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Hiding The Lead

DanH

Legacy Member
Mentor
Elevator and rudder counterweights have been faired many different ways. Here is a method based on two fiberglass fundamentals:

Good solid corners have a flox core.

The best joint between two laminates is a scarf.

Cross section through the end of the counterbalance arm, looking inboard or outboard:

Empanage%20Tip.JPG
 
Last edited:
perfect

That's exactly what I needed to see. Thanks, Dan!

If I plan to fair the glass and aluminum intersection....should I use crowfoot for the face and span the two pieces? Then can I use the e-glass tape for the rest of the joint since it is not compound curves?

I really appreciate it.

Thanks,
 
Is it acceptable to flox the gaps, but not cover the forward surface/visible lead with fiberglass? I understand that this will not look as good as glassing in the lead, but is there a reason for the glass besides appearance?
 
Flox can be a bit brittle, glass helps it to keep in one piece.

Flox corner and glass cloth really do work well together.
 
Sean, you can use tape for any flat strip layup. I tend to reserve tape use for rough work and limited circumstances (like long strips to build edge thickness inside a cowl), mostly because I despise the selvage edge. Learn to wet fabric between plastic sheets, then cut any shape, width, and weave orientation you desire with a pizza cutter.

Ethan, I guess they've been done every way you can imagine.
 
Outstanding Timing!

Dan,

Couldn't be any better timing seeing this visual aid. Was going to use the flox method between the fairing and lead with a epoxy/micro mix on the face and shape this into contour. Glassing over the top of it with the scarf joint looks more sound and tie's all this together better. Thx

I do have a question that might get some attention;

With the trim tab/motor on the left elevator you need to caution how much lead you remove in shaping the forward face. Once painted you may be out of balance. I notice the right side is just fine with plenty of weight for balancing later.
I need to install the motor to see where I'm at.

My question is, "should I add some shot mixed with epoxy to the inside of the tip-cap before install so I don't hit this problem after paint or is the elevator balancing going to be done pinned with the push-rod there-fore you pick up the added weight from the right elevator"?
Short and simple, Do you balance the elevator(s) individually then together? Thus needing extra weight to balance the left properly free by itself?

TIA,
Bruce Gray
RV8 Fuse
9 yrs. and still building
 
Glass and edges

Dan's method is close to what I'm doing. After prepping the tip glass and blending to the metal, I bond the seam with the glass tape. I am using a 1" wide piece of 6 oz. It has the edge but is quite small and easy to block sand off. Very important to do this because it is metal to glass joint.

Near the weight end, I will cut a strip of cloth 2" wide and wrap around the weight, span wise, not the capped end. On the capped end, I cut a piece approximately, 1/2" oversized. Mark where it begins the arc in several places. Scallop the edge on those mark. It will lay down nicely with the epoxy.

When done, block sand to smooth the cloth, fill and sand to get everything blended nicely.

Don't over think it. The process is quite easy.
 
Dan - Is this video still around? I've got a month to play around with fiberglass before my next kit arrives this thread sounds interesting!
 
Hi Dan,

Are you able to post an updated pic to the above post. Looks like the link to the picture broke. I have a lot of questions on how best to glass in the lead counterweight.

Thanks!
 
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