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  #1  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:12 AM
Drippy Drippy is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Vermont
Posts: 101
Default Insulating rear bulkhead

Guys,
I am sure this has been discussed and I am not searching under the proper heading.

I need to insulate the corrugated panel aft of the baggage compartment. Does anyone have a nice solution to filling the "Vs" without cutting individual slices of foam?

Thanks

Drippy
40644
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  #2  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:26 AM
rleffler's Avatar
rleffler rleffler is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 3,970
Default

I couldn't find any online photos of my RV-10, but it's very similar to what Geoff Combs did in his.

It's basically two pieces of fiberboard. The bottom one is covered with carpet. I also have Geoff's interior panels and carpet installed too. The carpet then is a uniform look with the carpet on the lower side of the baggage area. The top piece is covered in leather with experimental embroidered. The sides are tight with the side panels. This stops any drafts coming through the bulkhead.

It's not really insulation, but I don't think it's needed. This cosmetic upgrade is more than adequate. I fly quite often when it's below freezing. Being cold has never been an issue.

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  #3  
Old 02-08-2017, 02:03 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 5,320
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I bought some aluminum backed felt from Spruce, then cut small strips. They compress enough that they can be forced into the V's against the bulkhead. Stopped the draft.
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  #4  
Old 02-08-2017, 02:31 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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However you end up sealing the bulkhead built in leaks, remember the actual bulkhead and former/frame assembly it is bolted to is a structural setup, and needs to remain strong.

I suggest you DO NOT sandwich anything between the bulkhead and the former it bolts to. Just work on the actual "V" notches.
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

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  #5  
Old 02-08-2017, 04:41 PM
Drippy Drippy is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Vermont
Posts: 101
Default Filling the V

Guys thank you

Thank you for the advice. I have been wondering if I could clamp it to a piece of plywood covered in wax paper and then filling the V's with spray in foam, then putting on a thin layer to protect it.

Anyone try something like that?

Drippy 40644
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2017, 05:48 PM
rvdave rvdave is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 321
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Sounds like a good idea.
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2017, 07:51 PM
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flyboy1963 flyboy1963 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lake Country, B.C. Canada
Posts: 2,350
Default one way

I just recently took some fat, like 3/4" weatherstripping foam, cut individual pieces ( not that hard, took 13 seconds!) and stuck them in each 'vee'.
sliced almost flat with the back surface, so there would be a tiny bit of 'crush' on the foam when mounted, and.........you're done.
invisible, $5, took 10 minutes.

..gained about 3 kts at least!
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RV-9a - SOLD!....
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2017, 08:28 PM
TimO TimO is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 426
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I just did my RV-14 bulkhead this week. I used some 1/2 or 3/4" round weatherstrip, just glued in place in the "V" with some clear RTV. There will still be a very little bit of gap, but you can either leave it or seal it with the same RTV. I let it set up a short time before installing the bulkhead wall. Took it back out tonight and looked at it. Should cut down on some of the cold air coming in.

Now, that said, I did NOT seal off every single one of the corrugations. The reason is, with the high flow available with the air vents, you're going to need somewhere for the air to go. If you seal the bulkhead completely you're just going to make the air vents less effective because there will be nowhere for the air to go, and the same with the heater vents. If you are going to flow high volumes of hot or cold air in, you're going to need it to exit too. Also, on the RV-10 when in flight, the doors are being sucked out with quite a bit of suction from the airflow over the airframe. If you add some additional air pressure inside, you're going to potentially make that worse also.

So, in short, I would definitely NOT recommend sealing the entire baggage wall, but just seal it enough that you minimize the amount of cold air that will come in from the tail. Keep a pathway for the hot/cold air from the front to exit. There are lots of other little places where the air will leak out, into the wing roots by the aileron pushrods, and places like that, but some people also have bellows on those too.

Just things to think about.
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  #9  
Old 02-08-2017, 10:35 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
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Well, I'd say 'it depends'. I tried to seal up all the corrigations in the aft bulkhead, but not into the wing nor tunnel. Air and heat come into the cabin fine, and alternate static open shows the cabin below outside pressure. So the air gets out somewhere.
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  #10  
Old 02-08-2017, 11:57 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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All of you guys that seal up the aft bulkhead, what do you incorporate to let air (vent and heat) out???

If purposely choose to bring air in, you have to have a path to let air out (or it will try and make its own...like door seals, etc.)

If cabin pressure is below static pressure, it is a good indicator of leaking door seals.
Like Tim said, the fuselage sides are curved and have low pressure on the out side.
That is largely the reason for the stock seals (which people love to hate for some reason)... they seal well through a wide range of gap dimension and any slight movement/flex outward of the door in flight.

When people ask me how to fix cold inflow air leaks..... I always tell them to find and seal the outflow leaks.
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Last edited by rvbuilder2002 : 02-09-2017 at 12:08 AM.
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