Van's Air Force
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Adding Footwells to a -4
- Thread starter RVFlyer
- Start date
Yes.
I did to mine a last year after flying it for 7 years. Finally. I can 't think of where I got the plans, but they are out there somewhere. They are pretty straightforward, you just have to be sure that they do NOT interfere with the aileron push tubes. In mine, this was not a problem. Also, I think some folks say you cant put an aileron servo for your autopilot in the cockpit if you have footwells. Not true. Mine is behind the footwells.
I did to mine a last year after flying it for 7 years. Finally. I can 't think of where I got the plans, but they are out there somewhere. They are pretty straightforward, you just have to be sure that they do NOT interfere with the aileron push tubes. In mine, this was not a problem. Also, I think some folks say you cant put an aileron servo for your autopilot in the cockpit if you have footwells. Not true. Mine is behind the footwells.
Sid Lambert
Well Known Member
Notice how the bottom of his footwells are flat. They need to be flat so they do not interfere with the pushrods. My footwells are sitting on a shelf waiting for me to redo that part. 
Notice how the bottom of his footwells are flat. They need to be flat so they do not interfere with the pushrods. My footwells are sitting on a shelf waiting for me to redo that part.
Actually, on mine the pusrods were in front of the front angle of the footwell. The flat bottoms are just above the bottom skin of the airplane.
Sid Lambert
Well Known Member
That's part of the beauty of the -4, none of them are the same. Most are not even symmetrical.
rvpilot
Well Known Member
Plans....
Plans I have were sent to me by Mitch Garner. Looks to be a page out of an old RVator. You can cut all the parts out of two pieces of .032, one 26 1/2" x 6 1/2" and one piece 4 3/4" x 36". A sheet metal shear really helps make the job easier! I too thought about going the RV8 footwells route, but had the material, so came out a lot cheaper this way. Turns out great both ways I think! Like others have said, just have to watch your pushrod clearance.
I've got the page PDF'd if anyone wants it. Just shoot me your email.
Plans I have were sent to me by Mitch Garner. Looks to be a page out of an old RVator. You can cut all the parts out of two pieces of .032, one 26 1/2" x 6 1/2" and one piece 4 3/4" x 36". A sheet metal shear really helps make the job easier! I too thought about going the RV8 footwells route, but had the material, so came out a lot cheaper this way. Turns out great both ways I think! Like others have said, just have to watch your pushrod clearance.
I've got the page PDF'd if anyone wants it. Just shoot me your email.
Cut this floor skin into 2 sections for ease of maintenance
Tom,
I'm building an 8A, not a 4. However, my RV guru, Jody Edwards (Jody built a 4) gave me some advice here. He told me that it was very difficult to remove the forward floor panel with foot wells riveted in. He said that to remove the floor panel without damaging the paint in the interior was tricky. He later cut the floor skin just inboard of his left foot well, installed a doubler and secured the left section of the floor to the rest with flush #8 nut plates and flush screws. Once he made the floor in two pieces, he found he could easily remove these sections without paint damage.
I took his advice and did the same thing on my 8A. Just my 2 cents.
Charlie Kuss
Tom,
I'm building an 8A, not a 4. However, my RV guru, Jody Edwards (Jody built a 4) gave me some advice here. He told me that it was very difficult to remove the forward floor panel with foot wells riveted in. He said that to remove the floor panel without damaging the paint in the interior was tricky. He later cut the floor skin just inboard of his left foot well, installed a doubler and secured the left section of the floor to the rest with flush #8 nut plates and flush screws. Once he made the floor in two pieces, he found he could easily remove these sections without paint damage.
I took his advice and did the same thing on my 8A. Just my 2 cents.
Charlie Kuss
I designed my own set but made them shallower and more narrow than those of the -8 to get the needed clearance but are still plenty large. You don't necessarily cut your seatfloor...I didn't for mine and it is a little more difficult to remove but not real bad so YMMV.
Glenn Wilkinson
Glenn Wilkinson
Steve Sampson
Well Known Member
rvbldr3170
Active Member
RV-4 footwells
If you have the book "24 years of the RVator" the plans are in there.That's where I got mine from.
If you have the book "24 years of the RVator" the plans are in there.That's where I got mine from.
