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A/F Ratio and Timing Curve

David-aviator

Well Known Member
I've made three flights with the newly installed EFII single electronic ignition and am getting acquainted with it. The system is different from other EI units available in that it is part of larger package, namely electronic fuel injection which can be added later. The timing curve is embedded in an ECU built by Ross Farnham and programmed by Robert Paisley at EFII. The ECU controls fuel injector timing in addition to ignition timing.

www.sdsefi.com/racetech.htm
www.flyefii.com

I went one step beyond what is needed and installed an air/fuel ratio monitor system. Granted it is not the total story re A/F ratio as it monitors #4 only but it is much better than no indication. If EGT's are peaking at nearly same number, the A/F ratio number from #4 will be in the ball park. I also installed the fuel injection programmer and can monitor timing change activity. (plus a raft of other parameters if the total package is installed)

The first thing apparent is full rich mixture (with the AFP horizontal injection system) is very rich at take off power. It is reading 10:1 which I believe is wasting fuel. Yes it cools the engine but how much cooling is needed on a normal day? Same observation on climb. I've started pulling the mixture right after take off to get it to 12:1, the change in fuel consumption is significant.

i"ve done several WOT runs at a DA of 8500' (as computed by the GRT Sport EFIS system) and it appears top speed may be one or two knots more than with 2 magnetos but that is subjective as DA is difficult to determine. I do know engine RPM is at or higher than before running at about 2750. Fuel burn is 12.4 at 100 ROP.

It has been well established over the years, EI shines at higher altitudes. This system will advance to a conservative 30 degrees BTDC and will burn fuel more efficiently with its long spark duration. At this point I estimate CHT is running about 20 degrees warmer than before but that is total estimation as I have no recorded comparable data. My cooling system works well, the max CHT I've seen before doing a similar WOT run was around 390, yesterday I saw 402, the day before 405. Less fuel going out exhaust, higher CHT.

At idle after start, timing is at 15-20. It advances to 30 when setting take off power and then backs off 4 degrees when 28" MP is reached. In climb it begins to advance again as MP decreases.

The engine runs smoother with EI. It starts easily and idles nicely at less than 500 rpm. With a FP prop this low idle setting makes quite a difference in managing speed on final. I usually carry a little power to hold 60-65 knots with 40 flaps. It cuts down on ground effect coasting also. Early in the flight test program idle rpm was about 800, that is way too high. It makes a huge difference in managing speed with a FP prop.
 
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F/A

You should be running around 200 rich of peat at 24 square and 3500 ft. That's about a .085 (11.8 : 1 A/F for you car guys). If your running richer than that at full rich, then either your air inlet is restricted ( what is the WOT MAP compared to ambient at take off?) or you need to change the main jet in the fuel control.

Don
 
You should be running around 200 rich of peat at 24 square and 3500 ft. That's about a .085 (11.8 : 1 A/F for you car guys). If your running richer than that at full rich, then either your air inlet is restricted ( what is the WOT MAP compared to ambient at take off?) or you need to change the main jet in the fuel control.

Don

Thanks for the feed back on mixture, Don. Will make a point of checking MP re static next flight but I do believe it is ok. I am also inclined to believe the main jet in the fuel control is also ok.

The A/F ratio indication may not be reliable - or it is slowly finding its brain. Yesterday if showed 10:1 on a couple take offs, today it was not below 11:1. This is at full rich, about same weather conditions. It did show 15:1 at peak leaning which I believe is normal.

Interesting observation today. With power set to 8 GPH (leaned to peak) TAS was 153 knots at 4,500', 163 at 10,500. This power setting (about 53%) is good for engine life, modest temperatures and decent for cross country.
Vans show 180 mph at 55%, I am coming in at about 184 mph so it was a good day. :)

I have a feeling flying LOP at 12,500' will produce some very nice numbers re fuel burn and TAS.
 
Peak EGT should be around .065 F/A (15.4 : 1 A/F).

I had some flakey O2 reading from a similar system installed on a turbo Rotax project we were involved with. Couldn?t really trust the O2 readings. Never investigated why, might have been goofy wiring in the plane (there was a ton of that, wiring that is) or a bad probe.


Don
 
The first thing apparent is full rich mixture (with the AFP horizontal injection system) is very rich at take off power. It is reading 10:1 which I believe is wasting fuel. Yes it cools the engine but how much cooling is needed on a normal day? Same observation on climb. I've started pulling the mixture right after take off to get it to 12:1, the change in fuel consumption is significant.

You're using a fixed pitch prop, yes? If so, "take off power" is an RPM somewhat below 2700. Do a little experiment. Set full rich, conduct a normal full throttle takeoff with normal climb speed/angle, then when you reach 1000 AGL or so, push over to level flight, and allow speed and RPM to increase without adjusting any engine controls. Watch the digital meter and report what happens.

Don is telling you how to check the calibration and consistency of the AF meter. With the AF meter's wide band sensor in the #4 pipe, lean very slowly to find #4's peak EGT. The meter should show the same AF ratio at peak (15.4 or close) every time. Consistency is something a lot of us are curious about, both flight to flight, and over the long term due to sensor lead poisoning.
 
Checked MP vrs static today, 29.9 before start 29.6 WOT on take off.

That means .3 loss due to filter, probably about normal but don't know for. A/F ratio reading was 12:1 full rich to 15.5:1 leaned out to peak. I think it is working ok.

Had the Catto 3-blade dynamic balanced this morning. It was smooth but now it is more smooth yet. The initial reading was .35 ips, not it is .020.

It is close to Subby smoothness. :)
 
You're using a fixed pitch prop, yes? If so, "take off power" is an RPM somewhat below 2700. Do a little experiment. Set full rich, conduct a normal full throttle takeoff with normal climb speed/angle, then when you reach 1000 AGL or so, push over to level flight, and allow speed and RPM to increase without adjusting any engine controls. Watch the digital meter and report what happens.

Don is telling you how to check the calibration and consistency of the AF meter. With the AF meter's wide band sensor in the #4 pipe, lean very slowly to find #4's peak EGT. The meter should show the same AF ratio at peak (15.4 or close) every time. Consistency is something a lot of us are curious about, both flight to flight, and over the long term due to sensor lead poisoning.

Will do the 1000AGL thing next flight Dan, had to keep an appointment for prop balance this morning.
 
Watch the digital meter and report what happens.

I did it today and have lost complete faith the the A/F reading. It was 54F, the thing read 14.5 running at full rich and did not change except went to 15 when leaned to peak.

The system is not reliable.
 
David,

You may have a problem with your oxygen sensor getting either too hot or fouled with lead. If the tip of the oxygen sensor is exposed to the direct flow of exhaust with 100LL running, the sensors will have a pretty short life.

I used the Innovate Motorsports bung extendor to increase sensor life when running 100LL on the Sube and it greatly extended the life of the sensors. They have little cooling ribs and get the sensor back out of the main exhaust stream. Mine seemed to work fine with the extendor in place.

Summit and Jegs etc. carry them: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/inn-3729?seid=srese1&gclid=CPjJvKfBqMgCFQwwaQodn6MLVg

Randall
 
Well, in for a penny, in for a pound....

May be a poisoned sensor, maybe not. You just installed it, right? Wiring check and manufacturer diagnostics first. If that turns up nothing the only way to continue your experiment is to replace it. If replacement returns it to reasonable accuracy, that's also a data point.
 
Spending another couple hundred bucks for extender and new sensor is pushing my tolerance level for spending more on what may not work anyhow.

I need a hole for a 2.25 VV, the EFIS VV is difficult to read.

I do like the 2.25 Winter Altimeter next to Vans IAS gage, a round VV would be nice also.

EFIS is ok but old round gages are also ok for an old fxxt.
 
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