Van's Air Force
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Rudder cable fairings
- Thread starter jlfernan
- Start date
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
Fuel tank sealant (proseal).
RV7Guy
Well Known Member
CS4-4's
I first scuffed the area where the fairing goes + 1/4". Also beveled the edges of the fairing with a file and scuffed the entire thing.
Using the deburring bit I counter sunk the fairings for the CS4-4's. They have a very thin head so it doesn't take much.
I mixed a small quantity of micro filler (West Systems 410) and epoxy and spread it on the fairing. (Not too much) Cleco and rivet.
Use a squeegee and fair the edges of the fairing to the fuselage with the epoxy that oozes out. Add as necessary.
Sand the bevel when completed and fill as necessary for a super clean look.
Hey, everything helps when the Avgas is $4 +.
jlfernan said:
I first scuffed the area where the fairing goes + 1/4". Also beveled the edges of the fairing with a file and scuffed the entire thing.
Using the deburring bit I counter sunk the fairings for the CS4-4's. They have a very thin head so it doesn't take much.
I mixed a small quantity of micro filler (West Systems 410) and epoxy and spread it on the fairing. (Not too much) Cleco and rivet.
Use a squeegee and fair the edges of the fairing to the fuselage with the epoxy that oozes out. Add as necessary.
Sand the bevel when completed and fill as necessary for a super clean look.
Hey, everything helps when the Avgas is $4 +.
Sam Buchanan
been here awhile
I don't recall (been nearly nine years now
) but probably 3's. Gluing the fairings to the fuse is probably the most elegant method, but three or four of whatever rivets you have nearby (driven or pulled) will work well, too.Update: I just glanced back at the page that describes my quickly fabbed homemade fairings and it looks like I used some of the pulled rivets that came with the kit:
http://thervjournal.com/fuse8.html
Last edited:
Another Cool Idea.....
I was looking at a new RV-10 project the other day, and the builder said he was going to mount the fairings from the INSIDE - this leaves just a little bit of the fairing sticking out of the hole, and the flange is hidden....I couldn't think of a reason this wouldn't work, and it sure would be a bit "trick".....
Dang, there are so many good ideas out there....
I was looking at a new RV-10 project the other day, and the builder said he was going to mount the fairings from the INSIDE - this leaves just a little bit of the fairing sticking out of the hole, and the flange is hidden....I couldn't think of a reason this wouldn't work, and it sure would be a bit "trick".....
Dang, there are so many good ideas out there....
FlyerJumper
Well Known Member
Before you do this, check out Deems Davis' experience with this:Ironflight said:
Now I have no idea if it'll work or not, but remembered that he had problems, so I thought I'd bring it up.
On another note, we attached ours fairings with screws. We don't have the cables run through them yet, but the idea is for them to be removable so the cables could be replaced if they ever needed to be.
Anyway, lots of idea's out there...
That's a good point Mark - there are always things down the road waiting to bite us when we make mods. In this case, I'm wondering if you installed the cables before putting the fairings, would there be a problem? There is probably something really simple that I'm missing .... and that wouldn't' be the first time!
Paul
Paul
Captain_John
Well Known Member
I am installing my fairings farther forwward than Jeff showed above for ease of maintenance.
The cable end (IMHO) needs to be able to fit through the hole without removing the plate. This will ease maintenance of the cable, should it require removal.
I am not building a plane that is difficult to fix... because I am the one who will be doing the fixin!
CJ
The cable end (IMHO) needs to be able to fit through the hole without removing the plate. This will ease maintenance of the cable, should it require removal.
I am not building a plane that is difficult to fix... because I am the one who will be doing the fixin!
CJ
Me too:FlyerJumper said:
The fairing covers the big screw head and is itself secured by flush 4-40 screws. The screws go into nutplates on a nut-ring that is held in by the big screw. A little confusing but a picture should help:
It added a few extra hours of work but I think it looks very "trick".
mcb
Good plan. I ran the cables, attached mine with rivets, and the use fiberglass to fair them into the skin. Looks nice. But if I ever have to replace a rudder cable, I'm either looking at major surgery to the skin, or more likely putting the end on the cable AFTER I run it out the fairing. While that's not terribly difficult, if it happens I'll wish that I had used screws.FlyerJumper said:
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
FlyerJumper
Well Known Member
Matt,
I noticed you've got a nutplate dead-center in the front. Is there any interference with the rudder cable? I know a -10 builder who did this same thing and had to relocate that nutplate.
Also, a curiosity question... why the nut-ring? Why not just attach the nutplates to the skin?
Looks good!
I noticed you've got a nutplate dead-center in the front. Is there any interference with the rudder cable? I know a -10 builder who did this same thing and had to relocate that nutplate.
Also, a curiosity question... why the nut-ring? Why not just attach the nutplates to the skin?
Looks good!
Here's a thousand-word picture:FlyerJumper said:
The forward nutplate is in line with the snap bushing, and the screw doesn't touch it (although it's hard to tell in this photo).
I decided to use a nut ring after contemplating trying to buck those rivets behind the J-stiffener. A little piece of 0.020" to rivet the nutplates to seemed like it would be easier, and weighs very little.
You can also see where I drilled a sixth hole that didn't work out, due to being too close to the stiffener to get a nutplate behind. It's covered up on the outside by the fairing... so now only you, me, and everyone else with a computer knows about it.
cheers,
mcb
P.S. Note dead moth for ballast - necessary to compensate for heavy CS prop...?
FlyerJumper
Well Known Member
Ahhh... very nice! The -10's are a bit different in their arrangement. I didn't realize the big screw you mentioned was the clamp screw (-10's don't have those. The clamp is on an angle mounted to the bulkhead). Nice ingenuity... thanks for the description.mburch said:
