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Looking for a good torque wrench

NorthernRV4

Well Known Member
Looking for some advice on a good small 1/4" drive inch-pound torque wrench for my project. I note some types indicate values as low at 20 in-lb but how accurate are they really at the complete bottom end of their scale??

Would a beam style like this one be preferred for aviation use where a 10-32 bolt requires 20-25 in-lb of torque (yes I know I need to add the break out torque of the nut but still a rather low value) I don't want to waste my money, or worse yet use a tool that isn't giving me the correct result.

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Short answer is YES. I have two beam torque wrenches, one in lb-in and one in lb-ft. Also have a 1/4" click type, 3/8" click type and 1/2" click type. I use them all on various fasteners. Beam type are great for some applications and click type great for others. For small fasteners you can't go wrong with the beam type you're showing in the picture.
 
I bought a small beam wrench and used it on my tail kit, and will likely use it on all the hardware for the wing kit (except for the actual wing mounting bolts of course).

Its a 0-60 inch/lbs wrench and it works great. Just remember to add whatever preload tension those nylon lock nuts have to your torque value as called out in section 5. The nice thing about a beam wrench is that you can read the value as the bolt threads go through the nylon and that will give you a good value to add to the required torque.

They are relatively cheap. I bought this one on Amazon for like $35 and its well made: http://amzn.to/2tjokU7
 
Thanks gents, that's kinda what I thought. I have a large 3/8 click type and I will probably get a small 1/4" drive one eventually but for the small fasteners I'll go with a beam style mainly because, as CubedRoot pointed out, one can easily read the break out torque of the nylock nut as you torque it. The only downside I can see is they are a little bulky and may be tough to use in some areas.
 
Hope I'm not stating what's obvious to you, but if you're new to torque wrenches, never forget to 'go to zero' on click type wrenches after every session. If you don't, they'll go out of calibration fairly quickly (ask me how I know...). Not a problem with beam type wrenches; they go to zero after every use.

Charlie
 
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I have the exact one that you posted in the pic above. I also bought a fancy CDI from amazon that was over $100 and I matched them up and set the CDI to 20 in-lbs to see if they were the same. Yep, CDI released when it read 20 in-lbs on the beam style. I would not hesitate to use the beam style.
 
The really nice thing about a beam wrench is it never needs to be calibrated. Just look to see if the pointer is at "O".... if not, add or subtract the error.

I use my beam wrench to confirm the accuracy of my click wrenches. The beam wrench has a much smaller head and does really well with spark plugs. If you can see the scale, use it.
 
I ended up ordering the CDI 1501MRMH from Amazon for a decent price. Nice to know it's accurate at the bottom end of it's range. Yes, setting the wrench to zero when not in use is the proper method to maintain accuracy.

Looking forward to getting this new tool. Now for a set of crowfoot flare nut wrenches.
 
I ended up ordering the CDI 1501MRMH from Amazon for a decent price. Nice to know it's accurate at the bottom end of it's range. Yes, setting the wrench to zero when not in use is the proper method to maintain accuracy.

Looking forward to getting this new tool. Now for a set of crowfoot flare nut wrenches.

That is the same "fancy" one that I purchased. You will like it!
 
Have you considered a Torque Screwdriver? Down in the single and low double-digit torque values they are easy to use and do not require the "swing radius" of a wrench. I bought an adjustable one that was mentioned in one of these forums. Made in next door in Georgia as I recall. May have been from Spruce?

Thanks all for the "go-to-zero" tip. Hadn't seen or heard that one. It'll be first on the list at the field today.
 
I have two Proto's, love 'em both. Only thing I'm not a huge fan of with the smaller dial-type one is it doesn't ratchet. Not a big inconvenience though.
 
CDI torque wrench

I have several CDI clicker torque wrenches. They make snap on torque wrenches as well but if you buy the CDI version it is about half the cost with the exact same tolerances and warranties. Also just curious why some people say that the scale type wrenches do not need to be calibrated, can the internals not wear out like anything else mechanical.
 
You're technically correct; all torque wrenches are required to be *checked* for calibration periodically, if used in a regulated environment. But the beam type wrenches don't really have any moving parts to wear. The bar of the wrench itself is the only thing that bends, and in normal use, it should never bend enough to fatigue or be stressed enough to permanently deform. It always 'goes to zero' after every bolt is torqued, so it should never 'take a set', or permanent deformation.

The more elaborate beam wrenches that have a dial instead of a scale on the handle might be a different story, but I've never owned one of those.
 
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