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  #1  
Old 08-17-2019, 01:42 PM
tcbetka tcbetka is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GREEN BAY
Posts: 50
Default Work table size?

Hi all,

Getting ready to start on the RV-10 as soon as the empennage kit arrives. I need to build a work table for the project, as I really don't have a good surface of any significant size. Since the tail kit won't be here for another couple of weeks, I have some time. But what's the "optimal" size for such a table?

Watching a number of YouTube build channels, I've seen a variety of table sizes. I was sort of thinking about just using the full length of a sheet of plywood, but maybe cutting the width down to like 32-36"...something like that. Much wider than 36" and you can't really reach across it easily, I've found.

I am also planning to build a little table/shelf over the DRDT-2 frame, so that I can support the skins being dimpled. I'll be doing the vast majority of the work on my own for this project, so having ergonomic work surfaces will be a huge help.

Thanks for any tips you guys might offer.

TB
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RV-10 #42064
Green Bay, WI
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2019, 02:20 PM
John-G John-G is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 638
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TB-

I built two workbenches 6'x3' and found they worked nicely for my RV-12 build. Built a third smaller workbench not quite as deep dedicated to power tools ... Scotch-Brite wheel station, drill press, band saw and grinder.

Suggest once you have decided on the size bench you are going with plan on having the top surface of the workbench overlap the base by 4" to 6" to allow for easy clamping of thicker items to the work surface ... if you have no overlapping edge, the top will be sitting on a 2x4 ... so you lose 4" of clamping ability from all your clamps.

Depending on your age, you may also want to consider making at least one of your benches lower than standard so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool and do most of the work like deburring, countersinking and riveting of small parts and assemblies while seated .... without the need to lean over the bench for hours while standing. In fact, I made both my workbenches low ... it is easy to raise them when it is necessary.

Suggest you also consider placing the workbench(s) on sturdy locking wheels. You will find yourself needing to move the benches around during various phases of the build. In fact, I placed everything on wheels all three workbenches, plans table and parts rack ... made rearranging the shop a snap.

Happy building,
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Last edited by John-G : 08-17-2019 at 02:23 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2019, 02:42 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,411
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For the RV-10 I liked the following setup:
- one 8’x3’ table, 36” tall
- one 8’x3’ table, 26” tall
- one 4’x6’ table, 36” tall on wheels

The table on wheels was the “do the sub assembly” table. The 36’ tall table was for things like wing assembly. The 26” tall table was exactly right for stuff like fitting out the RV-10 tail cone and then mating with the forward fuselage section.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2019, 02:50 PM
tcbetka tcbetka is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GREEN BAY
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John-G View Post
TB-

I built two workbenches 6'x3' and found they worked nicely for my RV-12 build. Built a third smaller workbench not quite as deep dedicated to power tools ... Scotch-Brite wheel station, drill press, band saw and grinder.

Suggest once you have decided on the size bench you are going with plan on having the top surface of the workbench overlap the base by 4" to 6" to allow for easy clamping of thicker items to the work surface ... if you have no overlapping edge, the top will be sitting on a 2x4 ... so you lose 4" of clamping ability from all your clamps.

Depending on your age, you may also want to consider making at least one of your benches lower than standard so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool and do most of the work like deburring, countersinking and riveting of small parts and assemblies while seated .... without the need to lean over the bench for hours while standing. In fact, I made both my workbenches low ... it is easy to raise them when it is necessary.

Suggest you also consider placing the workbench(s) on sturdy locking wheels. You will find yourself needing to move the benches around during various phases of the build. In fact, I placed everything on wheels all three workbenches, plans table and parts rack ... made rearranging the shop a snap.

Happy building,
Thanks John--good tips. I sit for pretty much everything, for the most part. Two fake knees and a stiff back taught me the value of a good work stool many years ago. I also do a fair bit of welding, and of course it's much easier to stabilize one's hand(s) while seated.

TB
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2019, 02:58 PM
tcbetka tcbetka is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GREEN BAY
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
For the RV-10 I liked the following setup:
- one 8’x3’ table, 36” tall
- one 8’x3’ table, 26” tall
- one 4’x6’ table, 36” tall on wheels

The table on wheels was the “do the sub assembly” table. The 36’ tall table was for things like wing assembly. The 26” tall table was exactly right for stuff like fitting out the RV-10 tail cone and then mating with the forward fuselage section.

Carl
I like your 8' x 3' table size Carl, thanks. That's pretty much what I was thinking too. I have a 36" x 72" rolling table now, for just what was mentioned by John--power tools and what-not. Good also for "overflow" assembly.

I just sold a lathe in my shop today, and the buyer picked it up. I have a 10" lathe left, and a Bridgeport mill, but this 13" lathe wasn't being used and I needed the room...so I sold it. Now that it's gone though, it's time to get serious about building a work table for the pending work. I also have a 36" Pexto sheet metal shear that I had been trying to sell, before I decided to build the RV-10. Luckily, every person who was "interested" either wanted to trade me a bunch of **** I had absolutely no use for (who in the heck wants a VW Bug restoration project?!?), or they'd say "Well...I really wanted a 48" shear" and pass. So it never sold--I guess things happen for a reason, because now that the lathe is gone, I have plenty of room to set the thing in that spot and actually be able to use it and the back gauge I have for it!

I also just ordered a bunch of tools for the build too. Man, how did I ever get along without a pneumatic rivet set, lol... I still have a hand squeezer for edge-riveting, but I'll be using the pneumatic setter as much as possible, I can tell you that.

TB

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I found some plans for the EAA Worktable, and plan to base this worktable on those. At least it gives me something to go on. I'll just scale them to the 3'x8' size in Solidworks, and come up with a BOM...then knock it out.
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RV-10 #42064
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Last edited by tcbetka : 08-17-2019 at 03:03 PM.
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2019, 03:21 PM
RV10Pilot RV10Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Medford, NJ USA
Posts: 259
Default Work Tables

I have way too many tables and they are all filled with tools and parts. The more you have just creates an opportunity to not put stuff away and just let it pile up. You do not need the table space I have.

I had two solid core doors laying around so that dictated the table depth at 30 inches which works well for me. But I do not have anything stored on the back of the table, like bins of storage trays. I need / want the entire 30" for the work I am doing.

1) 30x76" - 35" tall EAA style base
2) 30x80 - 35" tall EAA style base
3) 30x59 - 35" tall has a 1/4" steel plate on half of it and it is on wheels
4) 30x30 - 31" tall for vice, belt sander and drill press and band saw
5) 4x8 sheet of plywood on an old kitchen table so it is 30 3/4" tall.
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2019, 03:35 PM
rv9builder rv9builder is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 853
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EAA Chapter 1000 published plans for a workbench measuring 24”x60.” I like the narrow width but wanted more length, so I made two benches 24”x90” from one piece of 4’x8’ plywood. As John suggests, I made the support frame a few inches narrower than the top to make clamping easier. The benches are easy to move around the garage, and when I need something wider, I push the two benches next to each other for a single work surface 48 inches wide.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/worktabl.htm

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/tablefig.htm
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  #8  
Old 08-17-2019, 03:37 PM
tcbetka tcbetka is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GREEN BAY
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV10Pilot View Post
I have way too many tables and they are all filled with tools and parts. The more you have just creates an opportunity to not put stuff away and just let it pile up.... SNIP
Boy, ain't that the truth...

Two tables is all I'm going to have. I have a couple U-Line work "desk"-type tables, but those are not going to be used for building per se. But the one table that's on rollers will have power tools bolted to it, thus making it easier to move to a convenient location depending upon the work being accomplished at the time.

TB
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RV-10 #42064
Green Bay, WI
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2019, 03:40 PM
tcbetka tcbetka is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: GREEN BAY
Posts: 50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv9builder View Post
EAA Chapter 1000 published plans for a workbench measuring 24”x60.” I like the narrow width but wanted more length, so I made two benches 24”x90” from one piece of 4’x8’ plywood. As John suggests, I made the support frame a few inches narrower than the top to make clamping easier. The benches are easy to move around the garage, and when I need something wider, I push the two benches next to each other for a single work surface 48 inches wide.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/worktabl.htm

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/w...l/tablefig.htm
I like a 2-3" overhang to clamp stuff on, indeed. All the tables I have built have at least two edges like that. So I'll adjust the plans accordingly. By using Solidworks, you can easily generate a BOM for the project--which makes it much easier if you have someone helping you on the project.

TB
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RV-10 #42064
Green Bay, WI
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2019, 03:43 PM
JDA_BTR JDA_BTR is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 1,005
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I built two EAA benches. I put a shoulder of sorts on one so that my DRDT-2 fits on the end at the right height to dimple with the table holding the work on a table-size workbox pad. I liked it because I could put the tables on length to hold a long thing, or on a 90 for others. I also took a large MDF piece and screwed it to both of them to make a single table for a large part of the build. The MDF overhung for clamps and such and when I drilled holes in it I didn't care too much. I took it on and off a few times. MDF has the advantage of being dead flat if you screw it to even surfaces.

Then HF had their wood workbenches on sale. I got two of those. Great for general purpose, and for drill press and all. But all the building was on the EAA benches. Super sturdy zero hassle.
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