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New LED Light Option

Xkuzme1

Well Known Member
So I hardly ever use my landing lights. I just don't fly at night very often, but when I do, I like them to work. I wanted to upgrade but $200+ for a light just wasn't going to happen. So I found an alternative that worked... and worked very well.

I bought a pair of these off of Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Tractor-Industrial-Lighting-Landscape/dp/B01NAB4RTV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485817092&sr=8-1&keywords=PAR36+LED+18W+6000K

They come with a long leed on them. You have to crimp a fitting on them to match what's on your airplane. I didn't want to alter my plane in case I decided to go back to the standard 7604 at some point in time. You'll also have to find out which wire on your plane is positive and negative... but that is pretty easy if you get a free multi-meter from harbor freight. These lights are a sealed unit with no additional power supply needed. Total install time for both was 45 mins.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B75S03sk7sCyMzR0ZktBeXlQYmM

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B75S03sk7sCyWTZGYl9Kc2VyeFU

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B75S03sk7sCyQ3l5cXo3aThLVFE

X
 
RFI?

Todd,

Shoot fire - this is exactly the type of LED landing light I'd like for the new RV-8 project. Thanks for posting.

Did you notice any radio noise with these lights?

Carl
 
Mini Bike

Looks good, Tinker, but what about that mini-bike sitting on the workbench. I need one.
 
Boomer. LOL... the Mini-bike doesn't run. I'm working on that. It would be perfect for some airshows though. It's street legal 49cc, folding gas scooter. Would easily fit in the back seat of my plane. https://www.diblasi.com

As for the mounting options... it is nearly the same mounting as any other aviation light bulb. It rest inside a cutout circle, and is held into the circle by two "L" brackets. I say nearly the same... because it isn't exactly the same. This LED is deeper (less than 1/4 inch) than the average bulb because it has the LED power supply built in. I didn't have modify anything for mine to fit. I can see that some highly specialized mounts may not be as forgiving.

It's an option. For me it has worked very well.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B75S03sk7sCyamxWbl9fS0JxX0k

My RH light is aimed low because it is angeled as a taxi light. So the hangar belong illuminated is really only one bulb.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B75S03sk7sCySDV5ZDFQYWV3TFE
 
This may be just the

ticket for my RV8! My question is how hot do they run? I have seen several other lights that would blister paint, so I am cautious.
I plan for a small cooling air vent to force (at least) some air over the body of whatever light I install, but the amount of heat generated is of concern.
 
Both of the ones that I bought were Spot. I considered the flood, but at 70-80 mph, I though the spot would be better, I'd just have to make the aiming a little better. I suppose either would work.

As for the heat... I have always been paranoid. My strobes, position, and landing/taxi lights are all cooped up together with no cooling. So before I actually installed them, I held them in my hand. They got warm, but not hot. After I installed them, I left them on for 5 mins. The plastic lense of my cover was never hot. I ran all lights for an entire flight... no problem at all.

X
 
competition

And I thought the IT business was competitive...the LED lighting business is really changing fast.
 
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I hope this isn't something you already know. It seems like the stock Vans setup wedges the lip of the bulb between 2 pieces of aluminum (??). The MR16 halogens are just a bulb like the LED bulb being discussed here. I would think a part or two would have to be fabricated to mount these new bulbs.

20140816_161101_zpsfqzp9kcz.jpg
 
I still don't understand how one would mount this. (In general, I know nothing about PAR36-style lights.) There is no built-in place to screw a bracket onto it. The only thing I can think is that one could drill holes in the heat sink fins on the back and attach a bracket that way. Any guidance?

I thought I would try one of these landing lights but same for me, I couldn't determine how to mount it so I thought I would try a couple designs and print from plastic.

Here's the first design printing now. I'm trying to move the lens as far fwd as possible to be able to point the light properly past the leading edge of the fairing. the mount can be rotated at install to achieve the proper angle.... if it fits. rotate the black and grey for angle. it is going to look goofy. any other ideas appreciated.

landing%20light_zpswbfspiud.png
 
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mount idea

prototype of the base. coarse print for speed. a couple more parts to design and print yet. not bad for a couple hours work. obviously, you don't need all the holes for mounting. they are for clocking options to achieve angle. yet to be determined, will it fit? I didn't have a model of the wingtip lens so this will be trial and error. base weight = 0.19 lb

LL1_zpsduedd7rh.jpeg


LL2_zpslmvegfqp.jpeg


LL3_zpsjdvdiuz8.jpeg


DSCN1204_zpss6rrpze8.jpg


DSCN1208_zpssoy3aqrg.jpg


DSCN1209_zpsqbstpadz.jpg


DSCN1210_zpsrbsdu9ch.jpg
 
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Concerning the "mounting problem"... Pictures seem to indicate these are secured just like regular old automotive headlights used to be - and in fact, appear to be a direct replacement for them. Why not just run down to the local wrecking yard and grab a bucket and ring from the first pre 1980 car you see?

Or am I missing something?
 
prototype of the base. coarse print for speed. a couple more parts to design and print yet. not bad for a couple hours work. obviously, you don't need all the holes for mounting. they are for clocking options to achieve angle. yet to be determined, will it fit? I didn't have a model of the wingtip lens so this will be trial and error. base weight = 0.19 lb

LL1_zpsduedd7rh.jpeg


LL2_zpslmvegfqp.jpeg


LL3_zpsjdvdiuz8.jpeg


DSCN1204_zpss6rrpze8.jpg


DSCN1208_zpssoy3aqrg.jpg


DSCN1209_zpsqbstpadz.jpg


DSCN1210_zpsrbsdu9ch.jpg


Steve,
Very nice print!! I will have to remember this when I install my lights this summer.
Dave
 
that's just my luck. I only purchased one.
That's really cool, Steve. Above my capabilities though!

My current plan is just to drill through a couple of the cooling fins on the back and attach it to a U-bracket with some #6 screws. Then attach that to my Duckworks bracket. Though I don't think these lights are any brighter than my current 100W halogens, I should be able to move them much closer to the leading edge of the wing for better light coverage. We'll see.

If it doesn't work, I'll have a slightly mangled second one for you to pair with your first!:D
 
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no way

no way this is going to fit. the 9 wing tips are different than the 4. well, I'll still finish the design. maybe someone else can use it sometime. this is what happens when you don't have a model of the design space, or just take some simple measurements. duh.

IMG_20170216_182937_zpsuiggfpqe.jpg
 
mounting LED Bulb

Steve, even if you modify the mount. Like only use a section of it, not a 360deg. hold of the bulb. I love the idea because of setting the angle for the light beam to come out straight. Mark C. RV9A
 
Great find

Hopefully they will be available again soon or from another source.

Do you have any pics at night? Have you used them landing yet? How was it?

Thanks,

Tom
 
PAR36 design

has promise but will not fit RV-9 wing tips. maybe someone else can use it. still some dimensional tweaking to do. weight without fasteners = .39 lb. rotate base and wedge to achieve beam angle. I need to add some cooling vent holes in the base. you know, a couple hours Thursday and three hours today, hit the print button and go to the airport and go flying. when you get home the parts are ready.... it's a new age folks. and many thanks to EAA and Solidworks for the free software.

proto1a_zpso1v3dhrw.png


proto1b_zpscncazwti.png


proto1c_zpso214sjog.png


proto1d_zpsix78niqx.png


comes with drill template
DSCN1216_zpsntjik1bl.jpg


maximum angle, clock base and wedge to angle desired
DSCN1227_zpslua1z0ev.jpg


DSCN1225_zpslyjelvii.jpg


zero angle
DSCN1224_zpsq3koify0.jpg
 
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not sure what it's good for

more of an exercise than anything. +/- 10 degree option at install. this light is rated at 18W and the max operating temp ~120F. I suppose I could chop off the base at the bottom of the lower wedge and eliminate an inch but that would eliminate those cool hex nut features.

DSCN1244_zpsua0o7dld.jpg


DSCN1241_zpsjoo9nn6q.jpg


DSCN1233_zpsgi3beojm.jpg


DSCN1231_zpsjq6jun9s.jpg
 
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Back on Amazon

I see these are back available on Amazon. A ordered a pair to play with. Planning on mounting them in the leading edge Duckworks hardware.

Eulice Curington
RV-10 N104EW
Painting
 
Just mounted a pair of these in my leading edge Duckworks mounts. I previously had Duckworks PAR36 reflectors with 35W HID lamps, and these are noticeably brighter.

The only modification that was required was a washer between the rear mount plate and retaining cup because this LED lamp is a bit thicker on the front side of the mount. I removed the HID driver circuitry and wired these up instead, and the weight difference was a wash (actually saved a few tenths of an ounce per side).

Went flying for the first time with them today, and they were completely silent electrically and didn't affect radio transmission or reception one bit. I just ordered more for replacements if these ever quit, because I'm sure once everyone gets word about these they're going to disappear FAST!
 
Do these lights have capability to wig-wag effectively?

Yes, but much depends on your wig wag controller. If you use the B&C controller, there will be an extra couple of resistors needed. I think the setup is in their wiring instructions.

I built my own controller with no moving parts, which does not depend on a resistive element being connected for switching. Works a treat!
 
I was glad to see these become available again to give them a try...Wow! They throw quite a bit of light for low power. The Duckworks leading edge kits are on order and can't wait to get two of them installed. This pic is just one of the lamps positioned at the left wing outer bay with a 12v battery attached. The dimly lit fence across the field is about 400 ft.

landing%20light3-M.jpg
 
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Where would one go to purchase the RV4 wing tip assembly that Xkizme1 has? I'm ready to to the full LED swap and all his lights within one lens seems like a good way to go.
 
I just bought two of these spots and one of the floods on Amazon with Prime for $85 after a 20% promo discount!
 
MR16

So has anyone found a replacement for the MR16 Bulb with about the same 2" space? Like a lot of folks, I just have the wing-tip unless I want to cut the leading edge....and I don't. I've tried some promising LED's that were square from Atwoods the other day to find out they just didn't put out the light I was expecting. Need some Lumens in a compact package!
 
PAR 36 LED lamps

I just purchased and installed two of the PAR36 lamps in the wing tips of my RV-4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAB4RTV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The static on my radio is so bad it makes the radio unusable. The wiring to the lights is not shielded. The lights are on a wig-wag circuit and the noise is present on steady or wig-wag. The radio is the Dynon unit. Any suggestions for a filter circuit that might cure it.
 
I purchased the lights referenced in the original post and just got around to installing them. Much brighter than the original bulbs and zero noise. Big bang for the buck
 
I just purchased the same lights that Xkuzme1 has(Amazon) and they don't fit with the flyleds skinnyboards I have. Let me know if you need two. I'll also put it on the for sale section.
 
I just purchased the same lights that Xkuzme1 has(Amazon) and they don't fit with the flyleds skinnyboards I have. Let me know if you need two. I'll also put it on the for sale section.

Which ones did you buy? I could use a pair, one flood one spot.

Holger
 
Just mounted a pair of these in my leading edge Duckworks mounts. I previously had Duckworks PAR36 reflectors with 35W HID lamps, and these are noticeably brighter.

The only modification that was required was a washer between the rear mount plate and retaining cup because this LED lamp is a bit thicker on the front side of the mount. I removed the HID driver circuitry and wired these up instead, and the weight difference was a wash (actually saved a few tenths of an ounce per side).

Went flying for the first time with them today, and they were completely silent electrically and didn't affect radio transmission or reception one bit. I just ordered more for replacements if these ever quit, because I'm sure once everyone gets word about these they're going to disappear FAST!

Could you post a picture? I have the leading edge rectangular lights in my RV-8 and am trying to figure a way to mount these PAR 36 lights into the Duckworks bracket.

Thanks.
John
 
PAR36 LED Work Light installation Report

Purchased two of these from Amazon (choose the “spot” option, not the “flood”):

http://a.co/irxrxDP

and two of these from Duckworks:

"Round Light Retainer Bracket (holds Round 4" 'PAR-36' Lamps)" $15 each + $8 shipping (ouch!)

http://duckworksav.com/Individuals.html#Retainers

I had 55W halogen Duckworks rectangular reflectors installed. I removed the reflectors and cut the rectangles out to fit the new round PAR36 lights.

The "Retainer Bracket" hole diameter had to be enlarged by about 3/16" to fit over the PAR36 LED lights .

The good news is the Duckworks retainer bracket attach holes are in the same spot as the rectangular reflector retaining holes!!

I tested for radio interference and discovered one of the two lights breaks the squelch in the 125.00 - 128.00 VHF frequency range.

Having had RF interference issues with Aveo Engineering nav lights and been supplied free RF chokes to put on the wires by their very helpful customer service representative (Damian), I contacted them and obtained the part number for the chokes.

[Würth Elektronik] 74270062 Ferrite core

https://octopart.com/search?q=74270062

See the second picture for how to install the chokes on the wires of the lights.

The result is VERY bright noise free installation. The LED lights draw 1.2 amps each and are MUCH brighter than the 55W halogens that drew 5 amps each. This has been a huge safety and power efficiency improvement. The only negative is the lights weigh about 10 oz. each vs maybe 2 oz. each for the halogen lights and reflectors.

Highly recommend this modification!!!


IMG_3377_zpsoqliyp3j.jpg


IMG_3366.HEIC_zpse0cv80ik.jpeg
 
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So has anyone found a replacement for the MR16 Bulb with about the same 2" space? Like a lot of folks, I just have the wing-tip unless I want to cut the leading edge....and I don't. I've tried some promising LED's that were square from Atwoods the other day to find out they just didn't put out the light I was expecting. Need some Lumens in a compact package!

This is an old post, but so far I have not seen any replacements. I have HID in MR16's and they are good, but when they fail. :(

Has there been anything?
 
Landing lights too bright..

So i am researching landing lights and I could easily install Baja Design lights of 4900 lumens in each wing.

Is 2x 4900 lumens ( 9800 lumens) too much?

If I install one in each tip, what do I do when taxiing? Do I need a less intense taxi light?
 
John - I have Baja Squadron Pro's in each wingtip (Glasair Sportsman). They make a lot of light. Recently another Sportsman builder installed a pair of Baja S2's (half the size of the Squadron Pro's) and reports they are more than adequate for night operations. He was replacing a pair of HID's installed in the same wingtip locations and was pleased to see a significant drop in current draw, heat and noise while having a much wider, smoother beam pattern. In our case it's a net-new installation so I have no other lights against which to draw a comparison. When I compare the pair of Squadron Pro's to any of the GE4509 -equipped airplanes I've flown, the LEDs win by a huge margin.

He also recommended the "combo" lens which gives good spread for taxi work and retains good throw for use as a landing light. Based on his recommendation I may opt to retrofit the combo lenses to our Squadron Pros.

Oh, one little tidbit of advice. Don't look into those lights with the naked eye. Don't ask how I would know to make such a recommendation... :)
 
Good to hear

Mark,
It is good to hear the Baja Design S2's will be adequate. It turns out the S2's will fit in the win tips of the RV9, so I don't need to cut into the wing and add light boxes if using those.

I am thinking maybe I will go ahead and close up the wing. When it comes time to do the wing tip install, I will either put the S2s in the tips, or the latest S2 size LED in the tips (maybe there will be a brighter replacement??), or if that all fails, retrofit the wings with light boxes.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Recently another Sportsman builder installed a pair of Baja S2's (half the size of the Squadron Pro's) and reports they are more than adequate for night operations.
Mark, thank you for the pireps. Do you know which S2s your friend installed: the sport or the pros? The sport pulls 12W for 1130 lumens, while the pro version pulls 20W for 2450 lumens:

S2 Sport ($210):
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/S2-Sport-Pair-Driving-Combo-LED.asp

S2 Pro ($340):
https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/s2-pro-pair-driving-combo-led.asp

I almost think one S2 Sport in each tip would do the trick. At 24W I would just leave them on always, if there's no RF noise.

Holger
 
Holger - I'm pasting below the information provided by the other Sportsman owner. Keep in mind his need to very closely watch weight gains in his aircraft on amphibious floats.

With respect to RF noise, our Squadron Pros do make a little bit of noise. I mean a very little bit. On the ground without the engine running and the lights wig-wagging and intercom volume turned up almost to ear-bleed levels, I can just barely detect a slight buzz with them. I have to listen very, very hard to hear it. There's no way I could possibly hear it with the engine running, even at idle. For all intents and purposes, we might as well call them silent. I wired the lights with MIL-C-27500 18ga twisted shielded pair wire with the shield grounded at the same forest-of-tabs common ground point used for the power ground for the lights.

------------------------------
I installed the Baja Designs S2 Pro’s and think they are the perfect solution for an amphibious Sportsman. They produce far more light than the HID’s I replaced and they only weigh one half pound (8 ounces) each. Although the BD Squadron Pro’s that Mark is using produce exactly twice as much light as the S2’s (and I love that product) I’m very happy with the facts that:

(a) I now have much more light than before,

(b) the LED’s are not as temperamental as the HID’s which sometimes fail to light,

(c ) the LED’s produce instantaneous full power lighting (the HID’s required a warm-up period),

(d) the S2’s are each more than 10 ounces lighter than the HID’s they replaced, and

(e) the LED’s will last essentially forever.

If I was on wheels, I’d spring for the extra $100 and install the Squadron Pro’s that Mark has. You can never have too much light, but you can have too much weight, especially in an amphib. IMHO, If you’re weight conscious or price conscious, the S2’s are the perfect product, but if you want max lighting, go for the Squadron Pro’s.
 
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