What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Anyone got a part number for the brake disk?

markscogg

Well Known Member
I need to order new brake disks (rotors) from ACS east. This is for a 1998 RV-6A. Cleveland wheel number 40-78B and caliper number 30-9. I can't find a number on the disk. I am in NC, so don't want to order from Van's.

Van's has them listed as:
Disc
Part Number = WHL 5.00 DISC
Price = $177.00

Thanks
Mark
 
Rapco Disks?

Anyone tried these Rapco disks?
Half price of Cleveland, but are they OK?
Thanks for the info guys.
Mark
 
Anyone tried these Rapco disks?
Half price of Cleveland, but are they OK?
Thanks for the info guys.
Mark

I have used both Cleveland and Rapco disks and pads. Other than the price, I was not able to tell any difference.

My RV-6 is will be 18-years old in September of this year.
 
If you're replacing discs and pads anyway, a 199-93 upgrade kit is really worthwhile for an A-model. The key change is a thicker disc -> more heat storage capacity -> much higher kinetic energy rating, 117K vs 155K.

You get discs, pads, caliper shims, new bolts, rivets, the works.
 
They work fine

Mark
Just wondering if you have installed and used these disk brakes yet? I am thinking of ordering a set and was hoping for some feedback.

Yes, they are on the plane and flying with no problem.
When you compare and old one to the new ones (laying on the mounting side) there is a small difference in height.
The calipers have plenty of "float" so it was not a problem.
 
Yes, they are on the plane and flying with no problem.
When you compare and old one to the new ones (laying on the mounting side) there is a small difference in height.
The calipers have plenty of "float" so it was not a problem.

Thanks for the feedback, I ordered them and they are expected to arrive by tomorrow. My original has a few groves and rather uneven surface. I was hoping to have them turned but couldn't find a shop to do that.
 
If you're replacing discs and pads anyway, a 199-93 upgrade kit is really worthwhile for an A-model. The key change is a thicker disc -> more heat storage capacity -> much higher kinetic energy rating, 117K vs 155K.

You get discs, pads, caliper shims, new bolts, rivets, the works.

Darn that Horton and his fancy math! I'm on this Cleveland 199-93 bus right now as it is time to replace the rotors. I just kinda' jumped in with "hey, we'll figure it out". The standard Vans plans (-9A) land the brake rotor very close to the wheel pant bracket with the standard brakes. Enter the fat disk and ... something has to change. The wheel pant bracket drags on the rotor. I'm working on massaging a few parts to see if I can get enough clearance. If that doesn't work, I'm planning on machining a thicker axle bushing on the inside and taking an equal amount off of the axle nut to move the whole wheel assembly about 1/16" outboard in order to get enough clearance from the wheel pant bracket.

I'm still noodling the details as I'm just back to the shop from the hangar. Oh, and those "longer" bolts that the "upgrade kit" comes with are exactly the same size as the original bolts -15 and no drilled head. Silly.

Note to the wiser: get the cheaper Rapco rotors, make your own shims (little piece of 1/8" aluminum) and be prepared for not just a bolt up upgrade, depending on your particular setup..
 
Last edited:
Darn that Horton and his fancy math! I'm on this Cleveland 199-93 bus right now as it is time to replace the rotors. I just kinda' jumped in with "hey, we'll figure it out". The standard Vans plans (-9A) land the brake rotor very close to the wheel pant bracket with the standard brakes. Enter the fat disk and ... something has to change. The wheel pant bracket drags on the rotor. I'm working on massaging a few parts to see if I can get enough clearance. If that doesn't work, I'm planning on machining a thicker axle bushing on the inside and taking an equal amount off of the axle nut to move the whole wheel assembly about 1/16" outboard in order to get enough clearance from the wheel pant bracket.

I'm still noodling the details as I'm just back to the shop from the hangar. Oh, and those "longer" bolts that the "upgrade kit" comes with are exactly the same size as the original bolts -15 and no drilled head. Silly.

Note to the wiser: get the cheaper Rapco rotors, make your own shims (little piece of 1/8" aluminum) and be prepared for not just a bolt up upgrade, depending on your particular setup..

Any reason you don't just add a 1/16" washer to the three bracket spacers? (maybe two)
 
Note to the wiser: get the cheaper Rapco rotors, make your own shims (little piece of 1/8" aluminum) and be prepared for not just a bolt up upgrade, depending on your particular setup..


Scott are you suggesting that even the regular Rapco discs (not the thicker the ones), are not bolt on? Some of the previous posts indicate that there is no difference than the price. So just wondering...
 
Any reason you don't just add a 1/16" washer to the three bracket spacers? (maybe two)

That will indeed move the bracket inboard, but the wheel pant remains in the same place due to the outboard attach at the nut. The net result is the wheel pant pulling the extents of the inboard bracket back against the rotor.
 
Scott are you suggesting that even the regular Rapco discs (not the thicker the ones), are not bolt on? Some of the previous posts indicate that there is no difference than the price. So just wondering...

The stock thickness is a direct replacement.

The thicker ones required me to add a spacer washer (purchased from Granger Part # 5GB11) to the axle before sliding on the wheel. Then the nut was shaved down the same amount. This kept the bracket from contacting the thicker disc.

The new bolts do need to be 1/8" longer. They don't need to be drilled as long as you use star lock washers and replace them when removed.... My Warrior was like this from the factory. I had that airplane for 20 years with no problem from any inspection. Sure is a lot easier than leaning down on your ear twisting wire.

I made my 1/8"shims from 1/8" alum bar stock from ACE hardware...:eek:

The thicker brakes work great!! have had them on for a couple of years and I DO use my brakes....6A. So far there is no sign of heat affecting the finish surface of the bell of the disc brake. The disc takes the heat just fine.

Save your money, order the thicker discs and the longer bolts. Spend an hour making the shims and end up with better brakes that should never cause a wheel pant fire. The pads should also last longer due to less heat.
 
Last edited:
That will indeed move the bracket inboard, but the wheel pant remains in the same place due to the outboard attach at the nut. The net result is the wheel pant pulling the extents of the inboard bracket back against the rotor.

Gotcha - Scott - I wondered in the previous write ups if the pants would just"stretch" to fit. I understand now your(our) dilemma, if the inboard pants mount is moved - lots of things are affected, the intersection faring, stretching of the pant. If the nut was shaved (outboard)to accommodate the inboard mount, the IF is still pushed inboard, so moving the wheel assy is the only thing left to keep the pant in a fixed position. Hmmm - - tricky pain.

So, you are thinking about making a new spacer (inner seal ring) that is .0xx longer and shifting the wheel by 1/2 disc thickness. Then machining off the axle nut the exact same amount so the end play is back to original - sounds like a good plan. Elegant. Good thinking, just what I expect from you.

Thanks Scott, good conversation.

EDIT - I finally read gasman's post, and he did the same. Good conversation anyway.
 
Last edited:
The stock thickness is a direct replacement.

The thicker ones required me to add a spacer washer (purchased from Granger) to the axle before sliding on the wheel. Then the nut was shaved down the same amount. This kept the bracket from contacting the thicker disc.

So, you found a washer? Happen to have a part # or reference? Maybe something like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-1-1-4-x1-7-8-O-D-5MXC7

Gotcha - Scott - I wondered in the previous write ups if the pants would just"stretch" to fit. I understand now your(our) dilemma, if the inboard pants mount is moved - lots of things are affected, the intersection faring, stretching of the pant. If the nut was shaved (outboard)to accommodate the inboard mount, the IF is still pushed inboard, so moving the wheel assy is the only thing left to keep the pant in a fixed position. Hmmm - - tricky pain.

So, you are thinking about making a new spacer (inner seal ring) that is .0xx longer and shifting the wheel by 1/2 disc thickness. Then machining off the axle nut the exact same amount so the end play is back to original - sounds like a good plan. Elegant. Good thinking, just what I expect from you.

Thanks Scott, good conversation.

EDIT - I finally read gasman's post, and he did the same. Good conversation anyway.

Yeah, that is generally the "sure thing" plan. However, I just might be able to massage the parts into playing nice. I have quite a bit of extra reinforcing meat that I added to the inside of the wheel pant where the inboard bracket attaches. Hmm, if I take a 1/32+" off of that. Also there is a whole lot of meat on the outboard face of the axle nut. Hmm, I could take 1/32" off of that. I wonder where that would get me :). That is going to be my first attempt. Then I'm going to shim the wheel out and call it done.
 
Last edited:
So, you found a washer? Happen to have a part # or reference? Maybe something like this: https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-1-1-4-x1-7-8-O-D-5MXC7

That does not look like what I used..... I do have the part number, just not with me. I won't be able to get to it for a week. HERE IT IS..... Granger part # 5GB11.

Keep searching Granger. If I recall, they were arbor shims and were high quality. Not just washers. They were a perfect fit.

Determine the thickness that you need for a shim, and then just cut that same amount off the face of the axle nut.
 
Last edited:
That does not look like what I used..... I do have the part number, just not with me. I won't be able to get to it for a week.

Keep searching Granger. If I recall, they were considered shims and were high quality. Not just washers. They were a perfect fit.

Determine the thickness that you need for a shim, and then just cut that same amount off the face of the axle nut.

Ahh, maybe an Arbor Shim! https://www.grainger.com/product/PRECISION-BRAND-Arbor-Shim-5GA99?searchBar=true&searchQuery=5GA99

This will be helpful for those that follow....
 
For us proletariat lacking lathes, you don't need to turn down the nut face. Discard the outer .250 washer and use three of the .062 arbor shims from the package of 10. Crude, but works.

I've been noodling the same problem on my -7. This is the answer.

In the never again file, it's always bugged me that Van's has you build up the interior of the pant for reinforcement - which throws off all those carefully positioned holes in the bracket and spacing with the disc. Next build will have the reinforcement on the outside of the pant and blended in. The wind will never know.

John Siebold
 
For us proletariat lacking lathes, you don't need to turn down the nut face. Discard the outer .250 washer and use three of the .062 arbor shims from the package of 10. Crude, but works.

John Siebold

This seems like it would defeat the felt packing in pretty short order? The felt (dirt guard) likes a nice smooth surface to ride on.
 
I'm using the Matco brake set Van's supplied - maybe still does - four years ago. The Matco bearings have an integrated soft plastic seal, no felts required, ergo no reliance on a smooth OD running surface. Good point, though. Main concern I have is the low carbon steel shims will quickly corrode.

John Siebold
 
Is there any reason this rapco disc upgrade would not be compatible with the Matco wheels that Vans is sending with the RV7A/9A kits these days?

I have Matco wheels and brakes, and would love to try the thick disc upgrade.
 
Back
Top