What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

SJ cowl oil drain access hole?

sbalmos

Well Known Member
Just finished fitting my SJ cowl this past weekend. In the process of looking over the bottom cowl, I was eyeing whether or not to drill an access hole for my quick drain. That way I wouldn't have to drop the cowl to change oil (even more enjoyable considering I have a 3-blade). But projecting the location of the oil hole onto the inside of my cowl, it looks like the access hole would hit right at the bend where the side wall of the exhaust pipe "alcove" meets the body of the cowl bowl, definitely not a good spot.

Has anyone else done a oil drain access hole on the bottom of their cowl, especially an SJ shorty?
 
Just drop the cowl. You need to do a good once-over eyeball inspection on FWF between annuals anyway.
 
Cowl Oil Drain Hole

Hi Scott,

I also have a 9a with the James cowl and a 3 blade prop--I did just what you describe during my build and it saves a GREAT deal of time and hassle. I just marked the center point under the drain on the inside of the cowl. I then determined how big a round opening I needed to get my fat hand into the opening to attach a small hose to my quick drain and then added 1/2" to accommodate a fg flange. Poster board was used to cut out the round form, it was taped to the curved portion of the cowl on the inside centered on the drain point, marked the circumference with a sharpie, and carefully cut the circle out of the cowl--very slowly as you want to use the circle as the cover. I then waxed the inside of the fg circle with a release agent, and used duct tape on the outside of the cowl to reattach the circle back into the same position. Two inches around the hole on the inside of the cowl was prepped for fiberglass. The glass was used to make a flange which extended 1/2" over the edge of the taped in fg circle. I match drilled through the circle and the flange, installed plate nuts on the flange and counter sunk the outside for flush screws (6-#6s). Makes a perfectly flush and easy to remove access point. Let me know if you would like pics--going to the hanger today.

Cheers,

db
 
A compromise you might try: Get a longer drain hose and just drop the lower cowl vs fully removing it from the plane.

Takes a little longer to drain the oil but far less hassle getting the cowl of and on around the 3 blade prop. Plus you get to look around for potential issues.
 
Pics would be useful Dave, thanks. I think I'll just drop the cowl for now and add it to the long list of after-it's-flying improvements.
 
Just drop the cowl. You need to do a good once-over eyeball inspection on FWF between annuals anyway.

+1 for Greg's suggestion. Remove the cowling for every oil change for a good visual inspection. It will at least give you an opportunity to inspect for early signs of leaks, hose chafing, loose nuts or bolts, fuel lines and control linkage,,,,,,. You may catch something early and prevent a very bad situation from happening. Your time spent removing/installing the cowl for an oil change is a small price to pay for the benefits received.
 
Just drop the cowl. You need to do a good once-over eyeball inspection on FWF between annuals anyway.

Plus 2 for this suggestion.

You need to check it over at least every 50 hours!

If getting that cowl off is a pain (I have the SJ short cowl w/ a two blade Catto, I suggest you make the air intake removable, like Dan Horton did. Then you can b reinstall the snout once the cowl is on.
 
Pics

Hi Scott,

Took a couple of pics on the iPhone while at the hanger. PM me an email and I will send direct--I don't have a pic posting service.

Cheers,

db
 
Back
Top