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Microphone and Headphone Jacks

MartySantic

MartySantic

Well Known Member
Went to install the headset jacks. The mic jack requires an ISO washer (this is listed on Jim Cones MIA list so it will be coming) and a stepped washer for the jack (NOT listed on Jim Cones list). Did anyone receive the stepped washer? Will need 2.

ALSO, on the pilot side attached to each lug on the audio jack are short 3" wires that are just hanging. I could explain them if they were on the co-pilot side as the plans give you the option of installing a 1/8" jack to record audio on a camcorder. The 1/8" jack is just paralleled with the co-pilot audio jack.

Should I cut-off the 3" stubs?
 
My wiring experience

My rudder pedals had insufficient taps on the master cyl, so I had to pull them, replace the 2 master cyl, and put them back in, then pull them out again per Marty :)

Marty, I had the isolater washers for the mic jacks. A black one with a ridge goes on the bottom, and a fiber one goes on top. I think it's to prevent ground loops (the hum kind)
The headphone jack is bigger and gets grounded.

On my harness, the pilot and co-pilot headphone harness labels were backwards, go by length and the co-pilot has the pigtails. I will make a plug in adapter with 47k resistors if I need to make a video.

I talked to someone at Vans and they implied it might be ok to put spade lugs in series with the stick PTT connection, so I ran my stick PTT without installing my sticks.

I just pushed #18 wire up from the bottom of the stick for a pull wire, I just put a little bend in the tip to start it around the 90.

The called out 3/8" cushioned clamps that go on either side of the rudder block were not big enough. I used a 5/8 for one harness with all the colored wires, and a #3/8" for the static and coax(and its really tight). I put the center rudder block in so I could verify clearance. If you tie the 2 bundles back into 1 you will not be able to install/ service the rudder pedals.

The wiring harness is too short to go back along the firewall so I tried to make a nice bundle between the rudder horns.

In my harness, the autopilot disconnect already had pins in the connector and pigtails for the black and white wires and the A/P switch also had pins, so I was confused for a bit.

John
 
John, thanks so much for the detailed reply.

The plans say the co-pilot harness is 1" longer than the pilot harness. I measured mine and the labeling is in accordance with this. (Page 31-10, Step 4). Yet my pilot harness has the 3" wires that were most likely intended for the 1/8" jack to record audio. (As I will not install the 1/8" jack and if the need ever arises I will build an adapter w/ the 47K resistors.) So I am going to cut off the 3" wires.

WHERE did you find the headphone jack stepped washer and the headphone jack ISOLATOR washer per Figure 1 on Page 31-10? They were not attached to the jacks that were supplied to me. Were they in one of the parts bags? And I agree with you, they are necessary to prevent humm in the audio system. Might have to call Van's.

With regard to the stick PTT wiring, I performed Steps 2-5 on Page 32-05 before I installed the PTT switches and the associated wiring. Hope the sticks are in there for good.

I used Jim Cone's method to get a string thru the control sticks. A small piece of cotton on the end of heavy duty thread, and, then sucked it thru with the shop vacuum cleaner. Took a couple of tries. The bends are torture. Attached a piece of coated twine and pulled the twine via the thread. Then pulled the wires thru.

I have an awful lot of cable above the panel at this time. Hope there will be enough once I try to re-install the pedals. The plans tell us we may have to form the clamps into an oval shape. Have not tried it yet, but it will come here shortly.

The auto-pilot wiring also confused me. Had to remove the existing white and black wires from the DB connector and then install the longer black and white wires with attached pins from the auto-pilot disconnect switch.

Let me know about the washers!!!!!
 
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okiejohn said:
The wiring harness is too short to go back along the firewall so I tried to make a nice bundle between the rudder horns.
John
Click to expand...
John,

Just noticed this in your posting. I have an awful lot of wiring extending on top of the panel. Maybe the plans tell you to leave such an extent of wire on top of the shelf to allow you to drop some it when you try to wrap the wiring on top of the pedals as specified in the plans.

I think another nice gauge is the position of the red wire going to the fuel pump. If you can put a small loop in it at the fuel pump, as specified in the plans and pull the rest forward it should be positioned correctly. Same for the other bundle.

Anyone else having a problem with short harnesses?
 
Marty:

In the plans, it gives exact lengths the DB 37 and 25 need to extend from the grommet. It's surprisingly long.

If you are building E/AB you can lay out the circuit board that the DB-37 connects to however you want, but I think we better leave the correct amount above the panel base.

I decided my rudder pedals were going to interfere with the 5/8" clamp, so I ovaled a 3/8" one per the instructions. I then wrapped my colored wire bundle with teflon tape, to make it tight and to avoid abrasion from the rudder pedals.

Now when I slide the pedals back they hit the cushioned clamps on both sides. I thought about grinding down the tunnel ribs a bit, as it looks like the clamps fit between the two rudder shafts, you just can't get them there. I might have to put shims above the pivot blocks.

I will upload pics.
 
okiejohn said:
In the plans, it gives exact lengths the DB 37 and 25 need to extend from the grommet. It's surprisingly long.
Click to expand...

This would be a good question for the folks at Van's or possibly Jim Cone as he is past this point and I think he has reinstalled the pedals. That is, Can we use some of that extra length above the grommet to allow for installation of the wiring forward of the pedals all the way to the firewall.

If I cannot use some of the wiring above the grommet I will be in the same position (There is not enough to put it all forward to the firewall).

I would think it be best to have all of the wiring and tubing forward of the pedals to avoid any possibility for entanglement in the rudder cables. Send me your e-mail address.

Looking at your pictures, I recall reading in the plans that we have to "squash" the clamps into an oval shape and then do the same with the wire bundles to get the clamps and wiring to clear. I see you did that but, another possibility, orientate the clamps outboard (with Van's permission)?
 
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