VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #261  
Old 02-08-2019, 08:48 PM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Longview, Wash
Posts: 270
Default

Another aspect I am considering is the use of a manual valve in the bypass loop, or the heater core loop.

They look like this.



Ross, do you or anyone out there have any experience with these... good or bad?

Seem like it would be easy way to adjust coolant flow, much like the purpose of the adjustable exit ramp after the radiator...

Charlie
Reply With Quote
  #262  
Old 02-08-2019, 09:02 PM
Hartstoc's Avatar
Hartstoc Hartstoc is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Sebastopol,CA
Posts: 348
Default

Charlie- Nice looking package! Do you happen to know the design duty-cycle of this engine? (time permitted at full power, or % power permissible for continuous operation). - Otis
__________________
Otis Holt-
RV-7A (bought)
Built Monnett Moni
Frmr Test Pilot/Author CAFE APR's:
RV-8A, S-7C, Europa, Glastar.
-2019 VAF donation!!-
"RV-Fun is inversely proportional to RV-Weight!"
Reply With Quote
  #263  
Old 02-08-2019, 09:10 PM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,279
Default

Charlie. I used one of these initially as a heater valve. When I did my big overhaul in 2013 I removed the heater core from behind the panel and all the coolant passing though the cockpit. I just took hot air off the heater core/ supplemental rad mounted FWF. Works well.

I'd just use a standard ball valve if you want to restrict coolant flow somewhere. Cheaper and more robust/ reliable.
__________________

Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 434.4 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


Reply With Quote
  #264  
Old 02-08-2019, 09:38 PM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Longview, Wash
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6ejguy View Post
Charlie. I used one of these initially as a heater valve. When I did my big overhaul in 2013 I removed the heater core from behind the panel and all the coolant passing though the cockpit. I just took hot air off the heater core/ supplemental rad mounted FWF. Works well.

I'd just use a standard ball valve if you want to restrict coolant flow somewhere. Cheaper and more robust/ reliable.
The heater core issue is a bit down the road for me but I do want to think it through and that helps. This engine actually has two bypass loops. I plan to put a heater core in one and duct the exit through the firewall for heater. Actually defrosting the windshield more than anything.

Charlie
Reply With Quote
  #265  
Old 02-08-2019, 09:47 PM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Longview, Wash
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hartstoc View Post
Charlie- Nice looking package! Do you happen to know the design duty-cycle of this engine? (time permitted at full power, or % power permissible for continuous operation). - Otis
Otis, welcome to the thread, and thank you for the kind words.

Your question is a good one and yet it is also one that if I am not careful, will cause this thread to spin out of control over the endless (and not solvable) debate.

It is like answering where is the ark of the covenant buried?!

There are those out there who have a firm stance that "alternative" engines cannot be relied on to run for extended periods of time at high output settings (75%+). Others believe that they can operative for well over a thousand hours at high outputs settings. Both have some research to support their positions, but mostly it is anecdotal.

Obviously since I chose to use a Honda Civil 1.8L engine. I am in the later camp.

I hope that answers your question to a limited degree and I also hope that others will resist the temptation to jump in and try to use this thread to crack open THAT Pandora's box. I just want to keep this thread as a venue to share what I am doing, and keep it fun and friendly.

Thanks again for posting and welcome to the project.

Charlie
Reply With Quote
  #266  
Old 02-09-2019, 06:10 AM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 8,746
Default

The highest stress on prop blades, propshaft, gearbox, coupler, crank, and engine accessory drives is unlikely be found at 75% or WOT. Nor will it be found at any static throttle position.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Reply With Quote
  #267  
Old 02-10-2019, 10:03 PM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Longview, Wash
Posts: 270
Default test fit with cowling

Here are two pics from the first fit of the engine in the cowling. The tough part for me was fitting this set up in a cowling that I made for a different engine. But, the good news is that it look like there will not have to be much modification for things to work out.

Nothing here is hooked up so don't be concerned about all the loose wires and hoses, etc.

Sorry for the hazy pic.



The turbo side. This will be the busy side. Turbo and exhaust, coolant tubes running down and around to a belly mounted radiator, and of course the outlet from the turbo that will be routed to the other side where the intake is....(and disregard the TB you see here. That will be routed lower to fit in the cowling.....

Lost to work on!!


Last edited by charosenz : 02-10-2019 at 10:11 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #268  
Old 02-10-2019, 10:19 PM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 1,097
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by charosenz View Post
Another aspect I am considering is the use of a manual valve in the bypass loop, or the heater core loop.

They look like this.



Ross, do you or anyone out there have any experience with these... good or bad?

Seem like it would be easy way to adjust coolant flow, much like the purpose of the adjustable exit ramp after the radiator...

Charlie
I can comment on that valve. It looks exactly like the heater valve used on millions of Ford vehicles, decades ago, including my 1970 Bronco. They do not throttle, even though upon visual inspection it appears that they should. Heater is on if the knob (cable actuated) is off the stop. After that it doesn't matter if it's wide open or just a tiny bit. in 25+ years and a couple of hundred thousand miles of ownership I've been through a few of them. Despite regular coolant replacement they eventually rot out and spew coolant. If you choose to use one anyway, be advised that they are also directional. Some aftermarket valves have an arrow indicating flow direction stamped on them, but not all. Run them backwards and they leak.
__________________
Lars Pedersen
Davis, CA
RV-7 Flying as of June 24, 2012
700+ hours as of October 1, 2018
Reply With Quote
  #269  
Old 02-11-2019, 06:58 AM
rv6ejguy's Avatar
rv6ejguy rv6ejguy is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,279
Default

Always an exciting part to put the cowling up and see how everything clears- or doesn't. Good to see the progress.
__________________

Ross Farnham, Calgary, Alberta
Turbo Subaru EJ22, SDS EFI, Marcotte M-300, IVO, Shorai- RV6A C-GVZX flying from CYBW since 2003- 434.4 hrs. on the Hobbs,
RV10 95% built- Sold 2016
http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
http://sdsefi.com/cpi2.htm


Reply With Quote
  #270  
Old 02-12-2019, 10:00 AM
charosenz's Avatar
charosenz charosenz is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Longview, Wash
Posts: 270
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars View Post
I can comment on that valve. It looks exactly like the heater valve used on millions of Ford vehicles, decades ago, including my 1970 Bronco. They do not throttle, even though upon visual inspection it appears that they should. Heater is on if the knob (cable actuated) is off the stop. After that it doesn't matter if it's wide open or just a tiny bit. in 25+ years and a couple of hundred thousand miles of ownership I've been through a few of them. Despite regular coolant replacement they eventually rot out and spew coolant. If you choose to use one anyway, be advised that they are also directional. Some aftermarket valves have an arrow indicating flow direction stamped on them, but not all. Run them backwards and they leak.
Thank you for sharing your results. I am still undecided on using it. It would have some advantages to have a valve in the heater core bypass, but I am also a fan of keeping it simple and not adding "things" that are not needed.

Charlie
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:24 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.