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Rear fuselage modifications?

iamtheari

Well Known Member
While I have been looking through the rear fuselage instructions, I got to wondering if anyone has any neat ideas for additions or modifications to the plans.

For example, my PA-28 has an exterior electrical plug for jump starting the plane. It is on the side of the fuselage, behind the baggage door, which is where the battery is located on that plane. Has anyone put something similar on their RV?

Another idea I had is on the static system. Is there anything I can do now that will make life easier for the mechanics who do my IFR static system tests every two years? I've never been present for these checks so I don't know how their equipment normally hooks up with the static system in the plane.

I know that some people have put an OAT probe in the tail. So I know that all sorts of things have been done and I'm looking for ideas in case I decide I really have to have something and it will be easier to do now rather than after joining the front and rear fuselage together. All ideas welcome!
 
Every time you add something to your RV it adds weight quickly. Don't get carried away with extras. As far as jumping plugs they will add a fair amount of weight. The battery location on the RV-14 is on the passenger side on the fire wall. I do not believe in flying with a battery that wouldn't turn over an engine and needed to be boosted. I installed a small plug that is accessible through the oil door , that is fused for a small charger. On the RV-14 , it's very easy to remove the top cowl.
I did upgrade the static system with a Safe Air system for ease of installation and for hopefully a tight system (so far so good,100hrs.)
I installed my OAT probes in the wing for ease of installation.
The only thing I would do different in the tail is I would have installed my own wiring rather than Van's because they have plugs at the baggage bulk head so the wiring can be installed before the mating takes place. I do not like connections where not needed (personnel choice) so I would prefer to climb in back there and install single runs from start to finish. That way when something does not work , it's either at the front or back or you have a broken wire (not likely , usually a connection).
 
I'm leaning strongly toward Garmin. I just couldn't plan out a Dynon system that does what I want for any less than Garmin.
 
I use the same P/S plumbing kits on both Garmin & Dynon installs. The old Safe Air kits (Virtually same as sold by Cleveland & Dynon) super easy to install & I have NEVER had a leak.
 
Thanks for the tips. I looked at the Cleaveland static air kit. I like it. Two questions:

1. Can the existing holes in the RV-14 rear fuselage skins be used with the 1/2" hole for the Cleaveland static ports, or are they too close to a bulkhead?

2. I found old threads talking about installation-related errors in the static system when using the Safe Air kit. Does the Cleaveland kit have those problems, in anyone's experience? (It looks like it protrudes from the skin a bit, which sounded like what the Safe Air kit was lacking that led to inaccuracies. But I am just building this thing, I'm not any kind of a fluid dynamics expert.)

(3. Does anyone want to buy the static air kit that came with my empennage kit? It's new-in-box. :) )
 
Thanks for the tips. I looked at the Cleaveland static air kit. I like it. Two questions:

1. Can the existing holes in the RV-14 rear fuselage skins be used with the 1/2" hole for the Cleaveland static ports, or are they too close to a bulkhead?

2. I found old threads talking about installation-related errors in the static system when using the Safe Air kit. Does the Cleaveland kit have those problems, in anyone's experience? (It looks like it protrudes from the skin a bit, which sounded like what the Safe Air kit was lacking that led to inaccuracies. But I am just building this thing, I'm not any kind of a fluid dynamics expert.)

(3. Does anyone want to buy the static air kit that came with my empennage kit? It's new-in-box. :) )

1. I drilled out the existing holes with step drill and the Cleaveland ports fit just fine. You should double check size- I don't recall them being 1/2", more like 1/4". I scuffed skin where they mount and used epoxy (JBWeld) to hold them in place.
2. Newer versions of the port are reported to be very accurate - good discussion here: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=132813
3. I have the same problem!
 
I also recently installed the Cleaveland ports in my 14 tailcone with no issues. I used Proseal to glue them in. Follow the directions so you don't put adhesive on the inner flange which needs to be flush against the inside surface of the skin to make the vent (which is shaped exactly like Van's pop rivet) protrude the correct amount on the outside of the skin.

I had a Safeair kit on my RV-8A and the airspeed was 5-6 kts low due to the static system error, so I'm hoping the Cleaveland vents perform better. Also I think you can buy just the vents or the whole static system kit including nice quick disconnect fittings. I think it's a great system and given the price point of the -14 (and the fact that most are equipped for IFR) I wish Vans would just include the Cleaveland system with the kit and save us all the hassle...
 
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