Pro-seal for wire tie mounts?

I've decided to use the little plastic squares to attach plastic wire ties to secure my wiring. They allow a lot of flexibility and weight less than .04 oz. each. However, the foam self-stick mounting they come with is obviously not an appropriate choice for long term use in an airplane. The stock mounting foam is easy to remove and I was considering using proseal to adhere these to the skin in its place. Has anyone tried this or see an issue?? My experience is that the proseal is pretty tenacious stuff and we know it's compatible with our aluminum skins.

I work in an avionics shop and on the odd occasion that we use those we secure them with contact cement. But I dont see any reason why proseal would not work just as well if not better.

rivet-on alternative

Try these (style F, small screw): http://www.fastener.averydennison.com/sub.aspx?id=598

I just bought another pack of 100 from McMaster-Carr, part number 7566K12, for $9.94. Tyco/AMP makes them also; Allied Electronics carries them for less, but I can get stuff from McMaster-Carr overnight and Allied is over a week.

I use CS4-4 blind rivets to install them. Quick n' easy, no adhesive to let go. They are all over my -7 build. With the obvious limitation that you aren't going to install them on the outer skin anywhere

Edit: I just looked more closely at the Avery Dennison link. The length dimension they show is way off. The width should be 0.340, not 1.340!

Proseal would work, but kind of overkill. Shoegoo or "E6000" adhesive is cheap, easy, readily available and effective. Good for the skins too. Many have used this besides myself.

Erich

I use those also. I remove the adhesive backing and clean them very well with mek, then scuff them with 80 grit. I do the same on the surface they are getting mounted to and then I use 2 part epoxy 5 min. available on the aviation isle of home depot or lowe's. Works well for me. Proseal is an excellent choice also, you will not have any problem with that for sure. Remember to clean very well. happy building

bird

Yup

erich weaver said:

Shoegoo

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........x2

E6000 is awesome, cheap and easy.

http://www.theflightshop.com/PDFDocs/cb3019.pdf
http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx28.html

Proseal

works great. After four years of flying, the anchors have stayed put.






Bill
RV-7 N151WP
Lee's Summit, MO

I used them with

Clear RTV.

Seems to work fine.

Thank you...

Thanks for all the input guys... don't know what I'd do without this site. I don't think a building day goes by without referring to one post or another for info. It's great a community! - Mark

3M VHB tape

VHB tape from 3M works great on these type of tie wrap holders. Be sure to clean up mounting surface with MEK or something similar. We use them to hold static lines where there was no place to insert a tie wrap through a hole or mechanical attach point. I will post some photos later.

I successfully used Goop Automotive Trim Adhesive, available from your local auto parts retailer.

My thinking was that if it is good enough to hold trim on a black car for years without coming off, it will work just fine inside your plane. So far, I haven?t had a problem with it.

Regardless of which adhesive you use, remove the sticky pad, as already mentioned. Then clean the surfaces to be glued. I simply used rubbing alcohol to remove any oils or grime.

Two tips for you:
1. One tip that hasn?t been mentioned, and this is one reason I like the Goop ATA. Make sure you put a zip tie in place before apply your adhesive. The reason is that some of the adhesive will push up through the zip-tie pad and can close off the holes in the pad. With the zip-tie installed, you should be able to pull it out and/or position it where you need. This may not work if you use pro-seal but works fine with the Goop ATA.

2. Place your zip-tie pads every six inches or less. Four inches is probably ideal. I didn?t when I first built my plane and during the first condition inspection I noticed that the wires were rubbing on the skins.

3 Under the panel, install a bunch of K1000-8 plate nuts on the bottom of the sub-panel and along the ribs that lead to the firewall. This will allow you to add adel clamps along those structural members to support the wires running to and from your instrument panel like this:

N941WR said:

......
3 Under the panel, install a bunch of K1000-8 plate nuts on the bottom of the sub-panel and along the ribs that lead to the firewall. This will allow you to add adel clamps along those structural members to support the wires running to and from your instrument panel like this:
<snip>

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Also those same K100-8 nutplates (or the floating equivalents) can hold cross angles to mount stuff on behind the sub-panel.

This is a Skyview EMS module attached to two cross 3/4 x 1/16 angles stock on my -6A. Mounted "upwards" for later access from below.

Great Idea

Wow, Bill and Gil, what a great idea, just install a bunch of nut plates at various places under the panel, much easier to do it now, than later. Even if you don?t use them all right away, they?ll be handy as heck at some point down the road!

As promised

Here is a photo of where we used VHB tape to adhere those tie wrap squares. I also like the proseal approach but wanted to have instant bonding without the mess.

Experimental Chaos said:

Wow, Bill and Gil, what a great idea, just install a bunch of nut plates at various places under the panel, much easier to do it now, than later. Even if you don?t use them all right away, they?ll be handy as heck at some point down the road!

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The other trick I like is to use cap screws to hold things to those plate nuts. It makes it much easier to remove and install them later than a pan-head screw, when doing maintenance while laying on your back, working under the panel.

Mark,
My experience with these tie mounts is that the adhesive foam on the back will stick to the airplane surface, but over time the mount will pull away from the foam if there is any stress at all on the mount. You'll be left with a free-floating tie wrap mount, and a little white square of adhesive on the aluminum.
I prefer to pop-rivet the mounts to ribs & internal structures. For mounting to floor and side skins, I scrape away the adhesive backing and rough up both surfaces and then put a dab of ProSeal in the center and overlapping the sides of the mount. If you try to mount on a smooth surface, they will pull away over time if there is any stress on the mount even if you use ProSeal or JB Weld.
Good luck,
Waldo

Another vote for E6000. The stuff holds great and dries in minutes. Rough up both surfaces with 60 grit.

N941WR said:

The other trick I like is to use cap screws to hold things to those plate nuts. It makes it much easier to remove and install them later than a pan-head screw, when doing maintenance while laying on your back, working under the panel.

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Yep... I forgot to mention that.

There are cap screws hiding in my picture...