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Old 10-15-2018, 10:41 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,095

They make satin clear coat if that's the desired look.
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:02 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,481

Personally I think the interior will look nice no matter how you elect to finish it: headliner, glossy paint, Zolatone.

I can testify that if you're going with a speckled finish, as I did, it's easy to get carried away and do WAY too much finish work before the paint goes on. Faux Zolatone hides blemishes like nobody's business, and blending in the areas around the doorway that are best left unpainted until after final trimming and sanding is easy - just have to take some care with masking and with heaviness of splatter application to keep the speckle density somewhat uniform. Hides repair areas very well.

You definitely want to do all you can on the inside of the lid while it's off the plane and on the bench. In my case, that philosophy included permanently affixing the doors as soon as the top was on the airframe so that pinhole filling could commence - with micro to level edges and fill pinholes, then neat epoxy wipe and lots of wet-sanding. The screws that hold my door hinges onto the top are buried never to be touched again, but the top was able to be finished to primer-ready while waiting for Cee Bailey to make my windows.

Transitions between the already painted areas and the fuselage structure still in AKZO are easily "Zolatoned' when the time comes and all the little transition fairings (cable chases, etc,) are fabricated and in place. As I said, the finish, which is latex house paint, stone-texture spray paint and clear spray enamel, is very forgiving and easy to apply. If you plan to finish the interior in a gloss epoxy, by all means spend the time getting all the blems out first. My two cents.

Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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Old 10-15-2018, 11:07 AM
jacoby jacoby is offline
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: WNC
Posts: 200

Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
However, you can't rub it. Any rubbing will take off the flatteners at the surface and bring back your gloss. This leaves a very pleasing clear coat finish without the gloss. The amount of flatteness is created with varying the ratio of flattener to mixed clear.

You might be able to use micro mesh sanding pads to dull where you've burnished the finish. They run about $15 for a set that runs from 1500 to 12000 grit. I've seen them used on hot rod black (satin black) to fix where the finish was burnished from use. It's not 100% perfect but it does get you pretty close.

An option as well may be to use vinyl wrap. Finish it in gloss like you'd normally do and then apply the vinyl to get the satin or matte finish.
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