configuration though.
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Wow! That looks really great!
However, is it not a bit redundant? Your plan has two GPS units, two Comm radios, two Nav radios, and two MFDs.
And while your panel would provide a great deal of capabilities, do you think that it is worth all of the extra weight, the extra wiring, and all of the extra money issues?
As someone who is still in the 'Panel Planning' process, I would be most interested to find out why you want such a panel.
Thanks much!
Bill Dicus
Well Known Member
Panel
Jim: You're correct that the SL30 will fit fine - mine's in the same position. The 430W might be a problem - you'd have to measure very carefully and perhaps use compact right angle antenna BNC's. That's a really nice panel. The two 3400's mounted vertically however would give more options on the radio stack. The other ? is whether you will input manually more often to the 696 or to the radios. Some like to use the left hand for most of that input and keep the right hand on the stick, so place radios on the left as I did. Hard to know for me which I'd like best until actually flying. Was Stein able to give an answer as to the two 3400's mounted vertically? I know he values symmetry in a panel if it can be achieved. I think the panel the way you mocked it up would work beautifully if the 430W fits well. I'll try to send some pics of my 430W at the back of the "tube" so you can see how that fits. Bill
Jim: You're correct that the SL30 will fit fine - mine's in the same position. The 430W might be a problem - you'd have to measure very carefully and perhaps use compact right angle antenna BNC's. That's a really nice panel. The two 3400's mounted vertically however would give more options on the radio stack. The other ? is whether you will input manually more often to the 696 or to the radios. Some like to use the left hand for most of that input and keep the right hand on the stick, so place radios on the left as I did. Hard to know for me which I'd like best until actually flying. Was Stein able to give an answer as to the two 3400's mounted vertically? I know he values symmetry in a panel if it can be achieved. I think the panel the way you mocked it up would work beautifully if the 430W fits well. I'll try to send some pics of my 430W at the back of the "tube" so you can see how that fits. Bill
You're absolutely right
Jim, you're right about the SL30. I didn't realize that if you mount it low enough, you can squeeze it between the two Z-bars. Your panel will be awesome if you can get the 430 in there somewhere.
I finally got mine all fired up and everything talking to everything - A good feeling!
Regards,
Chris
Jim, you're right about the SL30. I didn't realize that if you mount it low enough, you can squeeze it between the two Z-bars. Your panel will be awesome if you can get the 430 in there somewhere.
I finally got mine all fired up and everything talking to everything - A good feeling!
Regards,
Chris
flickroll
Well Known Member
Crossbow, Bill & Chris -
I already have the 696 and the SL30 so I'll reuse them. I want to try to keep the 696 - it's XM weather is just awesome, and it has a battery backup which will provide guidance in the event of a buss failure. Also, it has approach charts, soon to be georeferenced. I know Advanced has this feature too, but my intent is to use the 3400 for a dedicated engine monitoring panel (but it is also a backup EFIS in case the 4500 goes belly up), and I'll mainly use the 4500 as a PFD. I also want an enroute and approach capable GPS, hence the 430. I realize this is a totally redundant panel, but I intend to fly IFR/IMC, and in that world redundancy is King! Take a look at anyone's panel who flies IFR....you'll find a redundant system....either another EFIS system with battery backup, or steam gauges.
2 vertically stacked 3400's would fit and definitely look better, particularly because I could then have a traditional radio stack, and having my radios scattered around does bother me. One thing I could do is ditch the 696 and use the Advanced XM weather module, or get a 496 and put it in the stack, if it would fit in the stack with the Air Gizmos mount.
Regarding radios left or right...in my existing panel I have the SL30 on the left, and being right handed I have found it is very awkward to use my left hand to tune frequencies, etc. Likewise, it will be awkward to take my hand off of the stick to tune radios. So radio position is still undecided, but am leaning to the right side.
Chris - your panel is AWESOME!
Bill - your panel is too! I'd appreciate a picture at the back of your 430 in the panel. Turns out I won't get my unit from Stein for at least another week. The fit of the 430 is the key to how the rest of this panel goes together. If the 430 will not go there then the 696 will be ditched, I'll go to a radio 'stack' and I'd then go with the Advanced XM module, or a 496.
Thanks for the input! I really appreciate the interest and feedback.
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Bill Dicus
Well Known Member
Panel
Jim: Will try to post pic this pm. I'm hoping my left hand works OK for the radios. Just sitting in the plane it feels a bit clumsy but seems adequate. We'll see later in the real world. Bill
Jim: Will try to post pic this pm. I'm hoping my left hand works OK for the radios. Just sitting in the plane it feels a bit clumsy but seems adequate. We'll see later in the real world. Bill
flickroll
Well Known Member
Well, after a conversation with Rob Hickman on the Advanced Forum, I'm really starting to question the need to keep the 696 in the panel. The Advanced 4500 and 3400 will display and do everything that I need and want. No 696 would also free up a lot of panel space and make room for a stack with all of my radios. If I did this, the stack would likely be on the right and the 3400 on the left. Decisions decisions!
Thanks for clearing that up!
I saw your earlier post about your desire for redundacy in IFR equipment, and while I thought it was a prudent step, however I was also wondering the the Panel would simply be wide enough to accomodate everything that you had pictured.
After all, the Main Section of the RV-8 Panel is only 24 inches wide, right?
Provided that one subtracts that the 3/4" overlap where the Right and Left Sections come in, that sure does not leave much room.
This is where the side-by-side RVr's have a considerable advantage over the the tandem RVr's.
Here's our panel. We are about ready for a DAR.
HS34,Zaon MRX,PMA4000,G 430,DEK 180,Icom IC200,G 696,GTX 327
more at: http://tinypic.com/4dukcbba
HS34,Zaon MRX,PMA4000,G 430,DEK 180,Icom IC200,G 696,GTX 327
more at: http://tinypic.com/4dukcbba
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Veetail88
Well Known Member
Panel coming along
Just thought I'd throw up a pic of my panel in progress.
Drew up the panel in AutoCad and then had the blank cut with a water jet.
Turned out great!
Waiting patiently for my AFS 4500 Deck to slip in the big hole.
Still need a 2-1/4" altimeter and compass.
This is the fun stuff to me. About to start wiring!!
Will post more when the panel is completely populted.
Just thought I'd throw up a pic of my panel in progress.
Drew up the panel in AutoCad and then had the blank cut with a water jet.
Turned out great!
Waiting patiently for my AFS 4500 Deck to slip in the big hole.
Still need a 2-1/4" altimeter and compass.
This is the fun stuff to me. About to start wiring!!
Will post more when the panel is completely populted.
panhandler1956
Well Known Member
Me too.
Here's my panel. I'm also waiting for my AFS, in this case it is a 3500EE (should be about another month).
Also there is view of the back if someone is curious about mounting the 696.
Here's my panel. I'm also waiting for my AFS, in this case it is a 3500EE (should be about another month).
Also there is view of the back if someone is curious about mounting the 696.
Bill Dicus
Well Known Member
Absolutely wonderful panel. With dual ADHARS you are all set. Have seen dual GRT's in Jim Phillip's plane and they are terrific. Know you are going to love this setup. Nice labeling as well. When do you hope to fly?
Bill
Bill
skylor
Well Known Member
Bill,
Thanks for the comments. I just have the single AHRS since the dual wasn't quite available when I purchased my EFIS. I have no near term plans to upgrade because my current AHRS location doesn't have quite enough room for the dual unit and since I have a real attitude gyro plus the trutrak autopilot, I don't feel that I need the redundancy of the dual AHRS.
I hope to fly before summer. I'm just trying to finish up a few miscellaneous items before moving to a phase 1 airport and doing all the finally assembly/flight prep stuff.
Skylor
panhandler1956
Well Known Member
my panel
Just stuck my panel in this weekend. Not powered completely yet (only the dynon and xponder are wired completely at this point).
The primary flight display is an AFS-3500EE (w/internal battery). The GPS/MFD is a 696. GPS/Com is a GNC-300XL, transponder is a GTX-327. Backup platform is a Dynon D60 (w/internal battery)
More to come.
Just stuck my panel in this weekend. Not powered completely yet (only the dynon and xponder are wired completely at this point).
The primary flight display is an AFS-3500EE (w/internal battery). The GPS/MFD is a 696. GPS/Com is a GNC-300XL, transponder is a GTX-327. Backup platform is a Dynon D60 (w/internal battery)
More to come.
Scott Hersha
Well Known Member
Very nice all glass cockpit Brent. I can't wait to see it all lit up. I like the openings in your gear towers. Wish I would have done that. I removed the web material between the bottom 2 holes, but leaving it completely open would have worked better. Looks like you must have a plate to cover the opening - great idea.
panhandler1956
Well Known Member
Thanks Scott! Yeah I 'borrowed' the idea from others on the forum. So far so good. I'll post another picture of the panel once everything is wired up.
Regards,
panhandler1956
Well Known Member
An update
Here's an update. My panel is now fully alive and no smoke. I still have to hook up the EMS and some other bits, but for now it's really cool to see everything on.
Here's an update. My panel is now fully alive and no smoke. I still have to hook up the EMS and some other bits, but for now it's really cool to see everything on.
Mike S
Senior Curmudgeon
panhandler1956
Well Known Member
HUD
Don,
I love that HUD. It would be cool if you could tell us more about it. Also, that throttle quadrant looks like it means business! Your plane turned out awesome! Enjoy!
Don,
I love that HUD. It would be cool if you could tell us more about it. Also, that throttle quadrant looks like it means business! Your plane turned out awesome! Enjoy!
Don Patrick
Well Known Member
That is one beautiful setup! Great work!
N8RV
Well Known Member
You guys are going to be SOOOO disappointed. The HUD is fake. 
Hey, you can't have a fighter without a HUD, right?
Actually, I found the vendor here on VAF. I searched high and low for the thread, but came up dry.
www.viperpit.org
A truly amazing site, actually. Some of these guys put a whole lot of work and talent into sims that will never leave the ground! The website owner has a business that makes various F-16 panels for simulators, and the simulated HUD was just what I needed for effect. Somebody out there will eventually make a working HUD for Dynons, I'm sure of it. Till then, it's just window dressing, sorry.
The throttle and stick grip are F-16 stock, and provide a pretty good HOTAS setup. I can start the engine and control trim, A/P disconnect, comms and flaps without taking my hands off the controls. The mirrors are from an F-14 and I found them in the Aeromart at Oshkosh many years ago.
I went for simplicity, function, redundancy and symmetry and, so far, I'm pretty happy with the result. All flight and engine info is presented in a form that is easy to interpret and everything works as advertised.
UPDATED PICTURE:
I added a pair of F-16 indexers to the glareshield -- the left one is AOA and the right one nosewheel steering/in-flight refueling (neither of which I need). All that's left is an ICP ...
Thanks for the kudos, everyone.
Fight's on. Tally ho, bogies at 12:00 low, closing fast. Too close for missles ... switching to guns. BRING IT ...
Hey, you can't have a fighter without a HUD, right?
Actually, I found the vendor here on VAF. I searched high and low for the thread, but came up dry.
www.viperpit.org
A truly amazing site, actually. Some of these guys put a whole lot of work and talent into sims that will never leave the ground! The website owner has a business that makes various F-16 panels for simulators, and the simulated HUD was just what I needed for effect. Somebody out there will eventually make a working HUD for Dynons, I'm sure of it. Till then, it's just window dressing, sorry.
The throttle and stick grip are F-16 stock, and provide a pretty good HOTAS setup. I can start the engine and control trim, A/P disconnect, comms and flaps without taking my hands off the controls. The mirrors are from an F-14 and I found them in the Aeromart at Oshkosh many years ago.
I went for simplicity, function, redundancy and symmetry and, so far, I'm pretty happy with the result. All flight and engine info is presented in a form that is easy to interpret and everything works as advertised.
UPDATED PICTURE:
I added a pair of F-16 indexers to the glareshield -- the left one is AOA and the right one nosewheel steering/in-flight refueling (neither of which I need). All that's left is an ICP ...
Thanks for the kudos, everyone.
Fight's on. Tally ho, bogies at 12:00 low, closing fast. Too close for missles ... switching to guns. BRING IT ...
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pierre smith
Well Known Member
"Heads-up Display"
....that shows your airspeed and other select info on the windshield, so you don't have to look down.
Best,
....that shows your airspeed and other select info on the windshield, so you don't have to look down.
Best,
flickroll
Well Known Member
Here's my panel after I cut the panel blank this weekend (about 20 hours worth of work....). Still more to do, but I have already wired and successfully bench tested all of the electronics as a system. Hope to have it in the air in 3 - 4 weeks. My plan is to have only about 1/4" or so of the avionics bezels protruding from the panel. The Airgizmos 696 panel dock has been slightly modified to allow that. The aircraft is powered by a Vertical Power VP-X system...received the VP-X box last Thursday, and all circuits worked perfectly, except for having to reverse the elevator trim motor wires for proper direction. The panel has the AFS 4500, but it is in the 3500 form factor. A tray mounted style 4500 would not have fit in this panel....as you can see panel real estate is at a premium. The autopilot is an AFS branded TT DigiFlight II VSVG (with pitch auto-trim), which is mounted in the left side panel. This panel replaces a VFR panel; the airplane has been down since mid March for the re-do, and the project included totally rewiring the airplane. The only original wires are the mag harnesses. It is coming together, and so far so good!
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panhandler1956
Well Known Member
nice!
Jim,
That's looks great! You certainly shoe-horned some nice equipment into that -8!
Can't wait to see it finished!
Brent
Jim,
That's looks great! You certainly shoe-horned some nice equipment into that -8!
Can't wait to see it finished!
Brent
Veetail88
Well Known Member
Jim,
I hope and assume you checked the fit of your panel into the actual airplane!
The reason I ask, is I had to make a second panel blank. When I had the first one cut on a waterjet, I'd messed up a dimension and the cutout for the radio stack came out very close to the bottom edge of the panel blank.
Thinking I could still use it, I went to the airport and tried to fit things together.
Problem was, with the bottom radio being so low, there was interference with the fuselage cross brace that sits right behind the panel.
Had to have a new blank cut to get the clearance.
I could have trimmed the flange on the cross member, but I didn't want to take anything away from the structure. Maybe it would have been OK, but I'm not an aircraft engineer.
Here's some pics. Hope it clarifies my point.
Original panel blank.
By veetail88 at 2010-05-19
Here's the second attempt.
By veetail88 at 2010-05-19
And here's how tight the bottom of the radios are in the end.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I also had to rearrange my stack so the backs of the radio's cleared the cross member at the baggage bulkhead.
Good luck.
I hope and assume you checked the fit of your panel into the actual airplane!
The reason I ask, is I had to make a second panel blank. When I had the first one cut on a waterjet, I'd messed up a dimension and the cutout for the radio stack came out very close to the bottom edge of the panel blank.
Thinking I could still use it, I went to the airport and tried to fit things together.
Problem was, with the bottom radio being so low, there was interference with the fuselage cross brace that sits right behind the panel.
Had to have a new blank cut to get the clearance.
I could have trimmed the flange on the cross member, but I didn't want to take anything away from the structure. Maybe it would have been OK, but I'm not an aircraft engineer.
Here's some pics. Hope it clarifies my point.
Original panel blank.
By veetail88 at 2010-05-19
Here's the second attempt.
By veetail88 at 2010-05-19
And here's how tight the bottom of the radios are in the end.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I also had to rearrange my stack so the backs of the radio's cleared the cross member at the baggage bulkhead.
Good luck.
Guy Prevost
Well Known Member
Rob must love you!
It looks like Rob Hickman must be getting a new boat, airplane or both! Nice panel!
It looks like Rob Hickman must be getting a new boat, airplane or both!
Nice panel!
Neal@F14
Well Known Member
The RV-8 panel I just wired up has a 430 exactly in that same center spot, and the connectors on the back of the 430 hit the cross brace. We notched out the cross brace for clearance and bolted a length of extruded 90 deg angle aluminum across the top of the notched out section of cross brace to regain the lost strength.
In Jims case he modified the connectors instead of modifying that crossbrace...I believe. Jim can chime in, but I think that's what he did. We modify lots of things in lots of RV's, but that brace along with the one between the gear towers are ones that we try really hard to not touch. Not saying you can't do it, just that we normally avoid it if at all possible.
Rob and I are going to split the new boat half and half (I passed as much of Jim's money through me as I could)!
Cheers,
Stein
Rob and I are going to split the new boat half and half (I passed as much of Jim's money through me as I could)!
Cheers,
Stein
flickroll
Well Known Member
Rob must love you! It looks like Rob Hickman must be getting a new boat, airplane or both!
Thanks! Not only does Rob love me, Stein does too!
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flickroll
Well Known Member
Hi Jesse
Yep it's a tight fit. My avionics trays clear the aft cross brace by about 1/8". My panel cuts start just up from the panel 90 deg bend (no metal was removed in the bend radius); looks like your first iteration was cut in the radius itself. It was a real puzzle getting all of that stuff to fit. I hope to have a picture of everything fired up by the end of the weekend. The bezels of the avionics stick out from the panel just 1/4" or so - I used 1-1/2" 1/16" angle to make the tray mounting brackets. The trays are recessed in the panel by 1/2" or so.
My panel was cut by hand....what a PITA!! Wish I had access to a water jet!
But, I have a tip for cutting straight lines by hand:
Cut close to the final mark by whatever method you want...grinding disc, files, whatever. Then, use a piece of 1/8" thick by 1" (or wider) 4130 plate that has a known STRAIGHT edge on it. I used a piece of bar stock from Spruce. Clamp the 4130 strip to the panel along your final trim line, then use a file to cut away the final amount, using the 4130 strip as a guide. The aluminum files away easily, the 1/8" 4130 doesn't. So with a little care you wind up with a perfectly straight line. Works for me really well, although it is time consuming.
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flickroll
Well Known Member
Stein is correct, one of the 430 rear connectors (comm) requires a 'field mod' to avoid interference with the forward cross brace in an RV-8 when the 430 is mounted 'center - low' as it is in my panel.
Take the stock connector off of the backplate for the comm port. Then take a 90 degree BNC crimp connector (MORE money to Stein
), and cut off the BNC nut using a hacksaw - make a small cut in the knurled part and then use a flat blade screwdriver (twist it) to open up the cut - the nut will pop right off. The mating connector you are left with is the same as the other 430 connectors on the inside of the backplate that the 430 slides on to. Save the spring washers, washer, and retaining ring for later use.I then used one each AN960-616 and AN960-616L stainless washers. The -616 washer is a light press fit in the connector hole on the back plate - you'll have to grind a flat spot on the washer to match the flat spot in the comm hole. Using a Dremel tool, I lightly ground down an area on the backside of the comm hole so that the modified connector would stick into the backplate to the same depth as the other connectors. I scuffed up the washers using coarse sandpaper, and lightly scuffed up the metal back plate. The AN960-616L washer is a little too big in diameter, so use a scotchbrite wheel to take off just enough so it will slide in the hole on the 430 side of the back plate. Using JB Weld, I bonded the washers to the comm hole. When the JB Weld started firming up, I lightly pressed the connector into the epoxy so as to make an indentation so it would later lay flat on the washer.
After the JB Weld was set up, I used a Dremel tool with a small grinding tip to dress up the inside of the back plate. I then used the washer, spring washers, and retaining clip (retained from the BNC nut removal) to hold the 90 deg connector in place. It is a slightly loose fit. This is good as you want a little play in all of the connectors so that the 430 will mate properly.
It sounds more complicated than it really is. I can post a picture later if anyone wants to see it....I'm out of town at the moment.
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flickroll
Well Known Member
Rob and I are going to split the new boat half and half (I passed as much of Jim's money through me as I could)!
Are you going to split it with a chainsaw Stein? Which half do you get?
Brantel
Well Known Member
Guy Prevost
Well Known Member
It sounds as if Rob buys any more toys, he's the one that's going to need the orthodontist!
