Vans Static Port Lines

Getting ready to attach the tail cone to the fuse. Before doing so, want to complete a couple of items in tail while it's still separated.

I'm using the stock Van's static line (pop rivet style), but am unclear about instructions. Below is a pic of what I have done with the "T". The 2 sides going into the shop side of the pop rivet fit nicely on the T. But the 3rd leg that goes to the cabin area, I first slipped on the 1/8" OD clear tubing, then pushed on top of that the 1/8" ID poly tubing, and seems like good tight fit. However, instructions call for a 1/8" ID clear sleeve. All I have is a 1/4" ID clear sleeve (see clear tube sitting on bench).?? Not sure if I use it? If so, how? (double sleeve over the poly?)

Also, any tricks to driving mandrel out of rivet would be helpful. I'm a one man show today, don't have a 2nd set of hands at this time.

I know this can't be that hard, just confused at this point. Any advice would appreciated.

I believe I cut a piece of the clear tubing, pushed in on the tee barb and then put the rigid tubing over that - double sleeved as you say. Agree the instructions are not that clear, but this is what I assumed they were trying to say.

The mandrel drives out easily. Put the pop rivet in a vice so the jaws support the flange and drive it out with a pin punch. Don?t squish the rivet body in the vice it is just a convenient way to hold and support the flange. You can also drill a hole in a wood block or stock and do the same.

Rivets/Static Ports Already Set?

You may have already partially set the pop rivets. If so, the mandrels will be harder to drive out. If light taps don't do it, I'd wait until you have help with an appropriate back up block on the back side.

Some of us are not partially setting the pop rivets. You can often push the mandrel out by hand by pushing on the rivet with the mandrel against a hard surface. Then drill the hole in the fuselage with a unibit to get a round hole. If the rivet doesn't want to press in, enlarge the hole slightly with a 1/8th drill bit held in your fingers. Put some sealant/adhesive under the head of the rivet, push it into place, and secure it with some tape until the sealant cures. Take a little extra care on the back side with sealant since you won't have the ridge in the shank of the rivet to help hold the tubing on.

Cheers, David
RV-6A A&P

koupster said:

Some of us are not partially setting the pop rivets.

Click to expand...

If this is true, it may explain why some people complain that the tube does not stay attached....
When the rivet gets set, the rivet body diameter gets bigger which makes the small tube fit tightly.

rvbuilder2002 said:

If this is true, it may explain why some people complain that the tube does not stay attached....
When the rivet gets set, the rivet body diameter gets bigger which makes the small tube fit tightly.

Click to expand...

I was worried I did something wrong until I saw your post Scott. I had fully set the pop rivets already.

Here was my solution... Slightly ground a little off the shop end just to get rounded shop end flush with stem. Once I did this, took stem from pulling the rivet and knocked out the remaining portion of the stem left inside the rivet.

After grinding a small portion flat, stem came out VERY easy! Was able to do by myself (no need for 2nd set of hands for backing plate). And, the tube fit VERY snug onto the expanded stem. Put on RTV, and should be good to go.

Thanks for the help!