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  #1  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:22 AM
Norcalrv7 Norcalrv7 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: McKinleyville CA
Posts: 249
Default Strip and repaint?

As my never ending RV-7A project continues on, I find myself trying to find the happy medium of having a nice, but functional plane. When I aquired the plane, it already had some damage history. It was originally painted with a tri coat pearl white automotive paint. I will admit that it looks awesome, but unfortunately matching the color on the repairs is nearly impossible. I am disappointed with the color match on a recently repainted cowling, that even used the same left over paint as the original. The automotive paint shop has even made several modified test sprays to get it as close as possible.

I have a outer wing panel that was repaired, and not prepped correctly. It has corrosion starting under the edges of the repainted section. I'm going to need to do something with it soon. The idea of removing a wing to strip and paint ( with un matching paint) makes me sick.

I find myself contemplating the idea of a complete strip and repaint with a more standard color, and single stage paint. My plane has always been on the heavy side. It's well equipped with a CS prop, IFR panel etc, but I'm also convinced there is a significant amount of weight in the 4+ layres of primer, base coat, pearl, clear, plus whatever paint was applied over the top of other paint during repairs. There might be some significant weight savings possible.

Any thoughts or advice here? What has someone actually paid for a strip and repaint of an RV?

Caleb
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:28 AM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 974
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Having done a strip and repaint myself, I'm convinced that 80% of a repaint cost is the stripping! I never want to do that again! ( and this was using the new pink peroxide based stripper, not the flesh melting methyl chloride!)

I think if you can get a fairly close match, repaint the one wing if absolutely necessary, and learn to live with the "awesome, but hard to match" paint. I doubt there is a lot of weight savings to be had by a paint do-over. A basecoat/clearcoat system does not have to be "heavy". Basecoat is quite thin if done properly (don't flood the basecoat!).

If cost is no object, then have a good shop repaint to your liking. It's your plane after all.
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Venice, FL
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2018, 03:16 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,142
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I don't have any actual advice. But my neighbor rebuilt an -8 a couple of years ago, and another pilot friend who owns a couple of body shops came over to help out with finishing (actually, insisted on doing the paint job). I watched him 'test strip' a section of the fuselage with the stuff they use in auto body repair. He brushed it on about a 1 sq ft section, waited about 10 minutes, and I watched as the paint virtually removed itself. It curled up in balls & strips, and when he gently ran a plastic scraper over the area, it just fell off, leaving what looked like fresh, unpainted aluminum. (Gotta wonder if serial killers know about the stuff...)

I've always dreaded any kind of stripping operation, but I guess I've never had the Right Stuff. :-)

Anyway, I still dread any stripping job, but I know who to ask if I want to make the job less painful.

Charlie
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2018, 06:22 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
I watched him 'test strip' a section of the fuselage with the stuff they use in auto body repair. He brushed it on about a 1 sq ft section, waited about 10 minutes, and I watched as the paint virtually removed itself. It curled up in balls & strips, and when he gently ran a plastic scraper over the area, it just fell off, leaving what looked like fresh, unpainted aluminum.
That would be dichloromethane, available at your local Home Depot as Jasco Premium Paint and Epoxy Remover. Works great.

Keep away from fiberglass and other non-metallic parts. Never pour into a plastic cup. Wear a carbon respirator and two layers of disposable nitrile gloves, work outside. Quick and easy job if you're careful, very little mess.
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:56 AM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Posts: 1,034
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Caleb-

Give me a call today sometime, I'll PM my #.
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2018, 12:12 PM
Timberwolf Timberwolf is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Navarre, FL
Posts: 272
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I'm keeping a close watch on this thread as I plan on stripping my fuse to repaint. My wings are already bare so I'm half way there. There's some other cool methods out there such as lasers and strobes to strip it easily and efficiently. Unfortunately the price barrier to acquire such systems puts them out of reach for all but big companies.
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