FP prop inspection/overhaul

I have been trying to dig through the CARS without much success on this. What are the rules re: overhaul/inspection intervals for fixed pitch props on amateur builts in Canada? I have a Sensenich metal FP prop on my 6A, and have not been able to figure out if I'm required to send it off for overhaul at some point or if I can remove and inspect it myself, or what exactly the rules are.

Any assistance on this appreciated.

No requirement

Hi Gerry,

I just called Hope Aero and spoke with Terry Hope. You won;'t find anything in the CAR's about overhauling a prop for homebuilts/experimentals as it's not there.

He said you should be following the manufacturers recommendations and really have a good look at the prop, especially after 10 years, but there is no requirement to do so for homebuilts in the CARs.

If you want to speak to Terry about it, his number is 905-677-8747.

Cheers,

Don

from Sensenich site

looks like our props now have a 2000 hr TBO.!

http://www.sensenich.com/files/documents/Service_Bulletins_R-17_1263314631.pdf

..but that is not likely binding on amateur-built either. I found the repair guide pretty interesting, especially when I found some deep pits on the back side of the prop ( NOT from rocks etc.) Sensenich did respond to my inquiries and helped describe the field repair.

http://www.sensenich.com/files/docu...le_Shooting_Field_Repair_Specs_1297175134.pdf

Thank you very much, Don and Perry. My prop has been in service for 11 years and 380 hrs, but with hangaring and leading edge tape has less wear, tear and corrosion than my brand new Sensi on my last Cherokee had after a single season tied down on the ramp. I have zero concerns with this prop, although I will probably retorque the bolts this year.

Thanks again for the excellent info!

secret tape???

Gerry, you have to share with us what kind of tape you use?
I use 3M and other adhesive products every day, and have yet to find one that is both conformable, and tough enough for this duty,
( with the confidence that it won't come off, and throw the prop out of balance!!!)
I also hear one secret to a nick-free prop is to never do full throttle runups, and when applying power on the runway, to let the plane roll, rather than standing on the brakes, thus avoiding the 'vacuum' effect.
Your thoughts?

I don't know what tape it is, actually; it was on the prop when I purchased the plane in 2011. It is fairly thick and seems to be very durable, whatever it is. It's transparent and has a slightly rubbery texture. I usually do rolling starts on the runway myself, and run ups at 1700 rpm. Still, with my previous airplanes (without tape) I pretty much had to dress the prop out every year. The differences are the leading edge tape and keeping the plane in a hangar instead of tied down on the ramp. There is a lot of FOD on the ramp due to the necessity of vehicles driving across it to get to the hangars, so just pulling out of your tie-down spot would often result in picking up gravel. The taxiway in front of my hangar is cleaner. Whatever the specific factors at work are, the end result is that after 3 years I have zero nicks in the metal and only a couple of little gouges out of the tape. I find myself wondering at what point I should take the tape off and reapply, but it still seems to be okay and I don't want to mess with it.

Every Year

gerrychuck said:

Thank you very much, Don and Perry. My prop has been in service for 11 years and 380 hrs, but with hangaring and leading edge tape has less wear, tear and corrosion than my brand new Sensi on my last Cherokee had after a single season tied down on the ramp. I have zero concerns with this prop, although I will probably retorque the bolts this year.

Thanks again for the excellent info!

Click to expand...

I know you are in the Great White North, but the US regs, including the FAR Part 43, Appendix D that Experimentals have to follow yearly say this -

Each person performing an annual or 100 hour inspection shall inspect (where applicable) the following components of the propeller group:

(1) Propeller assembly - for cracks, nicks, binds, and oil leakage.

(2) Bolts - for improper torquing and lack of safetying.

(3) Anti-icing devices - for improper operations and obvious defects.

(4) Control mechanisms - for improper operation, insecure mounting, and restricted travel.


I'm not sure how you could check for improper torque without re-torqueing the prop bolts.

Most certified planes will have an annual checklist entry like this -

Check propeller mounting bolt torque. Resafety
propeller mounting bolts.

A yearly check is probably a good idea...

Standard 625 APPENDIX C 6 b)

(b) At intervals of not more than 5 years, the propeller shall be removed from the aircraft and inspected for corrosion or other defects over its entire surface, including the hub faces and the mounting hole bores. While the propeller is removed, it shall also be checked for correct dimensions. However, if defects which require repairs beyond those recommended as field repairs by the propeller manufacturer are found, the propeller shall be repaired by an organization approved for the overhaul of propellers.

625.86 (c)

(b) Owners of non-commercially operated small aircraft and balloons must also comply with Appendix C with respect to out of phase tasks and equipment maintenance requirements.


As best I can tell Standard 625 applies to homebuilts ... I'm not seeing an exception anywhere.

While researching this, I also found the COPA Guide to Am,ateur Built aircraft (http://www.copanational.org/files/COPAGuidetoAmateurBuilts.pdf), which specifically says that 625, and appendixes B & C, apply to amateur-built.

I suspect if you ask TC, you'll get the same point of view ...

So?as I read this, the requirements laid out in app 625 can be met by removing, inspecting, measuring and reinstalling the prop ourselves on a 5 year cycle, unless there is damage beyond the specs for field repair. Seems reasonable; I can live with that.

The COPA guide has some useful details ... but yes, it doesn't have to be onerous ...

Remove, inspect, measure as per manufacturer's recommendations and specs. If dimensions are OK, and the nicks are minimal, you can just dress it and put it back on!

Some people/AMEs will just send it to a shop no matter what every 5 years to have them do the work ... potentially more expensive if it wasn't quite necessary, but of course the work is likely to be more thorough. At my last prop due time, my AME just took it off and shipped it to Hope ... not sure it was necessary mind you, but it comes back looking like new!