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Our secondary door latch

Vern

Vern

Well Known Member
While building our RV-10, we wanted a secondary door latch. We were concerned about possible rescue efforts in case of an accident and complexity and cost.

Here's what we did and so far it works great! A machinist friend, Matt Banks <[email protected]> made the parts and made them adjustable to allow for slight variations in doors. (Matt has a beautiful Fairchild 24 with a Jacobs engine.)

The receiver end has three screws that match the pattern of number -8 screws already there in the fuselage . The door handle needed a simple mod with a doubler plate inside the handle to add strength. The end of the secondary latch arm has a machine grip in it.

doorlatch2.jpg

doorlatch5.jpg

doorlatch1.jpg
 
could this be added to an already built plane.?
I like the looks of it and it should do the trick.
Alan
 
THAT looks like a decent solution, specially for those doors that are alredy done!!!

Great job!!
 
Very Nice!

Simple, works in unison with the existing handles/linkage and looks like it will adapt to my Hendricks handles as well. First solution I've seen that really follows the K.I.S.S. method.
 
Latching

Hey Vern. Looks like a good solution. Quick question, can you get your latch to engage if the rear door pin is not seated?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Latch with rear pin not in place ???

I do not think the secondary latch will engage if the rear pin is out of place, but I'll have to study it more to say absolutely one way or another.
 
Great idea Vern...

Two questions...

1) Is it made from stainless??

2) It looks like theres a 1" x 1" block on the end of the arm to keep it from pulling straight up. Is that really there, or is it just how it appears in the photos?

Thanks,
Phil
 
Secondary latches

Yes, there is a 'notch' machined in to resist vertical pulls. Check with Matt for materials used. It is very strong!
 
Wow very Nice

Hi Vern,
I really really like it WELL DONE.

Thanks for giving us a great idea to build on. Like the human mind is, they see one thing and then try to improve on it. Smaller lighter. I was wondering to take your design make the lever sorter and make the slot smaller and move the slot onto the canopy door frame. One still need to ensure the lever got a key on that fit into the Slot so that you can't get any upwards, backward or outwards movement.

Without permission I hacked your photo to show what I mean...One should be able to retro fit it to existing doors too.
doorlatch_new.jpg


Thanks again for juggling my brain....

Kind Regards
Rudi
 
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Rudi,

Why not put a hook on the arm and a roller latch inside the door jam?

Vern's idea would be great as a retro fit while yours could be done while building.

But what do I know, I’ve only built one -9.
 
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For the enlightenment of others, I've been building next to Vern for some time. I watched Matt design and install this mod and I think it's the answer. In fact, I've ordered a set for myself.
John
 
That is bullet proof!!

IMO, since the latch is totally captive...it cant back out because the main handle is locked and secondly, it cant pull up because the lip is under the striker. One of the nost elegant and simple solutions and the way I'm going. It also solves the rescue effort since the rescue crew would inadvertantly, automatically be releasing the safety'

Thanks much, Vern....cost?

Best,
 
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Great Solution

Now that is a very nice, easy and effective solution.
I would add this to my plane.

Dang, if Van's could have submitted ideas for a couple of weeks imagine what they might have ended up with.
I realize that it does not protect against the accidental opening of the handle during flight but this seem like it would fix most of the accidental openings.

Thanks for posting.
I would probably purchase a set as well.
 
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Deems Davis said:
Come on guys --- Your building an airplane (aren't you?) Looks easy enough to fabricate
Click to expand...

Sorry but at that price lots of guys will be rolling their own...If it was cheaper I think it would have been an easy sell, but at $300 makes one think twice.

Roger Geico 266! :)
 
I cannot latch on to your idea Vern.:)

Pros:
Your solution is elegant, strong, easy to retrofit and all the good things that were said about it.

Cons:
The mechanism is too far forward.
Your lock is not a passive latch that will hold the door shut if you forget to lock it properly.
 
N427EF said:
I cannot latch on to your idea Vern.:)
Cons:
The mechanism is too far forward.
Your lock is not a passive latch that will hold the door shut if you forget to lock it properly.
Click to expand...
I am having a problem resolving if the latch WILL hold the door shut if you forget to lock it properly if you take off in that state. If it doesn't, what is its value other then a CYA for Vans? I all ready have the lights.
 
Ernest
I was like you thinking it was too far forward, until I realized that it's not the back that is the problem. Picture an automobile's door openining at 100 MPH. the hinges are forward and not much will happen. The problem with Van's door is that the back might not be latched and with just a forward pin the door springs back then flyes away. If that forward pin was, lets say threaded in (for argument sake) I doubt the upward forces would be enough to break the forward pin.
If Vern's latch can accomplish this tack then it the best solution I've seen.
 
Matt is currently building my door latches - identical to Vern's. Since I have the advantage of actually seeing them operate, I think it's the perfect solution. I am convinced that you could shave off the pins and this alone would work (although I'm not going to find out - http://www.vansairforce.com/community/images/smilies/biggrin.gif ).
Here are my reasons for thinking it's best:
It's the same handle with the same single motion.
The metal tab goes deep into the slot so there is a lot of surface area holding the door closed.
The tab on the end cannot be pulled up when it's in the receiver.
This needs to be repeated - the door cannot be pried up because the tab is locked in place. A simple pin or latch-over-a-lip would still allow vertical movement.
The door cannot move backward because the receiver acts as a stop.
All the parts are extremely strong - if the door pins were missing and the door tried to bow out at either end, it would put additional pressure on the tab to stay in place.
My two cents,
John
 
Door Latch

It has been a couple of months since you installed the bottom latch. I would like to know if it is still working out well. I need to do mine but have been waiting for all the ideas to surface. I am leaning toward the one you had Matt build. Any feed back would be appreciated.
Doug
N 19JZ
 
Along those lines.....

...is there a decal of some sort relevant to the operation of the -10's door handles that need to be on the outside? For the benefit of rescue workers, since they don't know diddly about having to push the button, or which way to turn the handles.

Thanks,
 
I put an Arrow decal on the outside with the word OPEN so it depicts the direction to turn the handle. Of course we probably should label it more clearly, as you have to push the center button to unlock it first. Although I am of the mindset that a crash in which all cabin occupants are incapacitated will probably have enough damage that opening the doors will be the least of concerns. Come to think of it, I can't recall seing instructions on certified aircraft doors either. Military aircraft seem to have the bright orange RESCUE label. That doesn't mean we shouldn't/couldn't label them more clearly.

Vic
 
pierre smith said:
...is there a decal of some sort relevant to the operation of the -10's door handles that need to be on the outside? For the benefit of rescue workers, since they don't know diddly about having to push the button, or which way to turn the handles.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

IIRC, the DAR wants to see this, but that doesnt mean it stays there after he leaves................

Mel??
 
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