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F-1029L&R Misalignment with F-1007 and F-1035

1001001

Well Known Member
I riveted F-1029L&R per Page 10-21 Step 3 and when I tried to test fit F1035 (the elevator bellcrank mount) to it, I found a bad misalignment between the holes in F-1035 and the F-1029 pieces, at the aft end. The bellcrank plate and F-1007 were completed by the previous builder of this tail kit. It looks to me as if F-1007 and F-1029L&R were all pre-punched and so I'm at a loss as to why this misalignment is occurring.

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This looks to me to be too much to try to squeeze the 1029 pieces towards each other to make it fit.

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Has anyone else had a similar problem? Any thoughts?
 
For me when the parts did not fit I usually had them upside down. Study things carefully to see if you have them assembled correctly. Van's alum. parts usually fit right on if the builder did not mess anything up (not saying that you did).
 
For me when the parts did not fit I usually had them upside down. Study things carefully to see if you have them assembled correctly. Van's alum. parts usually fit right on if the builder did not mess anything up (not saying that you did).

Good suggestion, although I can't see any way that this piece could be installed upside down (it's not symmetric). Are there any other possibilities? The F-1037B and C appear to be assembled to F-1035 correctly.
 
bellCrank ribs and battery Tray

I am at this part on my build. I read your thread and took my tray that assembled last night and fit it to the bell-crank ribs. I screwed in all #8 fasteners with washers and it fit fine. My kit was ordered in 2013. Sorry I could not be of help.

On my elevators, VANs did ship two end ribs that were not properly manufactured. It does happen.

Is there a torque value for screws? I know about bolts, should I just use the same values as the same size bolt? I know I need to remove these later so I am not too concerned right now.

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I am at this part on my build. I read your thread and took my tray that assembled last night and fit it to the bell-crank ribs. I screwed in all #8 fasteners with washers and it fit fine. My kit was ordered in 2013. Sorry I could not be of help.

Are your bellcrank mount ribs riveted to the bottom skin yet?
 
Yes, bell crank ribs are riveted to bottom skins and to 1007 bulkead

Yes, the ribs are riveted in as of a few days ago. Pictures below.

I would take measurements of the holes and send them to VANs. This tray was never supposed to be match drilled so the first time you would notice a problem is when you go to screw it in, as I just did.

If you want send me the measurements and I may be able cross reference off my parts. Hopefully the tray is wrong and VANs can send a new one since that would be the easiest to replace, assuming your ribs are riveted also.

Good luck

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Yes, the ribs are riveted in as of a few days ago. Pictures below.

I would take measurements of the holes and send them to VANs. This tray was never supposed to be match drilled so the first time you would notice a problem is when you go to screw it in, as I just did.

If you want send me the measurements and I may be able cross reference off my parts. Hopefully the tray is wrong and VANs can send a new one since that would be the easiest to replace, assuming your ribs are riveted also.

Good luck


Thanks. I figured the bulkhead and the ribs were not match drilled, but because I didn't build this part, I wasn't sure. I'll contact Van's about it.

Any chance you could measure the distance between the rear-most holes on your bracket, the corresponding holes in the ribs, and the rivets holding the ribs to F-1007, or take a photo with a ruler in it? I'd greatly appreciate a dimensional comparison to be able to cite to Van's.
 
Seperate the ribs

My ribs were a bit too close together (rib-to-rib: Left-to-Right). I separated them by pulling one out via the lightening holes a bit and inserted matching screws on both sides. Everything other hole lined up after that without any nudging.
 
My ribs were a bit too close together (rib-to-rib: Left-to-Right). I separated them by pulling one out via the lightening holes a bit and inserted matching screws on both sides. Everything other hole lined up after that without any nudging.

Huh, well I tried that before and I couldn't get the holes to line up, but I tried with screws and it worked. I really had to pull them apart with quite a bit of force.
 
off topic, but....?

Huh, well I tried that before and I couldn't get the holes to line up, but I tried with screws and it worked. I really had to pull them apart with quite a bit of force.

Sorry for the quick thread drift, but I'm just so curious I can't help asking the significance of your user name. #73?
 
My ribs were a bit too close together (rib-to-rib: Left-to-Right). I separated them by pulling one out via the lightening holes a bit and inserted matching screws on both sides. Everything other hole lined up after that without any nudging.

Huh, well I tried that before and I couldn't get the holes to line up, but I tried with screws and it worked. I really had to pull them apart with quite a bit of force, more than felt comfortable, but I did get it in place.
 
Curious too

I too am curious about your user name.

Regarding the thread, I did not have to use a lot of force. I would be more concerned if I had to use a lot of force, since most things line up very well . It is possible that the bottom of your skins may be a bit deformed from moving ect. That would cause the top of the ribs to be a bit off. I would guess any deformity rights itself with the tray being mounted and when with the 1006 bulkhead finally get attached.

I am finishing up the attachment of the top skins using a one-man show. I think I can get to every rivet except maybe the middle 2 or 3. It sure does provide my arms a beating from having to get in from the back bulkhead.
 
You're on the right track but you have to go farther down the line...

ASCII 73 = I?

Anyway, it would be very easy to get a little lateral misalignment with those ribs when riveting them in. Wouldn't take much and then they'd be tough to move as those angle pieces make it pretty stiff. Mine were clecoed with the tray in place and then the tray removed for riveting. There was a bit of push to get the ribs in place later but nothing major. If many people are having problems, it might be a good idea to make up some cross spacers to hold the rib spacing without interfering with riveting.
 
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