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Need info converting a finished -7 to add a jettison canopy.

Rbb469

Active Member
I?ve searched the forums but yielded limited results.

How difficult is this process to add to a flying aircraft?

Does vans sell a complete kit?

My center stack consists of (ADV AP, GTN 650 2nd com) with a ADV 5600(left) and a D60 as a stby (rt side).

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ricky
 
You don't have a set of plans? The few parts required would be called out on them & the arrangement for installing also illustrated.

Difficulty would depend on how many parts the original builder omitted when putting the plane together, and how many components would have to be relocated on your panel to fit in the pull handle.
 
How difficult is this process to add to a flying aircraft?

Does vans sell a complete kit?

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ricky

Ricky as Ralph has mentioned that these parts are all listed in the plans. No Vans does not have a "kit" for the jettison handle and associated parts. Again as Ralph mentioned you'll have to verify exactly what is and isn't installed on the airframe. I do not know the depths of the equipment you listed so if they go thru the sub-panel where the jettison handle (and parts) are supposed to be (hence deletion of the handle and parts) then you'll need to relocate those. Pretty much a full panel / subpanel rebuild.

Here is DWG 47 for the 7 tip-up showing the parts needed to install. I would suggest that if you do not have the plans for this aircraft you order the CD from Vans. You should also ask for the instructions to this section of the build.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipNXWhcb49bJMb6EIhWd-Kdv0qh55IOz6h_c3yNI/photo/AF1QipO4Zo64UHeALBsNs3AL4VQc1YyAoy36PVWWZE5p

G8dvWbazVuMoKav1Gn3k5whBryULbxjqLJztnFr5VNVxCh-0nqsu0d5GDS_79WEGY1NFw08sQpiftjZI4Sd_f2-6xqQc88_Lb_55UP9uDjoC0ZbLOonaQ64DbC70Rrcc5ZJec1wesOeDamNO3C01uz59C3u89LtYOqNgYvClCwGNMkKl4rJXrYXlUsLEGFdSg2GD-ugIXUwIrSzcCZTVtIdxhfk8rWywgG-ap369XDbiFO7T2iONh4pBba6gJ8ZOiMS9_lloBuCYL7XxImaOmyoz8JZ-6jENpRe4hVn3QGlkq7F0YCrloEwhDpp2J8-foXMFK0dOe2VabUaxCD98XTBO9Jn8jHll546xbvdyrIwNqfY9-vhUjYBJS7_EINLuf95hd3UjJjHoUvlNNLJ3MhF2E-pFls7SAmY69mJ5-tRRqJe_5pANoPc2YgBsgnOMV252l-OcUgbj6ebdCs3C5oc6BV57gdXP_PxK1bc0RvnK-Va7y8Oz-_My-biGDS0eLAas3-dkdz7-qKJmpimxp22AAGxlBaDaLS8u-9Bfv7YGBg84LMBKrsNz6uq8iKcOz8q91Z5NDqJ4JduAcfcVUie2yyDaAduXZlCPS1fTqg=w946-h613-no
 
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Thank you very much guys for your detailed explanations. I will start by contacting the builder and ask him a few questions, then go from there.
Again, thanks for your time and reply! Ricky
 
In addition to the parts listed in the drawings, you will have to cut the top skins above each hinge. Then add a light layer of fiberglass and paint to cover the slots.

Good luck with the mod and may you never have to use it!
 
Wait!

The T-handle does not have to protrude through the instrument panel. You can use a Bowden cable or similar flexible cable to route the T-handle to any other place in the cockpit. This is a relatively easy mod to do on a finished airframe.
 
Pictures?

The T-handle does not have to protrude through the instrument panel. You can use a Bowden cable or similar flexible cable to route the T-handle to any other place in the cockpit. This is a relatively easy mod to do on a finished airframe.

We are trying to implement such a mod on our RV-7A. The stock T- handle does not play nicely with our modern glass panel. A Bowden cable was what we had also thought to use. Rather than reinvent the wheel, if someone has done this already - pictures of the actual installation would be very helpful. Thanks in advance!
 
Thanks for all your input guys! Great info!


The T-handle does not have to protrude through the instrument panel. You can use a Bowden cable or similar flexible cable to route the T-handle to any other place in the cockpit. This is a relatively easy mod to do on a finished airframe.

Do you personally know anyone that has used this flexible cable set-up? Contact info?

Thanks,
Ricky
 
I would wonder what happens to the lift strut bolt and connections, if one were to deploy the canopy.

Probably one would sheer before the other and the canopy would hit you in the head.
 
Here is what I did with my 7 tip-up.

I wanted to keep the sub-panel and handle but did not want it to go forward and thru my panel so I went vertical with a down tube to the bottom of the sub-panel where it is still easily accessible. I'll be adding a red knob at the bottom like the canopy release knob.

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/118224157449785360690/album/AF1QipNXWhcb49bJMb6EIhWd-Kdv0qh55IOz6h_c3yNI

FNhswLntmWCodK4nOHWfqQi-Sxhxp-Yt04uaIkAKKOel0t8NnaUbcx6oN7p_jK9jsmrRQdk6FojM2WUSbg=w282-h440


xxXAVM9ItFxcQNDmM_Kl-T7KIjoiajZVR27b6EeZcksrS8u85kLr_fcI6RHBowcYXGvZesFnc_3Zerp03w=w280-h440

Looks great and thanks for the pics. Did you install this during the build or after it was flying? Also, did you have to cut the skin above the hinges?

Thanks again,
Ricky
 
Great info. I too have considered doing an 'after the fact' canopy release install not for an IAC requirement or acro/parachute reason but mainly for a water landing. Every RV water landing I have seen online ends upside down in the water. Jettisoning the canopy before impact or even in the water, seems like a good way to increase my chances of quick egress in the water.

Does this sound like appropriate logic?
 
Here is what I did with my 7 tip-up.

I wanted to keep the sub-panel and handle but did not want it to go forward and thru my panel so I went vertical with a down tube to the bottom of the sub-panel where it is still easily accessible. I'll be adding a red knob at the bottom like the canopy release knob.

https://get.google.com/albumarchive/118224157449785360690/album/AF1QipNXWhcb49bJMb6EIhWd-Kdv0qh55IOz6h_c3yNI

FNhswLntmWCodK4nOHWfqQi-Sxhxp-Yt04uaIkAKKOel0t8NnaUbcx6oN7p_jK9jsmrRQdk6FojM2WUSbg=w282-h440


xxXAVM9ItFxcQNDmM_Kl-T7KIjoiajZVR27b6EeZcksrS8u85kLr_fcI6RHBowcYXGvZesFnc_3Zerp03w=w280-h440

I think that is an elegant solution. Unfortunately the GTN needs to go through the area and interferes with the vertical rod.
 
I think that is an elegant solution. Unfortunately the GTN needs to go through the area and interferes with the vertical rod.

Exactly our issue as well. I was hoping for pictures of how someone modified the Van's canopy release and connected a Bowden cable to the actuator arm. We have some general thoughts as to how to implement this, but I'm always happy to copy someone else's good ideas.

Anyone have pictures of a cable operated release?
 
Here is how we did it

I wasn't able to get any practical ideas on the forum, so I came up with a possible solution. We worked through a couple of issues out at Synergy and ultimately developed a usable jettison mechanism.

We had wanted to use a threaded-end push-pull cable like this one from ACS, but due to the requirement for a good bit of movement at the actuator arm, we ended up with a Bowden cable. It works well for the pull (jettison), not so much on the push (to reinsert the pins). For that we have to reach under and help rotate the actuator arm as we are pushing the cable in. Given that the primary goal of the solution was an emergency jettison mechanism, we accepted the compromise for the very occasional requirement to remove and reinstall the canopy on the ground.

We located the handle on the sub panel above the pilot's left knee and has a locking button - so the likelihood of inadvertent actuation is fairly low.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2cqmjduasz86rbm/AAD5x3AGnj6LHXLWj832vT8za?dl=0

Sorry about the blurry pictures.
 
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Great info. I too have considered doing an 'after the fact' canopy release install not for an IAC requirement or acro/parachute reason but mainly for a water landing. Every RV water landing I have seen online ends upside down in the water. Jettisoning the canopy before impact or even in the water, seems like a good way to increase my chances of quick egress in the water.

Does this sound like appropriate logic?

Anything we say about jettisoning the canopy for a water ditching is speculation because we don't have data from actual events. The video of a water ditching that was circulating the past year of so illustrated the extremely violent impact when the RV hit the water upside-down. I can't imagine a pilot retaining consciousness (or survival?) if withstanding an impact like that without the protection of the canopy.

More speculation--during a canopy ejection while airborne, the canopy would probably rip the struts loose. Ejecting the canopy under water would not have the airloads needed to sever the lift strut attachments.

I hope we never have to test these theories.....
 
Does anyone know of a successful jettisoning of an RV6 or 7 canopy?
Only attempt I have heard of was a very early 6 in which the pilot was being overcome with fuel fumes due to a serious fuel leak.
I am told that although it had the slotted top skins and handle for release, when he pulled the handles the canopy stayed in place. He put a foot against the canopy but still could not move it. Managed to land it safely after getting enough air through the vent.
This suggests fitting the jettison handle is a waste of time, hence my question.

As far as ejecting the canopy when upside down in water is concerned, there is NO CHANCE of moving the canopy until the cockpit is full of water. The sooner you break the canopy and fill it the sooner you have any chance of getting out. Meanwhile you need to hold your breath! The plane is now a boat and the canopy is the bottom of the boat and supporting the plane until it sinks completely.
A friend of mine put a Corby Starlet single seat, very small aircraft into the ocean and it flipped. He is a strong guy but had to hold his breath until it sank far enough for the wings to take the weight before he could open the tiny bubble canopy. He was in shallow water and worried it would be on the sand before he got it open. A sobering thought, lucky to survive.
I know of RV4 canopies self ejecting but have never heard of a 6 or 7 canopy being ejected.
Brian
 
The caps could be popped off the pins while the canopy is closed, and before you pull the handle.
If the Canopy lets go, those struts will rip right out.

...
As far as ejecting the canopy when upside down in water is concerned, there is NO CHANCE of moving the canopy until the cockpit is full of water. The sooner you break the canopy and fill it the sooner you have any chance of getting out. Meanwhile you need to hold your breath! The plane is now a boat and the canopy is the bottom of the boat and supporting the plane until it sinks completely....
Brian
I plan to open the canopy in flight, should this ever happen to me, and the canopy will float in trail. (I've tested this during my 40.)

I suspect / hope that on "landing" in the water, the canopy will flip forward with enough force to shatter. Then when the plane is upside down, it will be much easier to get out of.

The other option, of course, is to not fly over open water.
 
If the Canopy lets go, those struts will rip right out.
That's my expectation as well.

I plan to open the canopy in flight...on "landing" in the water, the canopy will flip forward with enough force to shatter.
With the canopy release pulled, I hope it would flip forward with enough force to *depart* the aircraft before it flips over. I suspect pulling the release in flight would not cause it to leave the aircraft without some finagling with angle of attack and pushing to get the aft end up.

I honestly don't want it gone in flight unless i'm wearing my helmet... I suspect the airflow blowing on your face would make it almost impossible to fly the plane.
 
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