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Oshkosh

Hi JJ,
Yes, Oshkosh is the plan.
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Katie has never been there. We were going to fly both RV-4s there this year. Work is really interfering though. Been working 7 day weeks and long hours since first of December. Supposed to go back to normal hours at the end of the week so will be putting in long hours at airport to make headway. The good thing is my finish kit/engine/panel is already done and waiting to install.

Are you going to Oshkosh this year?
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Canopy frame progress

Getting the canopy frame fitted to the fuselage felt like a major step forward, so an update picture seems in order.
Here is the link

More pictures here.

PS Looks like a major tidy up is necessary!
 
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Bend it

Steve,
I am stressing over your thoughts about cutting the front bow. Bend it up slightly where the angle changes along the rail. Right at the wide curved piece where the front skins join the side skins. This will raise the whole bow up to meet the level of the forward fuse top skin. Based on the photographs your frame fits pretty well. I agree, some minor tweeking is needed. Also, don't forget to raise it up on the non hinge side to allow for the gasket material. Should be about 1/8 inch.

Maybe I am not understanding your comments?

Brian Vickers
 
Front bow

Brian, perhaps I did not express myself well. I have not split the front bow and do not now intend to. I am now pretty happy with the fit.

Thanks for your help, encouragement and interest, Steve.
 
Cold beer?

Dennis,
I hope that is a frosty one in your hand because you have turned a corner. Looks great.

Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing
 
Beautiful

Outstanding Dennis,
Be sure to make the baffling skirt lay backwards on that front piece when you install the top cowl,

Regards,
Pierre
 
Brian Vickers RV4 project photos and status

All,

I have been in a state of embedded procrastination over attaching the fiberglass faring at the front of the canopy bubble. Also, summer is here and I have another airplane to fly. A month ago I layed up the small faring and for the first few days it fit perfect. I used Scotch tape to form the radius between the skin and the bubble. It worked perfect. Then the faring aged and warped. I understand this is typical of polyester resin. I worked and worked with heat but the next day it would be back to 99% of its warped shape. Finally I got more aggressive with higher heat and achieved a good fit once again. That was about 9:00 PM two nights ago. It was late in the evening but I decided to install the faring with Flamemaster (Proseal equivalent) while it was behaving. At 12:00 AM I finally had fiberglass reinforced packing tape and shims holding it in the desired position. I am thankful that curing Flamemaster has a long pot life. The next day I removed the ?squeeze out? adhesive with a razor blade and all turned out just fine. This prompted me to remove the factory applied plastic wrap on the bubble for the first time since receiving the finish kit last year. Wow!!! Even my ?nay saying? wife wanted to sit in the pilot seat and close the canopy. The whole family did a little hanger flying.

I get excited to see other RV4 postings no matter how obscure they are. Here are some photos of my shop and project. Not much to explain about the 4. I believe everything is ?as per the drawings.?

Sincerely,

Brian Vickers
Bainbridge Island, WA
RV4 project


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Brian - that looks stupendous! As SZ sais the fit at the rear is excellent. Any tips? How do you now stop the two surfaces abrading each other? Mylar tape on the canopy or what?

I hope mine turns out half as good. I am busy with other tasks to avoid confronting those skins right now.
 
Felt.....

Steve Sampson said:
How do you now stop the two surfaces abrading each other? Mylar tape on the canopy or what?

Hi guys,
Steve, there is a really nice 1/8" thick by 1 1/2" wide felt tape that's adhesive on one side and works well on our -6A slider. I believe GAHCO or Spruce may sell it.

Regards,
Pierre
 
Canopy to skin contact

Pierre, Steve, others,
When closing the canopy, the side skins do touch down and then spread out to form the tight fit. The fuselage skins are already scuffed. Something is needed. I was thinking of using something on both contact surfaces. Maybe a protective ?stick on? material over the fuselage skin. In the past I have purchased a wide, thin, clear adhesive backed tape like material for bike frames. I race bikes and the cables and other things tend to wear through the paint on the bike frame if you don?t put a clear guard layer on. The product is called Frame Guard. Vinyl is too soft and yellows. The felt is a good idea but it is thick and you have a visible line. My wife suggests attaching a thinner fabric strip and then loading it with wax. It only has to extend in about ? inch from the edge. The fabric is a combination gasket and vehicle for holding the wax. This is what I will try at some point. Last night I removed the canopy by pulling the hinge pin and put it in the attic. I don?t see any reason to risk damage while work continues on the interior and firewall. I obtained a large plastic sofa bag at the local furniture store to put over the canopy while sitting in storage.

Thanks very much for the exchange of ideas.

Sincerely,

Brian Vickers, RV4 project
Bainbridge Island, WA
 
I was thinking that (provided I can get the tight fit you have) that the mylar tape VANS sell for the flaps might work? The felt would be great if the fit is less good I think.

Thanks for the inputs.
 
Canopy to Skin Contact

My canopy fits pretty close and does rub in a couple of spots. I put a layer of the heavy clear tape that Van's sells for the flap rub strip on the turtle deck and trimmed it to follow the contour of the canopy. All of the tape is under the canopy when it is closed. The big problem I had was the canopy buzzing at high speed. Anything over 150 MPH and it would really howl. Distracting to say the least. I put a couple of layers of masking tape around the inside edge of the canopy skirt and managed to stop the howl. Just tonight I was in a craft store and bought a couple of 9" X 12" sheets of thin (maybe 1/16") white felt with adhesive back. I plan to remove the masking tape and cut the felt to fit. I think it will be perfect for this application. It's amazing at the different places you find airplane parts!

Did I mention how great this airplane is? I cannot encourage you more to get yours flying. You will not be disappointed.

Jerry Isler
RV-4 N455J
Hangered in Bainbridge, GA (not Washington)
38 out of 40 hours in phase 1
 
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Brians -4

This is my buddy, Brian and his -4. Note the very clean uncluterred dash.

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Pierre
 
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Progress as of 6/23/07

Working on cowl....top & bottom fitted. Some minor glassing around the intake opening. Trim upper sides and install side hinges.

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Just 90% of work to go...

Some days I feel like this 'project' rules my free time but I guess progress is slowly being made making it worth it! Working on the engine amd electrical 'plumbing' now. Probably won't paint the cowl until the plane is flying...sometime this fall???

O-360/BA Hartzel/Dynon/VM1000/Becker/296

Aprox 4 more inches front cockpit room, comfy for a 6 footer!!!

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Fastback -4s

Gents:

I really like your fastbacks! You fellows have done some great work.

Bill, I hope to fly up and see yours in the flesh soon.

Cheers,

Deal Fair
RV-4 (N34CB) flying/mods
George West, TX
 
Excellent!!!

Steve & Tim,
It's always heart warming to see another 4 moving toward first flight. Thanks for posting and keeping us in the loop.

Sincerely,
Brian Vickers, RV4 - wrapping up panel mania... next... firewall forward fantasia!!!
 
Beautiful!

What a stunning paint job Steve........beautiful indeed. You're so close now but I can assure you guys that all the blood, sweat and tears were not in vain. These -4's fly so well and as Smokey said earlier, he wanted a 180 MPH Super Cub and now has one.

Congratulations,
 
Pierre, kind and encouraging words. Thanks. I am so exhausted after the blitz of painting last week I have done almost nothing this week. Plenty yet to do, and dumb questions, but I begin to believe it will fly in '08.

Good news on the new -4 you have been involved with. Well done!

There has been more activity on my blog looking at the paint scheme than ever before.

Best wishes,
 
Great going Steve

Steve,
Looks very good my friend. I can't wait for the video showing you coming over the fence at the end of your landing strip. I am also very interested in a PIREP on your engine prop combo. After I get my O320D1A powered RV4 operating I would like to upgrade to the 2 blade MT. Keep charging toward first flight!!!

Sincerely,
Brian Vickers
RV4 finishing, Bainbridge Island, WA
 
Brian / Deven - thanks for the nice comments, but the credit goes to John Stahr. He did a super job. I only dreamed up a few ideas which he turned into reality.

If it is not painted I really think it is worth having a chat with John.

As for charging over the fence I cant decide if you have seen the video or not. Its in a Supercub, not my -4, but just in case you havnt you can get to it from here. http://gikon.blogspot.com/ Its 1020'.

I dont make comittments to myself as to when first flight will occur, but less than a year now. Still lots to do.

I'll be off the air for a few weeks. Got to attend to other stuff.
 
First Flight N40DB

Dar came A/W cert was issued first flight happened. what a day! can't believe how well this plane flew makes all the nights stuck in the hanger worth it.
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Congratulations. keep those pics. comming. When You get time could you give us a few details, empty wt. eng, prop? Thats a beautiful ship.
 
Very sharp Dennis, of course, I'm a big fan of yellow. Your paint job is proof that sometimes less is more...beautiful! Good luck on the first flight!

Brian
 
Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. After a few days of flying i'm still feeling like a kid at christmas.
440DB is a simple RV-4 using a mid time O-320 150 HP engine with a catto 69X72 two blade prop ,very smooth and preforms just as he said it would, the only frills i let myself indulge in are the aoa system and the oregon aero seats. weight was 934lbs empty with the CG at 71.9 in.
I'm still amazed at the lack of takeoff roll and the 1500 ft/min climb.

the date on the A/W cert is 10/31. seemed to fit with the theme of the project

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It's coming together!

The -4 forum seems to have been a bit quiet recently so I thought a progress update might help on the enthusiasm front. Sudenly things are starting to come together.

Today I put the first instrument into the panel. It is in fact most of my instrumentation. It is stupendous! http://gikonhome.blogspot.com/2008/01/afs3400.html#links

Recently I completed the fuel system. http://gikonfuse.blogspot.com/2008/01/fuel-system-inside-fuselage-is-complete.html#links

I have also just about completed installing the 4-pipe exhaust. http://gikonfwf.blogspot.com/2008/01/baffles-exhaust-stays-fuel-and-carb.html#links I have to say Vetterman's support was first rate. #1 pipe was a little close to the sump. Long before I had given up on getting it to work, he said "I think I will make you a new pipe." Within a week it arrived in the UK.
 
It's been marvellous to sit and read the posts and check the piccies.

I am in the process of resuming building and I really need to collect my thoughts and remember where I got to last, making lists of things that need to be purchaced etc. I will pack my camera next time and maybe share a few piccies of my own.

The project is at the firewall forward / painting stage and is actually quite close to flying.

There is nothing really novel about my RV - 4 however, thematicly it will be very simple. I have a few hours in Tiger Moths and I like that bare bones idea of sport flying. I will be puting in a G Meter as well as a minimum panel since I would be more comfortable calibrating my aerobatics technique knowing where my saftey limits are.

I have a permanent magnet generator from a kubota tractor which I will research into using since it is light and simple and should be very reliable.

One thing I am researching is building my own prop. A mate of mine who built a Fly Baby that is a work of art, told me building wood props is a peice of **** and when the time came he would show me how. The bugger went and bloody well died on me though. It would be kinda nice to build one for Old Ron's sake.

It will probably be a good idea to blog the project as well since this would be a good way to collect one's thoughts and focus ones efforts as well as being a bit of fun and a way of sharing ideas.

Thank you gentlemen for sharing your enthusiasm !!

Regards

markabolton at yahoo dot com
 
Nice!

Thanks Bill! Your FB-4 continues to look great and encourages me to keep plugging away on mine!
 
Progress

RV-4 enthusiast,

This website is more interesting if people contribute content so here are a few photos and details of the lastest chapter of my project, "Wing Root
Fairings; A Road Less Traveled."

For a long time I have been procrastinating on the wing root fairings. I want to paint the wings before bringing them to the airport hanger for final assembly, but those darn fairings!!! It seems that most builders opt for the flat stock with rubber molding mod. The RV-4 retro look was appealing so I decided to attempt the use of the OEM kit parts. The rolled angle aluminum strips were the easy part. A little stretching along the edges made them fit nice and tight. The fiberglass needed considerable caressing. In the photos you can see where I had to scarf on a small extension to the aft end of the right side fairing. It was a major victory to finally get all the edges evenly down on the aluminum. I have not yet eased the edges or sanded the original white gel-coat. The next step will be to mix up some epoxy and Cabosil (liquid shim), and then install them to get zero tolerance. That should fill the very slight gaps here and there. I will then taper the edges so they don't look so bulky and thick.

Like the builder manual says, spring tension holds them against the fuselage sides. There are only two screws in the sides of the fuselage. One at the tail end of the aluminum fairing; another where they overlap. The nutplate/screw at the overlap is in the area above the spar so it is hidden.

Anyway, I'm pleased with the result and thought it worthy of sharing because most builders... take the other road.

Sincerely,

 
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Impressive....

Very nice looking...To say the least!
Funny, but I was just talking over doing the same thing with Bob Avery. I had pulled out the aluminum and glass pieces and was giving them the "evil eye"...
Thanks for the encouragement.
 
Well done.

I've also been looking at the same parts wondering what to do. Now I have the inspiration to move forward and complete this step on mine as well. Well done and thanks for the photos.
 
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