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Removing cured pro-seal

sundog04

Member
For those that have had to remove the T-408 cover plate inorder to safety wire the fuel pickup tubes (SB 06-2-23), what is the best method to remove/clean the cured pro-seal. I confess that I used the "more is better" method. Now I wish I had been a little neater.

Thanks,
Mike Morris
[email protected]
 
plexi canopy scrap

sharpened in to a chisel, then scraped it all off. then carefully pryed the cover off going around it nice and easy..(easy being a relative term cause there was nothing easy about it.) putty knife worked well on the second one. to get it seperated. then i went back to the plastic scraper,
 
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ugghhh

I had to do that. I used a wood tongue depresser with the end cut square and lots of MEK and lots of scrubbing and lots of rags and lots of MEK (ohh, did I say that already). Be careful if you use a knife or chisel not to cut into the aluminum. :eek: Ohh and for the fine details of clean up use a tooth brush and plenty of MEK. If your just cleaning up your mess around an area you want to remain sealed, to much MEK will ruin your seal.
 
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Pro-seal removal... YUCK!

Spent many a day doing just that for American Eagle. Best thing I found was actually Toluene. Soak some rags on top of the seal in question, let it sit for 15 min and it'll soften that sealant and it'll almost peel right off with a plastic scraper.
 
It Ain't Easy

.........what is the best method to remove/clean the cured pro-seal......
Mike,

Shown are the (once) approved tools my former employer McDonnell-Douglas had us production types use to remove cured proseal. Awhile back though, MEK was outlawed for shop use and replaced with some fruity orangy smelling stuff that is nowhere near as effective. The key element is the plastic scraper with a chisel point on both ends that can be quickly and easily resharpened using a bench sander. The use of metal scraping tools was never approved. Removing cured proseal can be a difficult and tedius task but using such tools coupled with sufficient elbow grease will eventually remove cured proseal from aluminum surfaces. Occasionally, if circumstances permitted, the use of a heat gun softened the proseal somewhat but obviously that practice would be dicey when working around fuel tanks! You can fashion an acceptable plastic scraper from thick plexiglas stock or even a cheap windshield scraper.

 
.....Why did they outlaw MEK?
Pressure from OSHA. Really, I've always thought it ironic the consumer can buy MEK over the counter but the substance was banned from the production workplace as just too hazardous.:eek:
 
plastic knife

try a picnic grade plastic knife with a serrated edge - go slow and it won't mar the aluminum
 
Removing Pro-Seal

For those that have had to remove the T-408 cover plate inorder to safety wire the fuel pickup tubes (SB 06-2-23), what is the best method to remove/clean the cured pro-seal. I confess that I used the "more is better" method. Now I wish I had been a little neater.

Thanks,
Mike Morris
[email protected]



Try http://www.rpm-technology.com/Poly-Gone.htm I understand that it works well on 870,890,14XX tank and RTV sealers without all the nasty scrapeing.
 
Remove pro seal

High grade paint remover works well. Use plastic scrapers. Final removal with scotch pads. Wash thouroughly after removal. El Dorado Chemicals also carries a removal liquid specifically for pro seal. Effective and nasty.
TT
RV10
N968TP
 
Acetone

Bit of an old thread, but helped me get off a tank access cover so I'll add my .02 for posterity.

I use some scrap 1/16" plexi and made a scraper as discussed by someone earlier here. Sharpened the edge on the grinder. Does the trick. I then used a very thin metal paint scraper to work in between the flange and the base metal, same as you would do on any fuel pump, water pump, pan gasket, and just worked my way around slowly. Once the cover was ojf, more scraping with the plexi, then wiped the left over with Acetone - works like magic. Same as for your wifes nail polish. Forget using MEK. Your liver chews up acetone. MEK, yeah not so much. Of course, gloves no matter what.
 
For those that have had to remove the T-408 cover plate inorder to safety wire the fuel pickup tubes (SB 06-2-23), what is the best method to remove/clean the cured pro-seal. I confess that I used the "more is better" method. Now I wish I had been a little neater.

Thanks,
Mike Morris
[email protected]

Is the plate sealed with just ProSeal or cork and ProSeal?

If the latter, be sure your putty knife or what have you is not trying to drive through the cork itself, but, instead, the Proseal.

As I believe another suggested, have something to place in an opened section - popsicle sticks are a good idea to keep the gap open and make it easier to proceed.

I had to do this last year to get at the air vent B-nut and tighten it.

It's not great gobs of fun but it can be safely done. I also found it very hand to have a headrest as I lay under the plane working at it. It allowed the rest of me to relax while I worked the joint.
 
DO NOT use MEK on your proseal, even on dried proseal!

It will penetrate the proseal sealing your rivets an will cause leaks (paint blisters) later on.
 
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DO NOT use MEK on your proseal, ev ed n dried proseal!

It will penetrate the proseal sealing your rivets an will cause leaks (paint blisters) later on.

I was wondering if anyone would mention that; it's an important point. Take great pains to keep it away from anything you want to stay sealed.

When my covers went back on, I used this:
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/permatex-permashield-fuel-resistant-gasket-dressing-flange-sealant/
Don't take my word on it; do your homework. Just a heads-up on more user friendly (and designed-for-application) product.

Charlie
 
Having scraped tons of proseal from Blackhawk helicopters, I found a plastic scraper to work best and do no harm. If you have an pieces of canopy left sitting around, sharpen on a grinder then use a file to finish the process.

Lexan works best, if you have it.
 
Skykleen

I used a product called Skykleen a couple years ago that seemed to work pretty well. I soaked some old socks and laid them on the proseal. I left it overnight but might not need that long. I got it from Falcon Crest in Englewood CO. Scott at 800-314-one one eight five can get it for you. Maybe others but I know Scott can get it.

Dave
 
I used a product called Skykleen a couple years ago that seemed to work pretty well. I soaked some old socks and laid them on the proseal. I left it overnight but might not need that long. I got it from Falcon Crest in Englewood CO. Scott at 800-314-one one eight five can get it for you. Maybe others but I know Scott can get it.

Dave
How do you know it won't penetrate the proseal and cause leaks, like doing the same with MEK would do?
 
reference post 20

I guess I don't know but that tank hasn't leaked since I did the reseal. I do remember I used the 30 minute premix and would not recommend the 30 minute cure time. I barely got it all in place before it started getting stiff.
 
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