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Oil cooler Shutter Installlation

OldNavy

I'm New Here
This is my first post to the VAF Forums. I'm looking for help and info on installing an AntiSplat Aero Oil Cooler Shutter; and, I would appreciate any guidance that you may be able to give me..
I have an RV-7 with a Mattituck IO-360 that has the Oil cooler at the rear baffle wall by the #4 cylinder. I also purchased a push-pull cable so that I can control the adjustable openings on the Oil cooler shutter. I live in NW NJ and I fly at least once a week since it is good for the engine (and, even better for me !!). But, Winter flying makes it hard to get my Oil Temp above 160F. I have been using foil tape to cover the Oil cooler; but that requires taking off the cowling before each flight to adjust the foil tape depending on the anticipated OAT.
Hope that you can help,
Thank you, OldNavy
 
Nothing magic, but it does take proper attention to fitting. My Vans sourced was tight and since the location requires sandwich between the cooler and baffles, the ripples in the surfaces made it too tight to move. I used some thin washers (one on each side at each fastener) and then filled the gap with RTV. The washer between the shutter and the cooler allows more air to flow to, as some of the shutter would block airflow through the fins. No fin trimming needed.

Be warned, I was concerned about being too tight, but now, after only 12 hours it won't stay in one position. It moves like butter. Since the shutter is parallel to the rocking vibration of the engine, it tends to settle in between a maximum position. Point being- you might want a provision to ensure it stays where you want it, not just a slippery Bowden cable. YMMV I am considering a vernier control.

Edit: Thanks Joe [RV7Flyer] I will certainly check out the McFarlane cables.
 
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I installed one of my own design, but it can block 100% of the cooler. I find that it makes little improvement in the winter. 160 may seem cold, but it depends on where you are taking the reading. The actual oil in use may be above 160. All temperatures are relative, not absolute.
The reason the shutter is fairly ineffective is because the vernatherm shuts and keeps the oil from going to the cooler when the oil is cold. In the winter the cooler is bypassed a large percentage of the time.
 
Photos

I’ve just installed mine and it works great. I keep it closed until the oil temp reaches 180 then modulate it to keep it that way. I live up in Canada so it’s still cold, even at 20 degrees OAT it’s great and I can achieve anything from 150-220 degrees with shutter modulation. . We’ll see what the summer brings..

First remove the oil cooler. You then have to create a flush baffle surface to mount the shuttler to. This involves removing protruding material from the rear of the standard baffle. I used several files. You will also need to remove about 6 rivets, countersink the baffle and instal flush rivets in their place.

Next match drill the shutter holes to the existing cooler/baffle holes.

The bolts in the photo are just to hold the shutter in place for a photo. Obviously the shutter is sandwiched between the baffle and cooler.

The whole process takes a full morning.

D17_FD012-_AC50-4_DA8-8201-2207_F9_C77_EEE.jpg
 
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Nothing magic, but it does take proper attention to fitting. My Vans sourced was tight and since the location requires sandwich between the cooler and baffles, the ripples in the surfaces made it too tight to move. I used some thin washers (one on each side at each fastener) and then filled the gap with RTV.

Be warned, I was concerned about being too tight, but now, after only 12 hours it won't stay in one position. It moves like butter. Since the shutter is parallel to the rocking vibration of the engine, it tends to settle in between a maximum position. Point being- you might want a provision to ensure it stays where you want it, not just a slippery Bowden cable. YMMV I am considering a vernier control.

All of my cables (oil cooler shutter, alternate air, cabin heat) are these:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/controlsMC6150.php

with custom laser engraving. I can adjust my oil temperature to within a degree, and the lock keeps the shutter (or anything else you use these for) exactly where you want it.
 
I installed one of my own design, but it can block 100% of the cooler. I find that it makes little improvement in the winter. 160 may seem cold, but it depends on where you are taking the reading. The actual oil in use may be above 160. All temperatures are relative, not absolute.
The reason the shutter is fairly ineffective is because the vernatherm shuts and keeps the oil from going to the cooler when the oil is cold. In the winter the cooler is bypassed a large percentage of the time.

There is always some oil flow through the oil cooler, regardless of oil temp.
When the vernatherm path is open it provides a second path, but it doesn't force all of the oil to bypass the cooler. This is done to prevent oil from congealing within the cooler in very cold temps.

It is also why blocking the cooler during cold weather does raise the oil temp (otherwise blocking it would do nothing)
 
I’ve just installed mine and it works great. I keep it closed until the oil temp reaches 180 then modulate it to keep it that way. I live up in Canada so it’s still cold, even at 20 degrees OAT it’s great and I can achieve anything from 150-220 degrees C with shutter modulation. . We’ll see what the summer brings..

First remove the oil cooler. You then have to create a flush baffle surface to mount the shuttler to. This involves removing protruding material from the rear of the standard baffle. I used several files. You will also need to remove about 6 rivets, countersink the baffle and instal flush rivets in their place.

Next match drill the shutter holes to the existing cooler/baffle holes.

The bolts in the photo are just to hold the shutter in place for a photo. Obviously the shutter is sandwiched between the baffle and cooler.

The whole process takes a full morning.

D17_FD012-_AC50-4_DA8-8201-2207_F9_C77_EEE.jpg


Wait 150-220C? I hope that's a typo. That's 300-430F.
 
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Your mileage may vary

I just installed the AntiSplat oil cooler shutter last month and ran into a couple of issues. I'm not sure if the baffle kits that Vans provides have changed over the years but I got my IO360 baffle kit in 2014. Here's a few pictures and description of the issues I ran into to while installing this on my Mattituck powered RV8.

The cooler bolt centerline does not match up with the shutter door centerline on each side. It actually measures 3 13/16" and I was able to center it and drill the holes with no effect on the shutter operation. Doesn't leave a whole lot of room for error though.

pfB7pJJLeYrM54tPYQ_jlzUZjdnDv5-q-r-CLCl-u1K6BDuUZNXRMCp9TziGwO2ZNqDp10pgAb3KsonSOLhRaAscPfz0C8Ub96PdjqfASvkhiAqyqAA5eo3Zruu0N8mlF5Wi4PcD4c4=w2400


In order for the actuator arm to move freely, I had to grind down a small portion of the upper cooler fins and braces. The oil cooler is the standard one provided by Vans (Niagra cooler I believe).

aYApgodVycwQixad3u1lWYAC_Xdq4jh5XzYJ5tivFQTJS7J4Vb6tj56K-4yJDRKlH87W3OHlpcAd2_FI1fuZSnpoV3tuOraxtDvSozC6s7TXczFRu2eodz-KBnrMTT4Lio9SqFPa15w=w2400


The baffle upper and lower edges come from Vans with a preformed curved section. I had to squeeze these flat so that the shutter door would lay flush and flat against the baffle.

jKEwVzFuDkCNpaHv1q6JFdReCn2gbR5LMIzBmn4-DPmULJVzssrcwWJbLiuO_2lGLGmhiVHaE5QjR0LBcVb6HN_Ij1m8lDgwb9-NnUejwklQMhPS96q0W4FLUQdIK6HcBX2Fj3ILMMo=w2400


The top right bolt which was an AN3-4A had to be replaced with an AN3-5A to accommodate the thickness of the shutter. The bottom right bolt originally had a spacer installed under the bolt head per plans that had to be removed for the same reasons. The spacer was there to stop it from contacting the cylinder fins.

nRTNdXXvgi3Kl7a6RBEVN9t6rqXG7NdlMWVrE4jGUwtlpjkt8l6_rU3AVaR1IcKG9DYjARZmfXHclxKKpmBvLffF4SAshdwx4M3P6YnKBbr8jlY7KSbZH5kgocta_68VSbCAo_0D2tk=w2400


Here's a picture of the Bowden control cable installed:

DpM7d-I_BIkemyaFgfFyAiM_wLhRWZhrWaMr_7FgMqP1tTCLrMbn0sGnXh5TJUP4dX_88a_oUKv3t8Oe5RHSFVJGdB285BUsWz5V6VoV9EjrV7--4Rel-WuEg_0iG2UI9DA7Cx6Y8xc=w2400


I've flown with it installed on my RV8 for a few weeks now and it works great. I'm finally able to regulate the oil temperature and get it consistently above 180 degrees for the first time. Before this, the cooling was so efficient that 170 degrees was about the best I could do even in the heat of the TN summer.
 
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Thank you

A very big 'Thank you' to all of you for helping me with this project. I ended up installing the shutter on the back/exit air side of the cooler. I'll try to attach a picture of the installation. Again, Thank you very much.
PS: Hate to admit this, but I could not figure out how to attach a picture, sorry
 
A very big 'Thank you' to all of you for helping me with this project. I ended up installing the shutter on the back/exit air side of the cooler. I'll try to attach a picture of the installation. Again, Thank you very much.
PS: Hate to admit this, but I could not figure out how to attach a picture, sorry

Good to hear you got it done, but don't be surprised at the reduced effectiveness in cold weather. Be prepared to move it to the front if it does not meet your flying conditions. It is very effective in the front.
 
Nothing magic, but it does take proper attention to fitting. My Vans sourced was tight and since the location requires sandwich between the cooler and baffles, the ripples in the surfaces made it too tight to move. I used some thin washers (one on each side at each fastener) and then filled the gap with RTV. The washer between the shutter and the cooler allows more air to flow to, as some of the shutter would block airflow through the fins. No fin trimming needed.

Be warned, I was concerned about being too tight, but now, after only 12 hours it won't stay in one position. It moves like butter. Since the shutter is parallel to the rocking vibration of the engine, it tends to settle in between a maximum position. Point being- you might want a provision to ensure it stays where you want it, not just a slippery Bowden cable. YMMV I am considering a vernier control.

Edit: Thanks Joe [RV7Flyer] I will certainly check out the McFarlane cables.

Bill,
I'm sure the McFarlanes will work. ACS brand also has a push to unlock cable. A-700 button lock. The center button is smaller but works the same. I had to use one on my heater valve because the ratchet style cable from Vans would not hold it in place. Tried messing with the ratchet spring but to no avail.
 
I tried that

Due to ease of installation I initially mounted the shutter on the rear of the cooler too but It didn?t work effectively. To raise the oil temperature I still had to tape the front of the cooler closed. Take the time and locate it properly between the baffle and cooler. It?s the only way it works if you?ve got cold outside air temperatures.
 
Due to ease of installation I initially mounted the shutter on the rear of the cooler too but It didn?t work effectively. To raise the oil temperature I still had to tape the front of the cooler closed. Take the time and locate it properly between the baffle and cooler. It?s the only way it works if you?ve got cold outside air temperatures.

Why should it matter whether you throttle the flow at the inlet side rather than the outlet side of the cooler? The only reason I could see is significant leakage around the perimeter of the louver mounting plate letting air through the cooler even with the louvers closed.
 
Why should it matter whether you throttle the flow at the inlet side rather than the outlet side of the cooler? The only reason I could see is significant leakage around the perimeter of the louver mounting plate letting air through the cooler even with the louvers closed.

Steve,
Real world experience has proven it does matter.
Blocking the flow off at the back does raise the temps some, but there is apparently a lot of cooling that still occurs just from cold air blowing on the exposed front side of the cooler, even if there is no flow through it.
Blocking at the rear works for moderately cold temps like we have here in W. Oregon but in very cold temps, it probably isn't enough. That is were blocking at the front is beneficial, though the style of block-off being discussed here is detrimental to some degree in hot temps because even full open it is blocking the inlet flow somewhat so some users might have to remove it during the summer.
 
It is not about how much the area will flow, it is the blocking.

Anti Splat Aero claims their shutter doesn't block any of the air flow when fully open:
"No restriction, when fully open these will flow 35% more air than the oil cooler will pass."​
They may claim this but that does not make it true. There is a blocking of a portion of the fin flow area by the cross bars, especially when it is mounted right against the face of the cooler. I spaced mine out .063 with a standard washer to mitigate this somewhat.

Edit: Lets assume that the statement that shutter flows more air than the cooler can is true. It implies that there is no reduction in cooling capacity. Lets look at a couple of facts: Fact 1. it does present an additional flow restriction in the path of air flow through the cooler, and Fact 2. since the cross bars block a portion of the fins (if mounted in contact with the cooler face) it is impossible that the cooling is not reduced by some relation to that fin area. Granted that the cooler capacity may well have adequate cooling, but it will be diminished for the same upper cowl pressure.
 
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Shutter

Ah thanks Scott, that makes sense.

Both your points are why I used one of these

http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html
on my firewall mounted cooler. The throttle valve is flanged and mounted to the rear baffle.

I'm also installing one of these on my cooler shutter. What a great little device!
http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html

I was thinking of mounting my shutter on the rear of the cooler, but decided to do a little more work and put it on the front. Reading through these notes seems to confirm that this is the best way. I'm thinking of cutting a spacer on the water cutter the same shape and dimensions as the shutter so that it is spaced off the cooler itself my say, 1/8 inch.

Anyone know what kind of bolts bolts hold the cooler on? I need to buy some that are a little longer. I assumed they were AN bolts, but they have an X and OIDO on the head. They are 10/32.

Thanks.
 
Pretty sure mine were AN3-41A, which I had to change to AN3-43A with the shutter installation. You will probably need a dash longer if using an 1/8" spacer. I would measure what thickness you have and order accordingly as everyone does it a little differently.

Al
 
TCW butterfly valve

I see TCW has the butterfly valve available in either 3" or 4" size. Not sure if they are talking swaged end or duct sizing?
An option might be to use a butterfly valve with a lockable Bowden instead of electrical operation. I haven't searched to see if this type butterfly valve is available from other sources.
 
Pics

It took me a while to get around to posting my install using the small linear actuator. I use this all the time now, even during the summer and I'm able to dial my oil temp right where I want it. Here is a short video of the bracket that I cut on the water jet and the actuator working. You can see in the photos that I installed some spacer stock to keep the shutter slight off the cooler so it wouldn't block as much flow and so that it wouldn't pinch the shutter, causing it to bind. Sorry, I'm not having luck posting photos, so I've also included the link that should be public.

https://youtu.be/dW8jteVHq1A

https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146011/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561285352/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561285447/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146166/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146216/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146296/in/photostream/
 
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Any issues with the rear engine compartment heat on the actuator?


It took me a while to get around to posting my install using the small linear actuator. I use this all the time now, even during the summer and I'm able to dial my oil temp right where I want it. Here is a short video of the bracket that I cut on the water jet and the actuator working. You can see in the photos that I installed some spacer stock to keep the shutter slight off the cooler so it wouldn't block as much flow and so that it wouldn't pinch the shutter, causing it to bind. Sorry, I'm not having luck posting photos, so I've also included the link that should be public.

https://youtu.be/dW8jteVHq1A

https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146011/in/dateposted/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561285352/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561285447/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146166/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146216/in/photostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/183582701@N07/48561146296/in/photostream/
 
My Solution to Oil Cooler Airflow Control

I've read many posts in many threads on this topic and seen many different approaches to controlling the effectiveness of the oil cooler. I didn't want to do the Van's louvers because I didn't want any restriction at all on hot days. I also preferred controlling airflow from the aft end, keeping in mind the reservations expressed earlier in this thread. Some builders just block the front of the air cooler as required; others have used louvers or air doors on the front or the back. I saw one interesting design on another thread that featured a flapper door hinged to the back of the cooler and controlled by a cable. That intrigued me... but I would prefer not to have to run another cable through the firewall and have to mount it and control it from the cockpit. So I came up with this: a blocking plate that mounts to the aft end of the oil cooler and is held in place with hinges that bolt to the oil cooler flanges. On days that I'll want to block flow, I just put the plate in place and insert the combo hinge pin. I can also make up other plates that allow partial flow, and build them with matching hinges so that they may be inserted and secured the same as the original. I'd be interested to hear what the VAF hive mind thinks of my solution. Keep in mind; the photos show a mock-up to check fit; I'll share other photos when it is mounted on the baffles.
eKz_uUvUJrmwOhuKvUUynODVZxSQJ_4IfPn1A5tN8n6gYH4b9Q1SmImvktI8fwMGyv8QSnebI4T-SwHLEJ2BfFr6f_dEgP0F2d2Fi5pUD_5904-JI27v1WXNH27JMT0KI5VGoysSZ_iZMfxLBs9KTlHdEgIFiSAGrRg4EzzixLkgCHUBIgGoNmXNrZy5v3JwJ1ZD-02E-oY6stkypswQMlCzbNqUK7_H9DisR7Z_5IzLFp2Yxp3HMG-L4Lmk_5uF0qHqYiwPYwAXtTA3Mp4EWyMhmz6ioPDzU_zC8gCo4E-vGGw-pJ1k_Oz9VZmBEGGtFF8_wR7U7HwNDn3GN87jM9VGEZLAQA-3gOVNl9kJFcOnbsYPFUTKQnDOPGCitJwLh3ZeXe3FkgNh14BtkYu9SD048fkHBuhXH3c04_Oj8xFKEuMyAx1E0XxFWC8StiNPs06TEYrQkH985P4DutICJ1TTQta4e9z0Oqac8v6Qy5FhCeQzwTFwFi4XAP2UaXmjOsWuaigABKk7wZqWUDrUePaXCYexTlI2bGi7FpLntLvkKWVSpRvEmFCTIv1-75r3rfgguikvAM-pWMzASjPH4fy5tP3cD7Vn-JOGIRYJD-gatHEJUYKFPcggY10nbS0_OcVVUV2BuAc3SlMuKRmv27S91KbclmlUuBsFuTph2-b_TfBBP3kxCfI=w1080-h720-no

OjbIvRLrzm6POz2UMjIzx6-kuXwvWjXBuiV8SlMfXzQNol-L1H2I32EpRbWwR4ksPsu8PyIR85QAsi5nSMV4qeVmq1eytHgQ3JZtnmVXzYR5eWBeZuKgt21M7ATxM-EWR_SCrqkmLcQ2d78oja47FlOuel5O8dX34efqLYDHbdmK5MWGEUHw36sG7KJRrURUDKIxa711HkwVlIRrXwzIUikBXaDZ5ogqJG8Hm1l7d1EwOyPIq0O7eLi1nzTIAm9wKwSWNIezcpxpETK3mimvYi57GvvtofgwrkTayRkrdJcgMebLZwGfo4TtrGkgsw0gNfXr-V0-zZ839peygOpiqH5xpbbVPv3yLmfbJEwiyo6Mj9awp2vUPsa97K4D4KxntKKJ4JxGtS5nwCOxG1VeAKHA9fKitYe-HBoXlVcrmAo8hqRJsjgWSkE5xvNcPpukGnWL_CsNC6W7nOrIpXo2aUE9yMoiitzmhYuTDTmN6wiqrgR5BvweajulCbfl2IVEXfwdMlnHSzhQkQhSqHeB5SIjPx1CcCFwfFFeHw5Yu8TqaneOjCLtLnVddJh6s7F5FzGWZt4KWzdUFl4g9nAsCLI9A2Xqto2AxU_cUv7WA2n39-w3BoOmHR35mDWaw7Gdb2hXUvBpqaWF_lMneITxtX5yHl-WOwd-UV9z8T8EbNHVK4WEhkhfNFw=w1080-h720-no
 
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I've read many posts in many threads on this topic and seen many different approaches to controlling the effectiveness of the oil cooler. I didn't want to do the Van's louvers because I didn't want any restriction at all on hot days. I also preferred controlling airflow from the aft end, keeping in mind the reservations expressed earlier in this thread. Some builders just block the front of the air cooler as required; others have used louvers or air doors on the front or the back. I saw one interesting design on another thread that featured a flapper door hinged to the back of the cooler and controlled by a cable. That intrigued me... but I would prefer not to have to run another cable through the firewall and have to mount it and control it from the cockpit. So I came up with this: a blocking plate that mounts to the aft end of the oil cooler and is held in place with hinges that bolt to the oil cooler flanges. On days that I'll want to block flow, I just put the plate in place and insert the combo hinge pin. I can also make up other plates that allow partial flow, and build them with matching hinges so that they may be inserted and secured the same as the original. I'd be interested to hear what the VAF hive mind thinks of my solution. Keep in mind; the photos show a mock-up to check fit; I'll share other photos when it is mounted on the baffles.

I actually use (close) my vans shutter all summer long to dial in the temp right to 200F. If I didn't, it would be high 170's low 180's. If I'm up high, even in August, I really need to close it down to get me temps where they should be.

Construction looks very nice, though!
 
Hi Martin,

That's very nice!

I understand that it is mounted on the aft side of the cooler. My first RV-8 (Parallel Valve IO-360-A1A) would have low oil temps in the cooler months here in the Pacific Northwest. After checking the oil temp probe for accuracy, the first thing I did was block off the back side of the cooler. That didn't do a whole lot to bring the temps up since the cooler still sees a fair amount of cold air. I had to block off most or all of the front side to get the temps up in the Winter.

With my current RV-8 (Parallel Valve IO-360-M1B), I just block off the front of the cooler in the Winter months and don't bother about the back side at all. Even in the Summer up here, I have to block off 25 to 50% of the front side of the cooler.

In the Winter months in Michigan, it will be tougher to keep the temps up, I would think.

Carl is correct. These need to go on the front side of the cooler to be most effective. There are quite a few posts by builders in a number of threads here on VAF who put them on the back and ended up moving them to the front. I put mine on the front of the cooler and with OATs in the high teens, my old temps are at best, in the low 180's, with the shutter fully closed.

What I like most about the shutter is that with OAT's at anything above the mid 20's, I can dial the temp right where I want it within +/- 2F.
 
Note that per the Lycoming Operator's Manual for the O-360 Series, 180?F is the desired oil temp. So that is a fine temp to shoot for.

On many days in the Winter I can't get to 180?F with the cooler fully blocked off. But I can usually get above 165?F, well above the Min temp of 140?F per Lycoming.


I'm sure there are many opinions on oil temps. I was in the 180F camp as the target, but the mechanic that I've grown to trust said he really likes to see 200-210F to burn off condensation. Paul McBride seemed to agree that 185-210 in cruise was ideal, so now I target 200F and with the help of my shutter, can get there on any day above 25-30F OAT. I don't have any hard data, but my engine seem to run a bit more efficiently at 200F vs 180F.

https://generalaviationnews.com/2011/02/09/ask-paul-whats-up-with-my-oil-temperature/
 
Thanks for the additional input. As always, I'll continue to seek solutions, optimal and/or practical... I just can't wait until I get the opportunity to find out whether I have a problem!
 
I have one of these shutters for sale - new and uninstalled. Found out it won't work with the large oil cooler that is standard on the -10. I went with the TCW 4" SCAT butterfly instead.

$109 new; $85 shipped Priority Mail. PM me.
 
I have one of these shutters for sale - new and uninstalled. Found out it won't work with the large oil cooler that is standard on the -10. I went with the TCW 4" SCAT butterfly instead.

$109 new; $85 shipped Priority Mail. PM me.

Bill, is this still for sale?
 
Linear actuator

For those using a linear actuator keep in mind the servo might fail in the closed position (Ask me how I know). I installed a blast tube on the servo to insure it stays cooler. So far ok. I also now open it when I take off to insure there is cooling on climb out. (I would close it to help the oil warm up quicker) The servo is limited to 158 F. When I disassembled it there are some plastic parts that seem to have deformed causing the failure.
 
For those using a linear actuator keep in mind the servo might fail in the closed position (Ask me how I know). I installed a blast tube on the servo to insure it stays cooler. So far ok. I also now open it when I take off to insure there is cooling on climb out. (I would close it to help the oil warm up quicker) The servo is limited to 158 F. When I disassembled it there are some plastic parts that seem to have deformed causing the failure.

which servo are you talking about?
 
I have a question. I needed a spacer between my shutter and the baffle to clear some rivet heads on the back side of the baffle on the top and to give more clearance to the cable end fitting. I used 1/8th inch silicon and I made a gasket with it. It seems to fit perfectly. Am I making a mistake? Will the flexibility of the silicon gasket be a problem or is it an advantage? Should I have cut an aluminum spacer instead? What do you say?
 
I installed one of the Anti-Splat shutters a couple years back replacing a slide in plate I used in the winter. I don't have the actuator cable installed yet but just have it safety wired open. I have found that the oil temp gets hotter in higher altitude, high power operations even with it fully open. Last winter, I wired it totally shut and it did keep the oil temps warmer, of course. I find I have the cowl off often enough that seasonal adjustment is OK for now. I was concerned about the hot oil temps last summer, though. I had double checked to see if it was fully open and it was. I'd never seen oil temps that high in my airplane.
 
I bought the Anti-splat shutter along with the Bowden cable that Alan sells, and I had my A&P install it while he was doing the annual condition inspection last May. Pretty straightforward, although he did have to use slightly longer mounting bolts. Everything I read indicated that these should be mounted between oil cooler and baffle for best effect, so that’s what I had him do. Alan says that that these shutters impose no restriction on airflow…”when fully open these will flow 35% more air than the oil cooler will pass”. I have no reason to doubt that. I thought about a linear actuator…thought that would be cool, but probably impractical for me and just had him run the cable through the firewall and mount in the corner of the panel where my other airflow knobs are.

The thing works well, the cable pulls smoothly and it is pretty effective. It was more than worth it for the pretty low cost of device plus installation. As winter approaches, I’ll be interested to see what oil temps are in a Minnesota winter.


..
 

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