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Question about Riveting

Pilotjim77

Well Known Member
I am not a builder and have no experience setting rivets. I am replacing my panel, and I will be cutting the old panel and leaving about a one inch perimeter, onto which I would like to screw the new panel for ease of future removal. I will need to rivet several nut plates around the perimeter of the old panel to screw the new panel into. What is the best way to do this? The old panel is out of the airplane, so I can do the work on my bench, but it was not easy to remove (lots of small screws in tight area between the windshield and glare shield).


Thanks,

Jim
 
Ask around your airport for anyone that would have a rivet squeezer and 20 minutes to show you how to install nutplates. Easy job.
 
On another note, if you are doing a major panel makeover and replacing steam gages with a glass panel, weigh all the old items and things removed (note the datum as well) and weigh the new items and hardware so you can recalculate your weight and balance. Sometimes these items weigh quite a bit. Otherwise, you can do a new W&B of the whole plane.

Be careful that your work doesn't impact the structural integrity of the plane and that you are authorized to do this work. If you didn't build the airplane, you may not have the authority to do any changes.

Roberta
 
As a non-builder, let me offer some free advice - worth what you paid fir it!
Every off-plans mod seems to take twice as much time for planning, as for the actual work.
Are you going to not use the 1? of space, all around? This actually is a lot of real estate, but if it works, good. If not, carefully consider support issues where you have to cut into that 1?. Obviously, you won?t want nutplates in such locations.
1. Decide where nutplates will go.
2. Clamp the old and new panels together.
3. Match drill (e.g., thru both panels) the hole for the screw you plan to use.
4. Put a temporary screw and nut thru both pieces, to make sure the panels stay locked together.
5. Repeat for each nutplate (you don?t need temporary screws in all the holes, just enough so the panels won?t shift)
6. Remove the screws, remove all clamps, separate the panels.
7. Debur all holes, both sides.
8. Go ahead and cut out the edge from the old panel. Debur the piece you?re keeping.
9. On the 1? wide, old piece: temporarily ?install? a nutplate, using the correct screw or bolt size. Double check, nutplate on side closest to engine, screw head on side facing pilot. Spin nutplate around until the ?ears? are in the desired orientation, if any. Use a #40 drill, use one ear as a guide, and drill thru the 1? wide aluminum. Insert a silver cleco (or hold a AD3 rivet in this hole; drill #40 thru the aluminum, using the other ?ear? as a drill guide.
10. Repeat for all nutplate locations.
11. Remove all hardware and clecos. Debur all the holes you just drilled.
12. On the side facing the pilot, you will need to drill countersink holes in all the #40 holes you just drilled. Ideally you will have a drill stop/countersink cage, but you can freehand this if you?re careful. The rivets are in shear so if the countersink is a bit too deep, no issue. Test with actual rivet to be sure the rivet head will be flush or a bit below the surface. If it sticks up, countersink more. NOTE: flat head aviation rivets are at a different angle than hardware store countersinks. Make sure you use an ?aviation? countersink.
13. Finally, you?re ready to rivet. Use 3/32? flat head rivets. I would use solid rivets (AD3) and squeeze, but flat head pull rivets are fine here too. You can buy a hand held pop rivet tool for $40 at a hardware store. Note: if you use 3/32? pop rivets from the hardware store, they may have a 45 degree angle on them and then you would want to ignore my previous advice about an aviation countersink. Truth is, the tension load on these rivets is so low that the wrong angle rivet in the wrong countersunk hole will work okay.
 
Be careful that your work doesn't impact the structural integrity of the plane and that you are authorized to do this work. If you didn't build the airplane, you may not have the authority to do any changes.

Roberta

I disagree, assuming this airplane is registered as EAB, anyone can do the work. However, careful consideration of structural integrity is always a good idea.
 
and that you are authorized to do this work. If you didn't build the airplane, you may not have the authority to do any changes.

Roberta

I disagree, assuming this airplane is registered as EAB, anyone can do the work. However, careful consideration of structural integrity is always a good idea.

Correct

Here in the U.S., there is not level of certification or authorization requirement for who can do work on an amateur built experimental aircraft with exception of the yearly condition inspection.
 
+1 for pull rivets. Unless you have an interest in learning to buck rivets or use a squeezer. Get the cheapo harbor freight puller ($8 if I recall), works just fine and you'll be off to the races. Throw the rivets that come with it away though, use proper aircraft ones...
 
Great information, and just what I needed. Thanks to all!

Bob Turner, thank you especially for the time you took.... I will print that and use that as my instruction manual.
 
Dimple

Don't forget that the rivet holes for the nutplates will need to be dimpled or countersunk so the attachment can sit flush. So there are a few more tools that you will need to have.
 
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