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Source of polished steel for backriveting?

N

nevetsw18

Active Member
Hello,

As I gear up for my next project, I'm looking to build a dedicated table for backriveting. Does anyone have a local source of polished steel they can recommend in the DFW area? Additionally is there a size or thickness anyone can recommend for experience?

Thank you,

Steven
 
$10

I bought 2 pieces of steel for back riveting. One for the rudder. 1/4" thick, 5' long and 4" wide. The second was 1/2" thick 14" long and 12" wide. Metal supply house. Used a belt sander on them and shined them up. YMMV.
If u were closer I'd give them to u.
 
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I had some beautiful 4" polished stainless steel left over at work but it was only 1/4 thick, I tried it and it began to curve, 3/8 thickness minimum in my experiences.
 
Good luck with stainless; too soft.

Local scrap yard was my source. They didn't make any claims about polish, though.
 
pilotkms said:
I bought 2 pieces of steel for back riveting. One for the rudder. 1/4" thick, 5' long and 4" wide. The second was 1/2" thick 14" long and 12" wide. Metal supply house. Used a belt sander on them and shined them up. YMMV.
If u were closer I'd give them to u.
Click to expand...

rv7charlie said:
Good luck with stainless; too soft.

Local scrap yard was my source. They didn't make any claims about polish, though.
Click to expand...

Almost 30-years ago, I purchased a piece of steel and used a sander to polish it up. Built my RV-6 with it. Repeated the clean up again and am now using it on the RV-8.
 
3/8" is a minimum

I got a piece of cold rolled 3/8" x 4 " x 60"

Fits beautifully on my EAA table. Heavy enough to rivet on.

Shims nicely with 3/8" ply when needed.

I occasionally lightly polish and oil to keep the rust off in humid Houston.

I got mine from onlinemetals.com (which was then nearby which kept shipping reasonable)
 
Don't overthink it, it's just a hunk of steel. Blanchard ground looks nice, but a reasonably smooth surface is fine, which as others said can accomplished via sanding. Break or put a slight radius on the edges to avoid surprise scratches.
3/8" is a good thickness. For me, I find backriveting works best on a concrete (garage) floor. I just put some pieces of 3/8" thick plywood around the plate as needed to support the skin. Then throw the plate in the cabinet for six months until I need it again!
 
Back rivet plate

fl-mike said:
Don't overthink it, it's just a hunk of steel. Blanchard ground looks nice, but a reasonably smooth surface is fine, which as others said can accomplished via sanding. Break or put a slight radius on the edges to avoid surprise scratches.
3/8" is a good thickness. For me, I find backriveting works best on a concrete (garage) floor. I just put some pieces of 3/8" thick plywood around the plate as needed to support the skin. Then throw the plate in the cabinet for six months until I need it again!
Click to expand...

Agreed
Mine came with the tool kit but it's basically the same as the Cleveland. I cleaned it with 400 and light oil till it was smooth and almost polished. Took a piece of plywood and relieved a hole in the center to fit. Drew alignment lines so I can see where the plate is located. Don't overthink it.
 
Thanks!!

Thank you all for the contributions and perspectives. I was definitely over thinking it. I'll be building a dedicated backriveting table and will post pictures here of the finished product.

Thanks again to the brain trust,

Steven
 
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