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  #1  
Old 05-02-2017, 05:30 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 681
Default Door fit

Just hung my right door per the plans in regards to using a pointed bolt to find where you drill the 7/16 hole. Problem is it's sitting about an 1/8th or so too far out. Maybe my pointer wasn't straight I don't know.

How do it fix this? Initial thought is to try and somehow redrill it so it sits correctly. Then maybe make a backplate so it won't move around. Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2017, 06:05 PM
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ERushing ERushing is offline
 
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Hi Justin,

My right door turned out OK. For my left door, the bit must have drifted because it was off by quite a bit. I build up a thick doubler to fit inside the channel, drilled a hole to size to fit the plane around rod end and then positioned the doubler so that the door sat where I wanted it. I enlarged the original hole in the channel a bit to have the door positioned where I wanted it.

Kind of an ugly solution but no one will ever see it.

It also looks like I'll have to do a bit of shaping around the cabin top and door with flox and micro to get a nice smooth door fit. They didn't turn out as well as I hoped. But again, with some flox and micro, no one will ever know!
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2017, 06:54 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Thanks Eric, that's my plan as well. I am also using Sean's latch system and pins. The pins seem to fit really tight into a 7/16th hole.
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2017, 07:09 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorJ View Post
Thanks Eric, that's my plan as well. I am also using Sean's latch system and pins. The pins seem to fit really tight into a 7/16th hole.
I bought and used a 7/16 reamer to get the pins (Van's or Sean's) to fit.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2017, 11:09 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Seemingly typical I went out to the garage tonight to get a game plan. Two hours later I had it complete. Some of it was the hole, enlarged it back about a 1/16 of an inch. The other was some trimming I needed to do on the door plate. (Planearound). Took about a 16th off the top part of it and now the door sits decent enough some micro and sanding will smooth it all out. I did also make a double just in case so there wouldn't be any shifting around down the line.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2017, 12:11 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Sidebar question related to the doors. I see some builders choice to make the cabin door opening squared off on the outside vs the bevel that's in there now. Is this just a cosmetic thing or some reason to do that vs leaving the edge beveled.

I'm going for a 3/16th gap and think doing the 90 degree edge might make that easier and more appealing.
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  #7  
Old 05-03-2017, 12:36 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Default my doors

I opted for about that gap and rounded edges. Looks nice and I think will be more durable than beveling the edge to a point. Just my opinion...
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2017, 01:07 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketman1988 View Post
I opted for about that gap and rounded edges. Looks nice and I think will be more durable than beveling the edge to a point. Just my opinion...
The Planearound pin blocks take care of the fore/aft door alignment, so the 45* bevel isn't necessary. With that in mind, I'm going for rounded edges and a 1/8" gap.
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2017, 01:45 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Okay my thought was that the bevel would hold up better, thinking maybe the fiberglass would chip. When measuring the gap are you measuring it at an angle or straight down? If that makes sense...
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2017, 02:06 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Using the flat bevel is the way to keep the gap size to a minimum which most people think ascetically looks the best and would be the least drag (not saying the drag difference would be very large though).
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