Page 31-13 Wiring

Some notes from my experiences with the wiring harnesses over the rudder pedals- figure out the geometry so you don't have to put the pedals in twice.

There is a 1/2" gap between the rudder pedal shaft and F1201B, set by the thickness of the F1235A block. The MS21919-DG6 rubber is 1/8" thick *2, so you need to get your wires out through a 1/4" gap. Since my wire bundle was 1/2" in diameter, the bundles need to be flattened.

Van's said the clamps could face outwards instead of inwards, which is good, since if facing inwards and flattened, the clamps will have too small of a gap to reinstall the rudder pivot block. If your flattened 3/8" clamp wont hold all the wires, get a larger one, don't flatten the coax or static line! You don't want the wires rubbing on the rudder shafts, either.

On page 31-14, there is a good drawing of the bundle coming down- notice it passes down 3" aft of the firewall, somewhat between the rudder horns.

When I torque the rudder shaft bolts (6) my rudders get stiff. Are nutplates rated to not unscrew if the bolts are not torqued to spec? Do the rudder pedals need to be free like pendulums?

Also, on P31-14 is pin 7 WH-S1 supposed to be the ground for the music?

okiejohn said:

When I torque the rudder shaft bolts (6) my rudders get stiff. Are nutplates rated to not unscrew if the bolts are not torqued to spec? Do the rudder pedals need to be free like pendulums?

Click to expand...

There are spacer washers shown on dwg 27-03 that go between the blocks to account for cutting the blocks in half. Did you miss installing them?

thanks,

My bandsaw has a thin kerf, so I first used -L washers, then I went to the thick standard ones. It only takes 1/2 turn of loosening from full torque to free it up, less than a washer.

I decided to go with 3 clamps instead of two. One hole, two clamps on one side to spread out the load. That is alot of wires, cables, and staic lines to crunch into 2 clamps. IMHO it would have created a pinch area and damage the wire bundle.

JMHO.