My FAA certification inspector suggested closing or covering the lightening holes at each end of the horizontal stabilizer. Has anyone done this? Glass over it? Tape? Leave it open? His concern was birds or water getting in. (He did give me the airworthiness certificate..)
Van's Air Force
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Close off lightening holes at ends of horizontal stab?
- Thread starter bob888
- Start date
Nukeflyboy
Well Known Member
HS holes
I have seen it both ways. Mine are not covered but my a/c is hangared. If yours will spend time outside I would consider it. A high quality clear tape would work. Water drains out OK between the skin and outboard rib (tight, but not water tight).
I would not use a plug or anything that could come out and jam the elevator. Better left alone than do something seriously dangerous.
I have seen it both ways. Mine are not covered but my a/c is hangared. If yours will spend time outside I would consider it. A high quality clear tape would work. Water drains out OK between the skin and outboard rib (tight, but not water tight).
I would not use a plug or anything that could come out and jam the elevator. Better left alone than do something seriously dangerous.
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
First off - Congrats! Like Dave, I've seen it both ways (glassed over, alum tape, alum covers). I don't think it's worth the effort and chose not to and haven't had any issues (although mine is hangared).
EDIT: I have never experienced any buffeting or elevator shake that others apparently have.
EDIT: I have never experienced any buffeting or elevator shake that others apparently have.
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Covering H-stab end rib holes
On an aircraft that I had previously the end ribs in the H-Stab called for aluminum tape and I think that was mainly to keep water and dust out. That aircraft had a different mission to be used on floats or tail wheel bush plane neither of which suits the RV-10 that well. Anyway, since that plane had it I decided to put aluminum tape over the holes on my RV-10 because I read somewhere it could prevent buffeting at high speeds that can sometimes occur. I've never experienced buffeting with our without the tape. It's not needed on this aircraft in my opinion. If you tie down outside regularly maybe it would be useful to keep bugs from nesting in there.
On an aircraft that I had previously the end ribs in the H-Stab called for aluminum tape and I think that was mainly to keep water and dust out. That aircraft had a different mission to be used on floats or tail wheel bush plane neither of which suits the RV-10 that well. Anyway, since that plane had it I decided to put aluminum tape over the holes on my RV-10 because I read somewhere it could prevent buffeting at high speeds that can sometimes occur. I've never experienced buffeting with our without the tape. It's not needed on this aircraft in my opinion. If you tie down outside regularly maybe it would be useful to keep bugs from nesting in there.
David Paule
Well Known Member
Or just vinyl tape from a hardware store.
One thing that does work well is to use mylar drafting film. One side is rough for a pencil (this is old school) and bonds very well using Pliobond contact cement. I have some on my old Cessna that's aged quite well, more than 20 years, in a similar location.
Might be hard to find these days, though.
Dave
One thing that does work well is to use mylar drafting film. One side is rough for a pencil (this is old school) and bonds very well using Pliobond contact cement. I have some on my old Cessna that's aged quite well, more than 20 years, in a similar location.
Might be hard to find these days, though.
Dave
bruceh
Well Known Member
I cut out circles of aluminum from the scrap bundle. The circles were slightly smaller than the HS rear spar lightening holes, so they were easy to get inside the HS, but they are larger than the rib lightening holes, so no chance of them exiting from the side. I put a bead of pro-seal around the perimeter and taped them in place until it cured.
I used auto style blanking plugs. (the sort you may find fitted in the drain holes in your cars trunk) was careful to get the correct size so a nice firm fit. These fit neatly in the hole with flanges on both sides of the rib. As an extra precaution I contact glued them in so not relying on just the neat fit. No sign of them moving after 150 hours. Put them in because a local RV10 experienced a little uninitiated elevator shake in level cruise that was minimised when the holes were covered with tape. Ive never flown my RV10 with the holes unplugged, elevator/stick is free of any vibration or movement in all phases of flight. Cheers from Western Australia
rv7charlie
Well Known Member
The ones on my -4 are open, and during one annual the a&p made me remove an elevator to get the (now loose) dirt dauber nest out of it. The plane is always hangared, but nothing stops those critters here in MS. Something to consider....
You could always proseal some aluminum window screen over the holes, to keep from trapping moisture inside.
Charlie
You could always proseal some aluminum window screen over the holes, to keep from trapping moisture inside.
Charlie
Pat Stewart
Well Known Member
EDIT: I have never experienced any buffeting or elevator shake that others apparently have.[/QUOTE]
A little off topic but have you ever stalled the 10 and looked over your shoulder at the Horizontal Stab.
A little off topic but have you ever stalled the 10 and looked over your shoulder at the Horizontal Stab.
Carl Froehlich
Well Known Member
I never liked the look of ribs showing on the HS, VS, elevators, ailerons, flaps and wing tip trailing edge.
I used a piece of ridged foam in each end rib, the foam perhaps 1/8" smaller than the rib. The foam is put in with some micro balloons just to hold it for the next step. I did a 4 bid layup that goes over the foam and edges tuck in the 1/8" space between the foam and skin. Leave the glass just below the flush level of the skin. After set, a couple of skim coats of micro on top of the glass then sand flush.
I use a small straw on the trailing end to leave a 1/8" hole for water to drain out.
Carl
I used a piece of ridged foam in each end rib, the foam perhaps 1/8" smaller than the rib. The foam is put in with some micro balloons just to hold it for the next step. I did a 4 bid layup that goes over the foam and edges tuck in the 1/8" space between the foam and skin. Leave the glass just below the flush level of the skin. After set, a couple of skim coats of micro on top of the glass then sand flush.
I use a small straw on the trailing end to leave a 1/8" hole for water to drain out.
Carl
Auburntsts
Well Known Member
Nope--but I don't routinely stall it either. Still see no reason to close off those holes and don't plan to.
