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New brake pads

RV7A Flyer

Well Known Member
Patron
This is probably a dumb question, but here goes...

Just replaced brake pads after about 260 hours (probably could have gone quite a bit more, but they were getting a little thin and I had to replace tires and tubes anyway due to a puncture in one tube and tread getting pretty worn, so why not?).

Do I need to "recondition" the new pads via the "taxi at 15 mph or so while lightly holding the brakes" or whatever those instructions were? i.e., was that for the *pads*, or the *disc* to get "conditioned"?
 
I recommend folks do a few agressive stops on their next few landings but be sure to let the brakes cool in between, dragging the brakes will cause excessive heat build up and cook your caliper 'O' rings which wll create leaks down the road.
 
Exactly what Walt said. Normal brake usage will break them in. Don't taxi while holding the brakes, or you'll find a puddle of brake fluid when you park.:(
 
As Walt and Jim said, the Conditioning that is printed on paper by the brake manufacturer does not apply to RVs.

One of my friends tried to use the published procedure on his RV-8. When he got back to his hangar, his brakes were on fire. Lucky his son was there and used a fire extinguisher to put the fire out and not damage the RV other than the wheel pants. It was full of fuel.

After doing a run up, I take off and do a landing with HEAVY braking. If brakes do not hold well for run up on the next day flying, I do another takeoff and landing with Heavy braking. Typically doing one landing per month with heavy braking gives me good brake life and good brake function.

If someone has a better RV brake conditioning method, I would like to see it posted here.
 
As Walt and Jim said, the Conditioning that is printed on paper by the brake manufacturer does not apply to RVs.

I'll buy all the rest of the discussion, but I have to ask...

*Why* would it not apply to RVs? The brakes don't know what kind of plane they're on, so what about the manufacturer's process is wrong for RVs, and what's the reasoning?

Not saying this isn't right, just trying to understand what the process is meant to accomplish (physically, chemically, etc.) and why it would matter what sort of plane it is.

BTW, I did use this process on the first set and didn't have any trouble. They lasted as long as they did and probably could have gone another 50-100 hours or more I'm guessing, and I never had any trouble with brake holding/stopping capability.
 
Fly after

What is wrong with high taxi power and stay on the brakes, heats them up. Then takeoff and let the air cool things off. Next time try a run up if the brakes don't hold repeat procedure till it does. This is how I did my first flight, I did no brake pad seasoning before first flight

I did not think of this on my own, a seasoned flight advisor and test pilot who has done many first flights for builders gave me this techmique.

I am at 290 hours, original pads have only lost 2/32 (6/32 new). I do operated mostly off long paved runways and don't have to brake heavily. Once in a while I practice short field ops at the airport I buy fuel at, first turn off is 1100 feet or so, even then some brisk braking at the end is all that is needed if I land nice and slow.

Cheers

Grove wheels and brakes.
 
There is nothing intrinsically wrong with the manufacturer's recommendation to condition the pads while taxiing, except that too many pilots overdue it and overheat the whole brake mechanism. This is made worse in RV's because of the need to use brakes even in normal taxiing.

Doing a landing to glaze the pads is okay too. Just don't use a short field.
 
The brake kits for the 4,6..... and I think they are used on all 2 seaters, are not the best choice for stopping anything but the 3 and 12. Look at the brake application chart. These brakes will be working at their limit if you use them for more than a tap here and there.

There is a disc that is 50% thicker that can replace the existing disc and it will resolve over heating problems.......... Does add weight though.

The kit is sold by Spruce. But you can make the spacers and purchase the bolts and discs for less.
 
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