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  #31  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:45 PM
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rph142 rph142 is offline
 
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Quote:
It would sure be easier to trim the skin before it's riveted to the frame. Anyone have any tips on trimming them after it's riveted?
I had to shorten mine up a bit after riveting. A pair of tin snips and a 36" long sanding bar worked for me.
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  #32  
Old 07-26-2012, 01:37 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Default Stand-Off Brackets For Hinges on Jig

The manual, in Figure 6-1, says to make these 1.5" from base to centerline of the pin. This doesn't give enough room for dimpling tools to get in for the rear spar - at least not mine.

I can't see any harm in making them taller. I don't know what the optimal height would be, but it's got to be greater than 1.5".

Dave
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  #33  
Old 09-21-2012, 10:06 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Default Vertical Stabilizer Spar Dimensions

I put this together to help me locate things. Be careful - the right side is mostly to scale vertically (not horizontally) but the left side isn't.

Dave

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  #34  
Old 10-23-2012, 04:03 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Default Rudder Stiffener Taper

The stiffeners for the rudder, according to the plans, need to be tapered for a length of 2.5 inches. But, as someone already pointed out, that's for the 1/2" stiffener that the plans describe. The actual stiffener that comes with the kit is 5/8 inch, so the dimension ought to be 3 1/8 inches, which is what I cut here. Then it has the same slope, and this is what it looks like if you are using zinc chromate and pro-sealing the stiffeners.



In this photo, the rudder is in its jig but I've put the photo on its side to make it easier to see and the frame is removed.

What I've found is that I can't bend the trailing edge far enough to get a straight rudder surface because the stiffeners touch the opposite skin and prevent that. I checked with the RV-4 preview plans and for that plane, the trim distance is 6 inches. The stiffener for the RV-4 is 5/8 inch so that dimension can be used as is.

It's a lot easier to trim these to 6 inches before they're riveted to the skin, hint, hint, but it can be done afterwards. Takes about an hour. I used snips and the Vixen file. Deburring was interesting.

And sure 'nuff, this allows for a proper bend.

Dave
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  #35  
Old 10-24-2012, 07:38 AM
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KatieB KatieB is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post

It's a lot easier to trim these to 6 inches before they're riveted to the skin, hint, hint, but it can be done afterwards. Takes about an hour. I used snips and the Vixen file. Deburring was interesting.

And sure 'nuff, this allows for a proper bend.

Dave
I did the same thing with the snips & file. It started as an act of desperation, but turned out to be a lot easier than I had imagined!
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  #36  
Old 11-09-2012, 10:20 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Default Elevator Horn Issues

Van's sent me the elevator horn for the RV-4, which is somewhat larger than the one for the RV-3B. They said they would not build the RV-3B one. This has been previously reported. Here's how I dealt with it.

There are two main issues. First, it simply doesn't fit. The V is too wide. Here's a template for the RV-3 part resting on the RV-4 part.



I hack-sawed this to fit, filing it smooth. It wasn't a big deal. This shows the start of a cut.



Here's a comparison:



For reference, here is the RV-3B drawing for this part:



And for the RV-4 part which was included with the kit:



There's one more issue. The horn itself is too long. I propose to build a new bellcrank with the upper arm 5.0625 inches long. This will provide the same control gearing that the RV-3B was designed with. People have complained that with the as-delivered parts, it's on the light side.

Turns out that the bellcrank is one of the very few parts which is pre-punched and cut to final shape. Kind of ironic, eh?

Dave
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  #37  
Old 11-11-2012, 11:58 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Paule View Post
People have complained that with the as-delivered parts, it's on the light side.

Turns out that the bellcrank is one of the very few parts which is pre-punched and cut to final shape. Kind of ironic, eh?

Dave
Nice mod to make it fit Dave.

Just a comment on your last statement - we used the supplied bellcrank and arm lengths for elevator and aileron, and I have never flown an airplane that is more harmonious than our -3. Not sure how you could make it better, but you could make it a lot worse.....so be sure you want to do it before changing things. CG is the easiest way to change the pitch control forces in my experience.

Paul
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  #38  
Old 11-11-2012, 12:26 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Okay, thanks - I'll build it with the supplied bellcrank. It'll be easy enough to replace if I want to once it's flying.

Dave
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  #39  
Old 12-21-2012, 10:59 AM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Default On the Elevator Horns

I should have re-read "27 Years of the RVator." This is discussed on page 67, from 1995. Not exactly a new discovery.

From now on, a New Year's Resolution for 2013 -- don't do anything without checking the Book.

Dave
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  #40  
Old 03-25-2013, 04:46 PM
David Paule David Paule is offline
 
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Location: Boulder, CO
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Default Wing Rib Lightening Holes - Cut 'Em Out

On my wings, many of the holes in the main ribs are not punched out. Got to wondering how the aileron pushrod would ever get through all that aluminum, and checked some photos of other airplanes. Sure enough, they had all the lightening holes cut out.

Andy Hill kindly sent me this response from Van's Support:
"All lightening holes can be cut out so long as there is a reinforcing 'ring' stamped into the rib in that location. Tank ribs are the exception, of course.
"Regards, Scott at Van's"

So now I've got some hole-cutting ahead. I counted 26 holes. I ordered one of those Malco hole-cutting tools. I've also got snips, a very good nibbler (an Adel) and drum sanders. I decided not to use a fly-cutter.

Dave
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