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Labeling a Panel?

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DwightFrye

Active Member
I'm asking for a friend who is restoring a Citabria (and who I am helping). But this will be _remotely_ RV related 'cause I'll be referencing the approach I took doing the panel on my RV-7. :)

We are at the point where it is time to label the panel. I suggested that they do what I did which is get Steinair to print up some wet-apply decals in white on clear, apply them to the panel, and then clear-coat over them to make the edges disappear. It looks almost like they were screen-printed.

Well, the printer that Stein used has died, they've not been able to find a suitable replacement, and so that avenue is closed. So my best suggestion for them was a dead end. What is the latest greatest approach to doing a nice job of labeling panels?
 
DwightFrye said:
I'm asking for a friend who is restoring a Citabria (and who I am helping). But this will be _remotely_ RV related 'cause I'll be referencing the approach I took doing the panel on my RV-7. :)

We are at the point where it is time to label the panel. I suggested that they do what I did which is get Steinair to print up some wet-apply decals in white on clear, apply them to the panel, and then clear-coat over them to make the edges disappear. It looks almost like they were screen-printed.

Well, the printer that Stein used has died, they've not been able to find a suitable replacement, and so that avenue is closed. So my best suggestion for them was a dead end. What is the latest greatest approach to doing a nice job of labeling panels?
Click to expand...

I followed this approach, but made my own water activated labels. Papilio makes the sheets for either inkjet or laser printers. I used laser. Panel came out very nice.

Larry
 
Powder coat, then take to your local trophy shop and have them laser etch. My powder coat was a rough texture so I just left the aluminum show through. If it is a smooth powder coat, you can lay a high quality masking tape over before laser etching, then spray paint the letters, remove the tape. I had a few extra pieces of scrap powder coated and let the trophy shop try different fonts and power settings to get it perfect. Really happy with the result.

Stein uses the panel on their front page for advertising, so I must have done something right.
 
Not having a photo of what you are dealing with, I'll mention what worked well for me. I made detailed drawings for the labels for my switches and controls and took it to an engraver and had them engrave onto really thin .020 material which then received a very sticky backing. I wanted holes in the labels so they could also be held down by the switches in addition to the adhesive backing. Also colored the edges black so as to not see the layer of white on the edge. I think they turned out quite nice. I also used the same method for labeling the controls.
DSC01550.JPG


Happy building,
 
John-G said:
Not having a photo of what you are dealing with, I'll mention what worked well for me. I made detailed drawings for the labels for my switches and controls and took it to an engraver and had them engrave onto really thin .020 material which then received a very sticky backing. I wanted holes in the labels so they could also be held down by the switches in addition to the adhesive backing. Also colored the edges black so as to not see the layer of white on the edge. I think they turned out quite nice. I also used the same method for labeling the controls.
DSC01550.JPG


Happy building,
Click to expand...

Aircraft Engravers did the same thing for my panel s overlays -

http://www.engravers.net/materials.html
 
You're right Gil

az_gila said:
Isn't the major problem that most ink-jet printers are not able to print WHITE?
Click to expand...

But this works great on a light colored panel.
Mine are black on very light grey paint. Looks professionally done. Very pleased with the process and result.
 
Google "Custom dry transfers" (rub down).

Make a sheet up using Visio or similar (think model decal sheet). Nest little things in big things, etc. to get max use out of the space. Make extras in case you mess up.
Cut out and rub down. Lightly coat with matte clear to seal, or just leave if not subject to wear.
Note, the sheets do have a shelf life. My six year old leftovers are dried out and won't stick down.

Good luck!
 
Think thru readability in flight

Don't know how much flexibility you have w/ a Citabria, i.e. GA aircraft...

For an experimental, where there are many options, strongly suggest a mockup, and a "can I read it in flight, from the pilot's seated position, when strapped in...?" check.

What looks good on a panel, at eye level, with lots of fluorescent light, in a shop, might not be usable when viewed from pilot's perspective in the airplane.
 
I'll second that Joe

jwilbur said:
I used decalProFX and am very happy with the results.

http://www.decalprofx.com/

http://airplane.athomeinthewilburness.com/2016/06/26/panel-labels/
Click to expand...

I also used DecalProFx also which I'm very happy with.
It's a little expensive ( special equipment) and definitely has a learning curve which can be exasperating at first but once you master it, it's a breeze.
Used a program called "FrontDesigner" to select fonts, layouts, symbols etc. which made it pretty simple. Probably cost more than just paying to have it
done but to some builders it's a option to allow you to do everything yourself.
 
I used Avery clear labels printed on a HP laser printer. Holding up well after five years. I had to reallocate a switch when I added a P-Mag. It was easy to remove and replace.

ccdc2455a8f55d0c31855c9bb84eac6d8142_N194MHPanel.jpg
 
Based on the number of times i've changed the configuration of items in my panel, I wouldn't do any labels that I couldn't change.

So far what has worked for me is to laser print the labels, use a laminator to apply a durable plastic layer front and back, and then apply a double-sided laminating adhesive to the back of that. Then I cut out the labels to the size/shape I need, peel the backing, and stick them on.

This does leave the thin edge of the laser-printed sheet exposed around the perimeter, but I have not found any serious durability issues doing it this way. I have replaced the label above my throttle once (I guess my fingers rub it once in a while) but the labels above my circuit breakers are untouched in 5 years and still look like new. Of course, replacing one is just a matter of making a new one, which is pretty easy.
 
Here's a recent picture of my panel. I used the engraving approach for labeling. I think it has a functional/utility look to it. I worked on planes at times in my navy days and much engraving was used in their cockpits. It kind of takes me back. I like it. The decal type also pictured in this thread are really nice too! I feel it give those panels a "high end and classy" look. That's meant totally as a compliment! :)

rihsoz.jpg
 
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Thanks!

You folks came up with lots of great suggestions. I'm pointing my Citabria-friend to this thread so he can figure out what will work best for him. I knew this crew would have numerous good suggestions. Much appreciated!!
 
I got my local automotive decal shop to make me wrap. I started by tracing the blank panel, switch holes, instrument cut-out, etc onto big piece of paper, then used felt pen to hand write labels and placards where I wanted them.

The print shop guys scanned my draft, then replaced hand writing with nice text and lines including center marks on switch cutouts for alignment.

We made two prototype prints on plain paper that I trial fitted in the plane before printing on vinyl. Total cost was under $100, for a very professional look, although overall panel layout could be improved.

I chose dark grey base colour for night flying, light grey lettering for important text, and medium gray for less important stuff, such as the 40th anniversary Van's logo. After initial printing, the wrap was finished with non reflective clear top sheet. Opportunities for style are endless, just look at wraps on cars.

Finished product is about two years old now with no signs of wear. When I asked about durability, the print shop owner replied that some of his customers take wrapped vehicles through car wash every day without damaging the wrap.

Jay

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Thanks Mickey,
It was an evolutionary process, (addition of the autopilot couple years ago then recently adding wig wag capability to my new LED landing lights)... I do like the end result.
 
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Paul 5r4

Yes your panel looks neat.

I also think the detail reminder on engine failure etc is a good idea.:D

The one long engraved panel is a great idea that I might pinch as I have a number of separate tags that get a bit dirty around the edges.
 
fl-mike said:
Google "Custom dry transfers" (rub down).

Make a sheet up using Visio or similar (think model decal sheet). Nest little things in big things, etc. to get max use out of the space. Make extras in case you mess up.
Cut out and rub down. Lightly coat with matte clear to seal, or just leave if not subject to wear.
Note, the sheets do have a shelf life. My six year old leftovers are dried out and won't stick down.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

+1 to this. The dry transfer labels are the way to go if you want that factory look without going full silkscreen.

FP10022014A0001Y.jpg
 
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