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  #11  
Old 02-09-2019, 07:04 PM
Nova RV Nova RV is offline
 
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Location: Leesburg, VA
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I would make sure the bus sits on the firewall as flush as possible to maximize the contact area between the bus and the firewall. Just my opinion, I'm sure one of the engineers here can give a good electrical explanation either pro or con.
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  #12  
Old 02-09-2019, 07:25 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
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Location: Riley TWP MI
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Quote:
Does this make any sense? Or is it a stupid idea?
Not a stupid idea. It shows ingenuity.
But I would not do it because a steel bolt is a poor electrical conductor.
Although a short steel bolt might not offer much resistance.
It will not look good.
How about replacing the nutplate with a nut and use a brass bolt?
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  #13  
Old 02-09-2019, 09:11 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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I use the technique you describe for holding prop balance weights on the inside of my spinner bulkhead. But, and it's a big but, I have access to both ends of the fastener.

If you use the technique on a firewall bolt, you lose control over the torque on the bolt itself. Any tightening torque you apply to a nut on the back side of a nutplate will be loosening torque on the bolt.

If you're serious about doing it, I'd look at the cross section resistance of a copper (or more realistically, brass) bolt vs steel, as others mentioned.

Charlie
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  #14  
Old 02-10-2019, 09:19 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
Bill--

what is that piece of green material that lines the lightning hole in the picture? I would like to line a couple of lightning holes in the bulkheads.

thanks
GROMMET EDGING - M22529/2 SERIES

This link to ACS will get you to them.
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2019, 12:49 PM
mikesierra mikesierra is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Cincinnati
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Another economical source for grommet edging;http://www.brownaircraft.com/product-p/ba-1n.htm
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  #16  
Old 02-10-2019, 12:53 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Ken,

I put my two Forest of Tab (FoT) ground blocks on either side of the firewall and bolted through them with brass bolts. This was done so I wouldn't have any potential (pun intended) grounding issues. After the wires were installed, they were drawn back to the side so they would not interfere with removing the battery.

What surprised me was that I need more tabs aft of the firewall and only used two tabs on the forward side.

Note, the AN bolts in these pictures were replaced with brass bolts, washers, and nuts.

Forward side -- Aft Side

(Click to enlarge)
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Last edited by N941WR : 02-10-2019 at 12:57 PM.
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  #17  
Old 02-10-2019, 04:09 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stockmanreef View Post
thanks. This clears things up for the ground. What gauge wire should connect the forest of wires to the battery ground?

Now I just have to figure out how the heck to attach the G3X shunt. It appears that it is connected to the master relay via a piece of copper, then, the two terminals connect to.....
Ken:

I'm assuming you're referring to the ammeter shunt. If you look at the 3rd picture on this page: https://turnerb14a.blogspot.com/2018...ol-cables.html you will see the shunt between the two feeds from the alternator and standby alternator, connected to the main cable that goes through the firewall to the main power relay. Vic Syracuse recommended this setup - we drew it on the firewall (photo here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/75yrjc82yg..._0187.jpg?dl=0) and I just copied that setup. As you can see I used ANL fuses for each alternator - I used short pieces of very heavy (6 ga) wire to connect each of these to the shunt. The shunt has a tiny amount of resistance and the two wires across this resistance measure current (at least that's the way I understand it).
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Last edited by mturnerb : 02-11-2019 at 04:17 AM.
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